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"KRS/GT" Technical Q&A K1200RS/GT Technical Questions/Answers

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  #1  
Old 03-29-2018, 09:35 AM
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RSurrection

Hi guys,

Some history: I've been researching this bike as well as the newer slant 4 inline ones for a few years (while I rode the crap out of a R1150GSA) and had finally settled on the brick RS. After many bikes seen, I bought one with the dreaded o-ring leaking for very cheap. I wanted to buy a bike in very good condition but being a bit OCD, even if I spent more on a bike, I'd always worry about the seals, so I just accepted the option of purchasing a bike with a leak and going through everything. The previous owner had the leak, spent a lot of money to change the clutch and renew the o-ring only to have it leak again in a few days. I took advantage of this and made him an aggressive offer that he took - he just wanted it gone as nobody in this part of the world knows how to work on these bikes. Interestingly, the clutch didn't slip during the test ride no matter how I tried to provoke it... but it gets renewed anyways.

The plan: to have a perfect-technical-condition-bike that is dedicated to highway use, I also wanted to fix everything I didn't like in the bike and will be replacing a few parts.
As for looks, I'd either make it look teenager-ish (I'm only 44), everything black with a green front wheel or go for a "gentleman's bike" looks - early double style stripes, r32-like (very small ones, only on the side panels) with serif-font bmw roundels. I don't yet know and I don't really care at this point which way I'll go. I also wanted to remove the ABS completely as it was only bypassed


and get rid of the alarm too. Many other little things too that I'll be posting pictures of.

The right now: When I pulled the bike apart I saw that the idiots that worked on it previously had put 2 o-rings?!?! Hopefully, that's the only reason for the new leak.


ruining a brand new clutch!


I just finished the main seal

but can't proceed because I am waiting for the new brushes for the starter and alternator. Mine are at 50% and the bike is at around 55 000 kms/ 34 000 miles. Is there any point of replacing them that early (I don't want to go back there any time soon)?

What concerns me going forward:

- the ABS removal - I don't need these wires, right?


- the alarm - mine looks like an early OEM version (bike is model year 2002) but still different than everything I've seen while researching - I may need some help there at the end. I can always ride the bike as I haven't destroyed the alarm yet but want it gone.

- the freaking pivot pins and bolts -

I had difficulty removing them and since I plan to keep the bike for a long time I don't want to put them back on clean and dry - I really want to put copper grease but what would that mean for the torque settings - lower them by 25%, by 40%? This worries me because I want to be able to remove them easy next time. What do you say?

Also, while I waited for parts I decided to fix a few things on the instruments panel. I wanted to put LEDs for the background lights but keep normal bulbs for the rest, just renew them. I also wanted to make the ABS and SET lights look blank but not completely blacked-out. I didn't want the high-beam blue light so bright so I put a 3M filter on its back side and put foam rings in the dials as the light leak from the sides was driving me crazy and it looked like a Chineese copy of a good design. Here is the final result







Best,
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  #2  
Old 03-29-2018, 09:40 AM
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Re: RSurrection

In for the pictures! Keep posting, this is going to be great.
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:48 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Great write up - once you get it all sorted you will be good to go for a good long time. And yes keep the report and pics coming please.
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:45 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Since the bike is apart, may as well replace all the dry rotted rubber bits!
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Old 03-30-2018, 01:33 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Had to cut my swingarm out years ago.Pins wouldn't come out.

Lanocote on all them threads now.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/fores...ibitor--129975

25% less torque is about right unless you want to split a few ft/lb? I could check my notes in the manual?

Nothing ever came loose in over 100Ks and sure makes for an easy removal of the swingarm.Paintmarks on everything for roadside visual checks?Torque wrench or not,all my fasteners consistently go back to my paint marks.

Good call on removing the alarm.Even off it keeps a parasitic load on the battery.Maybe even more of a load that the now old internal batteries of the alarm may need a constant charge.

Snip snip as I followed the wiring into the electrical box.There is(should be) a shunt in there where the alarm connects to the bike's electrical system.Was just a matter of unshunting. Mine was a dealer's installed version but yours should wired the same?I don't remember seeing a different main wiring harness in the parts fiche between the alarmed or not from the factory?

