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| "KRS/GT" Tires Different tire-brands and suggestions |
| >>>>Vendor Sign Up | | Want to see your name in neon blue?<<<< |
| View Poll Results: What will be the result of running a tire "backwards" (ie against the arrow)? | |||
| Definately needs correction before usage |
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50 | 35.21% |
| It will not make any difference on wet or dry |
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3 | 2.11% |
| It will only effect handling in wet conditions |
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26 | 18.31% |
| I don't know, I was never stupid enough to end up in this situation |
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63 | 44.37% |
| Voters: 142. You may not vote until 'registered'. Please go here: http://www.i-bmw.com/register.php | |||
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Thread Tools.. | Display Modes |
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#51
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Re: Odd Questions - Tire Mounting
If all you look at is the speed rating, you are fine until you use the brakes. Most people never think about how heavily they are loading the front tire, during hard braking. On my K12GT I'm looking at loading the front tire up to about 900 pounds peak weight during hard braking, when riding one up. Since the front tire is only rated for 520 pounds max load, I try to avoid situations where I might have to brake hard. When you buy a new front tire, do you make sure you are buying a tire that can handle the full weight of bike, passengers and cargo during braking? If not, you are probably exceeding the tire's rating. Likewise if you run less than the tire manufacturer's recommended max load psi in the tire, it is likely being overloaded even during mild braking.
Doing a 'stoppie' puts more weight on the front tire than the total combined weight of bike, riders & cargo. If I recall correctly, it's possible to reach a peak load of double that combined weight, just before losing control and tumbling over the front end, but I no longer recall the math necessary to calculate various loads at different angles of stoppie. I think that double weight peak would occur when a straight line originating at the contact patch and passing through the combined center of mass, is at an elevation of 45 degrees. Depending on rider/cargo weight distribution, that may happen as early as when the rear tire is only elevated 10 degrees. The same factors apply to the rear tire weight load, during acceleration and wheelies. Do you still think you are not exceeding your tire ratings? regards, Joe |
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#52
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Re: Odd Questions - Tire Mounting
Quote:
The extra forces will still apply horizontal stresses to the tire, increasing heat, strain, etc. I'm sure a good motorcycle can decelerate in a straight line at a rate approaching the acceleration of gravity (32 ft/s/s which would be about 2.75 seconds from 60 mph to 0), so that might be where your "double" figure comes from, but the horizontal deceleration and weight (vertical) on the tire act in separate planes. Quote:
I'm not disagreeing with you, just letting my inner nerd out for some exercise. I'm open to correction from any physics types out there.
__________________
'03 K12RS '94 R11RS (for sale) ![]() '86 urq Eric R. |
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#53
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Re: Odd Questions - Tire Mounting
I'll bite. Why do you ignore a manufacturer's recommendations and intentionally mount your tires backward? What problem are you trying to solve by reversing the tire?
Quote:
__________________
George '09 Triumph Daytona 675 (my first non-BMW since the K75S) '08 K1200S tricolor '92 K75S (approaching 20 years of 3 cylinder love) |
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#54
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Re: Odd Questions - Tire Mounting
Quote:
Now that is an interesting idea..... How about to even out left side tire wear? I still have a decent amount of rubber down the center of my rear tire. I think I could get another 20-25% mileage out of my tires that way . |
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#55
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Re: Odd Questions - Tire Mounting
The manufacturers say, "There is more probability of tire ply separation" if the tires are run to the reverse of the recommended direction. Personally I don't see any possible advantage to doing this. Why tempt fate? Does anyone know of any CONFIRMED logical or sane reason for doing this? Show me.*************************MdMn********
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Mudman k1200GT-'07 |
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#56
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Re: Odd Questions - Tire Mounting
I have deliberately reversed my front tire on my Honda Hornet several times. From hard braking I assume, the front starts trying to cup, with the tread blocks getting sharp on one side and rounded on the other. When I notice this I flip the wheel and leave the correct spacer with the fork legs it mates too. Cold, heat, rain, and dirt roads, I can not tell any difference except, I pick up 3K extra miles before I'm to the bars. I never go past the wear bars. I think the arrow is more for liability protection then actual harm, on a street tire. I ride my bikes like I paid for them and riding over my head is taboo on the streets.
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