I'll look....I may have the dealer's instructions on how to install the alarm.There are 2-3-4(?) versions of that alarm but the wiring is pretty well the same.
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Old 03-30-2018, 02:38 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Pins and pivots. They had loctite on them that requires heat to break down and allow removal of the fastener. But as you say someone worked on it so who knows what was in there. I suggest you go with very clean and dry. If you use a quality neversieze 15-20% reduction will be enough on the high torque fasteners. These are not set and forget. You should re adjust every 50,000 kilometers. Check the threads in the drive shaft housing to make sure they were not trashed in the removal process. Use a Viton O-ring. Measure the depth of each seal you remove. Do some searching on here about ABS removal and what electronics you need to keep to make the bike function.
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Old 03-30-2018, 06:39 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Hi beam blue light.So annoying....I lowered the bulb wattage some to fix that annoyance.
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Old 04-02-2018, 10:04 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Thank you for your replies and advice!

One brand new clutch


New pads, all brake lines are new too, and speedbleeders - I can ride with speedbleeders without worrying, right?


What do you think about this as a front wheel, I have it left over from a previous project (it's from a R1150 Rockster)?

will it be too Kawasaki-like? The bike is all black with perfect grey wheels but there's high chance that I destroy the front wheel during my first summer. The roads here are terrible, my GSA never had problems and the K will spend 95% on the highways but still.... I want to get used to the bike with a "disposable" front wheel and if it gets bent I can go back to the original one... wow I can't believe I care so much about a bike I've ridden 30 minutes....

Regarding the pivot pins and bolts - I have the bmw never seez, Staburags, Optymoly, Honda Moly, and copper grease, I guess I'll use the bmw never seez and reduce the torque values by 25 %, then mark the bolts and monitor them in the first few weeks.

About the alarm - that's the only thing I fear because I don't understand it yet - I will post pictures of the connectors just in case someone here can help and then dive into the wiring diagrams.
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:17 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by ilian
Thank you for your replies and advice!

I can ride with speedbleeders without worrying, right?

Yes, no worries, I've had my bike equipped with them for years, just check for leaks after your first ride.

As for the wheel, use it or have it powder coated to match, just take car mounting the rotors as the mounted "pads" should not have any paint or powder coat on them so as to not cause misalignment.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product!
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:24 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by CJS350
Yes, no worries, I've had my bike equipped with them for years, just check for leaks after your first ride.

As for the wheel, use it or have it powder coated to match, just take car mounting the rotors as the mounted "pads" should not have any paint or powder coat on them so as to not cause misalignment.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

yes, I have experience with painting wheels - I got two sets on my GSA - spoke wheels with TKC80's and alloy wheels with road tires.

As for the color - I have always restored bikes to factory design/looks and just this one time I want to leave something "mine" on it - I'll go with the green front wheel for this season and then the next year I'll go back to the grey wheel with some very small retro hints... I'll show it here first, I promise!
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:37 AM
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Re: RSurrection

That green will definitely be yours!

Good report and pics!

Very interesting!
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:54 AM
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Re: RSurrection

I had two of them Speedbleeders leak.Rear one first and sure made a mess that one.One front was seeping a little later.And both seeped at the internal valve.

They were in my box for years before I installed them.I shouldn't have.

How long before they failed?I can't tell you exactly but my yearly milleage on my old K1200G/S is up there.
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Old 04-02-2018, 02:29 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Stronger front wheel?

I was told years ago that one can fit the LT front wheel on an RS.

Built stronger to accomodate the extra weight of the LTs but can be retrofitted to an RS.

Heavier built? 13.73Lbs as per the parts fiche is front wheel weight for the RS/GTs. 15.99lbs for the LTs.
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:06 PM
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Re: RSurrection

it's not a stronger wheel, just a spare I had left over from a previous project...

I don't want a stronger/heavier wheel, just don't want to ruin the original one as I haven't had a fast bike in 10 years and I do plan on doing a lot of stupid things this summer....

if I may borrow a line from a man I respect:
we do what they call 'sport-touring' - a code name for riding powerful motorcycles over extreme distances at illegal speeds in semi-constant state of alarm and discomfort
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:13 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbegin@burton
I had two of them Speedbleeders leak.Rear one first and sure made a mess that one.One front was seeping a little later.And both seeped at the internal valve.

They were in my box for years before I installed them.I shouldn't have.

How long before they failed?I can't tell you exactly but my yearly milleage on my old K1200G/S is up there.

that's a problem.

can I use the speedbleeders for an easy fluid bleed and then replace them with the original ones without losing fluid?

i.
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:53 AM
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Re: RSurrection

If you're quick about it, ought not to lose much & not be any big deal..yet I'm running speeders on the nose of the GT & have no issues leave'n 'em. Have the stock one in the tail.

Keep an eye on 'em..do believe that the main reason they might leak, is over tighten, or possible corruption of the sealant that comes already on the threads.
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Old 04-11-2018, 06:00 AM
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Re: RSurrection

While waiting for parts, I took a four-day trip, here are two pics, the first one is from an artificial lake built by the communists, in the process, a few villages disappeared on the bottom of the lake and this is the only thing that remains from them, the church is half submerged most of the year...


The second one is from northern Greece, quite flat and boring compared to the rest of the country.


Also, guess what that is:
https://youtu.be/aKAVzhD_FDg

Tonight, we continue with the brick....
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:09 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by ilian
Also, guess what that is:
https://youtu.be/aKAVzhD_FDg

Tonight, we continue with the brick....

A spaceship! Here to take the enlightened back home.
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Old 04-11-2018, 12:10 PM
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Re: RSurrection

That green is IMHO heinous... the original rim color is just fine.

Color scheme... Sure, why not do the "toaster tank with white striping". Very traditional. But, again IMHO, it won't really work for the KRS. There are too many seams that would need striping and the result, yet again IMHO, would be just plain wrong. It's not a toaster bike, it's "other".

Were I to do a paint job, I'd go with the Formula 1 John Player or Norton Commando look: black with gold striping and gold lettering as needed. If you go for the Batmobile look, black, red striping, expect to be struck by lightning for this truly heinous idea.

Blocking the blue LED - what sort of "3M filter" is in there? Ditto for the SET light.

Don't use LED's for neutral and charge lights. BMW, for reasons I don't understand, tied the alternator sense lead and neutral switch together (see Clymer). The result is neutral comes on when not in neutral. DAMHIK The reason why LED's don't work is the original lamp draws enough current to avoid the problem. The LED doesn't have anywhere near the same load. This can be "fixed" by adding a resistor (I forget the value). But... the wattage (~4W) that has to be dissipated is high enough to need a honking big ceramic monster or one with an aluminum heat sink. Not a good thing.
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Old 04-11-2018, 01:17 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by ilian
Thank you for your replies and advice!

One brand new clutch


New pads, all brake lines are new too, and speedbleeders - I can ride with speedbleeders without worrying, right?


What do you think about this as a front wheel, I have it left over from a previous project (it's from a R1150 Rockster)?

will it be too Kawasaki-like? The bike is all black with perfect grey wheels but there's high chance that I destroy the front wheel during my first summer. The roads here are terrible, my GSA never had problems and the K will spend 95% on the highways but still.... I want to get used to the bike with a "disposable" front wheel and if it gets bent I can go back to the original one... wow I can't believe I care so much about a bike I've ridden 30 minutes....

Regarding the pivot pins and bolts - I have the bmw never seez, Staburags, Optymoly, Honda Moly, and copper grease, I guess I'll use the bmw never seez and reduce the torque values by 25 %, then mark the bolts and monitor them in the first few weeks.

About the alarm - that's the only thing I fear because I don't understand it yet - I will post pictures of the connectors just in case someone here can help and then dive into the wiring diagrams.

That clutch is a very familiar site to me. Buttoning mine up now, hopefully everything works out for the both of us!
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Old 04-11-2018, 01:25 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by CJS350
Yes, no worries, I've had my bike equipped with them for years, just check for leaks after your first ride.

As for the wheel, use it or have it powder coated to match, just take car mounting the rotors as the mounted "pads" should not have any paint or powder coat on them so as to not cause misalignment.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

I have had speed bleeders in mine for over a year now with no issues either
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Old 04-12-2018, 05:04 PM
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Re: RSurrection

about the stripes, I was thinking about something small, like this:


but you are right, now that I'm playing with this in photoshop - I don't like the initial idea and this certainly isn't the bike for this... so it's going to be pure black with the green front wheel the first season and then back to original grey front wheel.

about the 3M filter, I went to a shop that does dark foils for car windows and got a small roll for a few bucks, I couldn't tell you the type or specs.

progress so far on the rear end: viton o-ring (brown - is this normal?), main seal, clutch, transmission seals everywhere, slave cylinder - all new. Also fixed the gear indicator sensor and some other electrical items that were left by the ABSectomy - I don't need the front speed sensor, right? The speedo get the info only from the rear one?


best,
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Old 04-12-2018, 05:49 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Viton can be brown.
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:44 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Gotit about the 3M filter. I was thinking "the stuff coffee runs through???"

Y'know, given your sample of the "toaster" paint and striping, if that's about all that's striped, that's no half bad. But a green wheel with that? {/ shudder ]
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Old 04-13-2018, 02:16 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by RBEmerson
Gotit about the 3M filter. I was thinking "the stuff coffee runs through???"

Y'know, given your sample of the "toaster" paint and striping, if that's about all that's striped, that's no half bad. But a green wheel with that? {/ shudder ]


haha, no, it was either going to be pure black with green front wheel or the small stripes with the grey wheel - two different ideas.

As for the 3M filter - I'll take a picture of it tonight and post it - I think the back side may have something written on it that may be helpful to someone...
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Old 04-13-2018, 12:22 PM
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Re: RSurrection



I put electricians tape over the end of the wires, then made a Plexiglass cover for the unit and sealed the Plexiglass cover with RTV sealant. Then wrapped the whole contraption in a truck tire inner tube to keep it dry and vibration resistant. It's easy enough to unwrap and take a look at things to make sure no moisture is getting inside. I kept the wires instead of cutting them off in the event that some enterprising future owner may want to restore the bike.
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Old 04-13-2018, 03:00 PM
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Re: RSurrection

thanks for all your input!

very little progress today as I was busy at work, only the air filter box and the intake section (new screw clamps and rubber caps there) - it was very dirty and took a lot of cleaning as the PO had really overfilled the bike with oil and it was a big sticky mess there...

I took a picture of the foil I used as a filter for the instrument lights but there's no point posting it - it only says:

ORACAL Transparent Cal 8300 - ORAFOL
www.orafol.com
www.orafolamericas.com

Unfortunately, I am in training over the weekend but I'm getting close.
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Old 04-18-2018, 04:58 AM
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Re: RSurrection

She's alive, ALIVE!

Last night, after working for 40 hours in the garage non-stop, she fired right up from first attempt, so the alarm has been eliminated successfully! I had to play a bit with the wiring as my version didn't seem to be well documented - only the fuel pump was switched on/off by the alarm/immobilizer. I also made many fixes on other components, will be posting pictures soon. I think the cooling and the suspension were the only two systems I didn't work on.

Last night I let the bike warm up until the fans kicked in and turned it off. If there are no leaks in the next 2-3 weeks, I'll be very motivated to finish this project. So far, it was about the way the bike worked, now it'll be about the way it looks.

Is it normal that my wife is happier than me about the bike (she hadn't seen me much in the last month)?
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:47 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Hello. I very much like what you did to the RS. Can you tell me about the foam rings you placed around the tach and speedo? Also, what year is your GS and how many miles do you have on her?

Thank you, Again - nice job. Joe
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Old 04-23-2018, 01:25 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jnovak01
Hello. I very much like what you did to the RS. Can you tell me about the foam rings you placed around the tach and speedo? Also, what year is your GS and how many miles do you have on her?

Thank you, Again - nice job. Joe

The foam rings were cut out of a cheap sleeping pad (approx 7mm thick) you can find in camping gear stores. Don't use glue in there, the body and the front cover of the instrument panel will press it well enough so that glue isn't necessary.

The GS is 1150 Adventure, model year 2005 for Europe/2006 for US market. The last one, in white and blue. I'm never selling this bike but it's slow compared to the KRS.
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Old 04-23-2018, 02:17 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Here's a complete list of what I did to the bike and some pix:

- main seal
- clutch housing Viton o-ring and hex nut
- clutch slave cylinder with new washers
- transmission new seals everywhere


- alternator - new brushes and rubber dampers
- starter - new brushes and o-ring set
- one pivot pin was replaced


- new brake pads and new SS lines front and rear - speedbleeders are junk! went back to the originals, new brake fluid (obviously)
- new inlet caps, the old ones were cracked
- new oils everywhere
- HID low beam - how do I adjust the high beam? I'm still waiting for the rider manual...


- new grips - end caps are ugly but it's what I had laying around and they'll be replaced with throttlemeisters shortly


- valves were checked and in specs
- new bulbs in the dash and LEDs for the background


- new tires - went with Diablo Strada as I remember them being very good and predictable but I now know they won't last much
- removed the alarm
- removed the ABS pressure modulator completely
- removed the front speed sensor
- seat was modified to fit only in the high possition
- rear rack was powder coated - the result was awful, I was testing the shop - this will have to be redone


- rear brake pedal - powder coated too, this turned out better


- center stand was serviced with Staburrags
- new oil air and fuel filters, new metal fuel QDs
- fixed the gear indicator switch
- replaced the heat shield, the old one was in terrible shape after several repairs


- replaced the broken plastics around the windshield


- new black stainless steel bolts everywhere on the fairings


- new turn signal bulbs
- replaced the rear right turns signal stem


- rear brake fluid reservoir was replaced with the one from a non-ABS unit - I hated the two chambers and all the unnecessary wires and tubing

this is a temporary attachment to confirm the clearances...

- numerous other washers, filler caps, seals, fasteners, clamps and nuts that were missing, non-original or just needed replacing (rust, cracks, etc)
- headlight cover seal
- removed a lot of unnecessary wiring and stickers advising to use original Honda parts
- elongated the adjustable bolt for the gear lever and put new rubber bushings


- hand protectors



And here's the bike right after I assembled it for the first time.... 3 am at the car wash



Here I'm testing for tank bag size


I kind of have to go back to the original grey wheel, don't I?



Now I have to do this freaking thing! it came without mounting brackets. I was thinking of bending some plexiglass but maybe someone here can point me to where I can buy brackets for it?


does anyone recognize this screen?

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Old 04-23-2018, 03:00 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by ilian
Now I have to do this freaking thing! it came without mounting brackets. I was thinking of bending some plexiglass but maybe someone here can point me to where I can buy brackets for it?


does anyone recognize this screen?

Nice work! Are you available for hire?

As far as the screen, pretty sure that it is the ztechnik short screen.

http://www.nationalcycle.com/z2214.html
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Old 04-23-2018, 03:48 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Headlight? Hi/Lo adjust at the same time.Look at the R/H side of the rear cover.White Flip'a'lever thing right there.May be in the wrong position?

Flips the internal headlight housing up/down to compensate for extra weight (or lack of....!) from gear,passenger or? Sagged down old rear Showa?

Set it on the high position,you can see the internal housing move up/down as you flip the lever.And then fine tune with the white adjustment knob right at the center of the flip'a'lever.

Side to side? A little trickier that one.But if required look at the left rear side of the housing.If you can see the little cogged wheel,that's the side to side adjustment.
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Old 04-23-2018, 03:58 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Not much good comes from washing a bike at a car wash with a pressure wand, no matter how careful you are.
The work list is great.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:42 PM
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Re: RSurrection

It's like operating on a patient with a chainsaw...
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Old 04-24-2018, 02:22 AM
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Re: RSurrection

I only use the hoses there, no high pressure anything...
Have been doing it for years
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Old 04-24-2018, 05:04 AM
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Re: RSurrection

The experience - I rode maybe 400 miles over the weekend and here are my first impressions. It's subjective, no way around it...

This is an incredible machine. I know there are many faster bikes out there but I don't care about speed alone. It's all about the complete package for me - the combination of comfort and speed is what I got the bike for and it makes me feel great. Which is kind of the whole point...

High speed wobble - the bike is very stable under acceleration or deceleration but at steady (constant) speeds of above 100 mph I feel a slight wobble. Most apparent when passing big trucks on the highway - I'll keep adjusting the suspension, the tires are brand new (38 psi front, 42 psi rear). Could winglets (hand protectors) contribute to this? I rode solo and the wobble is there with the windscreen (GT screen) in both positions. Could it be something else?

Focus level - I had totally forgotten what it's like to ride a fast bike as I only rode the GS for the past 10 years (rode VFR before that). I made quite a few mistakes over the weekend - glad I always leave margin for error. Things seem to be happening very quickly on this bike and I work on my smoothness now, the rest will come with saddle time. On the GS, you could get distracted for a second or few, not on this bike!

Ergonomics - My body (6'4") is already getting used to the riding position and this was one of the big reasons why I bought this bike - I want the wind blast above me, I don't like to sit up like on adventure bikes. Everything is ergonomically perfect for me - bars are in the forward position, peg on the lower and seat on the high setting. I only need the US_10 Kriega tank bag to lay on and am set. I was certain I'd need highway pegs but resting my feet on the rear pegs seem to work, need more mileage for final decision. Throttle return spring is heavy but I like it this way. At very high speeds, when there's lot going on around me, it was easier for me to feel and control the throttle than it would have been if it was lighter/ more sensitive. Also, no grip puppies for me on this bike (for the same reason). I ordered them but they'll be spare for the GS, I like how the bars feel with the original grips. the diameter, angle, etc. feels great. For long hours on the highway I'll be putting throttlemeisters but I can't seem to find any available. Anyone have a set for sale?
I'm not touching the seat for now as I find it very comfortable, I even suspect that they made the side cuts/curves so that it's comfortable when you rest you feet on the rear pegs.

Warning light - When I test rode the bike before purchase no warning light came on. After removing the whole ABS thing, I got a flashing warning light (triangle, not the abs one). I then realized that after swapping the rear brake fluid reservoir for a non-abs one, the brain now thinks the rear brake fluid level is too low - last night I shorted the two wires for it (brown and yellow-brown) and thus simulated full reservoirs. Now it's not flashing but it's steadily on all the time - could it be the missing front speed sensor? Bulbs in the stop light? The license plate light need new bulb is now not working - could it be this?

Another leak - the belly pan has engine oil on it but I think it's not from the clutch o-ring/ main seal as the weep hole I made is dry. I think the leak is from the belly pan but I will be riding some more and then see what I'll do, hopefully it's not a difficult job for over the winter.

Heated grips - this is next on the list too. It wasn't important when I was buying the bike but now I realize how spoiled I am. Going to Beemerboneyard for this..

Rhineswest chip - Is it still possible to find these? Does it make sense to put it if I want to stay with the stock exhaust? I read too many threads on the topic and now am confused..
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:11 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Ilian,

If those LED indicator/dash lights get too bright for you at night, I got a set of lower lumens LED's from SuperBrightLEDs that are brighter than the OEM incandescent bulbs but that are about right for night time riding and still very visible during the day. I used the colored bulbs in the various indicator colors with the exception of the ALTERNATOR BULB. That bulb requires an incandescent bulb for the ALT to work properly.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...Specifications

VERY NICE WORK on the rehab and PHOTOS!!
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:51 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by ilian
...
.....
Warning light - When I test rode the bike before purchase no warning light came on. After removing the whole ABS thing, I got a flashing warning light (triangle, not the abs one). I then realized that after swapping the rear brake fluid reservoir for a non-abs one, the brain now thinks the rear brake fluid level is too low - last night I shorted the two wires for it (brown and yellow-brown) and thus simulated full reservoirs. Now it's not flashing but it's steadily on all the time - could it be the missing front speed sensor? Bulbs in the stop light? The license plate light need new bulb is now not working - could it be this?
...
....

FIRST: the licence plate light is NOT monitored, so it is not related.


SECOND: Did you keep the whole top of the iABS modulator connected to large main-harness connector (fully inserted) ??


In relation to a steady "General-Warning" , when troubleshooting, keep in mind the followings being monitored by the electronics of iABS modulator:

(A) REAR BULB: both the night filament and the brake filament is monitored for defect. However if the brake part of the bulb is defective, the dash warning will begin only on 1st brake application (instead of after ignition ON).

(B) both BRAKE SWITCHES: the iABS expects both brake switches to have continuity when lever/pedal is a rest. Opposite logic when brakes are applied (open circuit / no-continuity).
Older K1200RS with ABS2 have opposite logic switches compare to iABS with servos.

(C) both ABS WHEEL SENSOR: if unplugged or defective (after pull away moving test), you get a "General-Warning" combined with a flashing ABS-warning.

(D) FLUID LEVEL: this only applied to level in small 2 section container under seat on right side.

(E) Internal PRESSURE sensors: at least 2 pressure sensor internal to the iABS modulator will monitor a pressure check after ignition ON when you hear the servos motors for a few seconds. Of course when the bottom part of the modulator is removed this check cannot work.

Based on all the above, in your particular case (iABS modulator removed), I suspect there is no other option than removing the bulb in the dash.

Although I have not removed my iABS modulator and done major tests on this, I do NOT know of any way to hide/stop the internal pressure checks of item (E), even if you connect both Wheel speed sensors.
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:16 AM
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Re: RSurrection

High speed wobble?A lower profile front will do that.Happened to me when I bought my K.Straight to the BMW specialist it went for new tires.I guess he didn't look at his tire fitment guide?

I chased the wobble until I wore out that tire and mounted the correct size.Mind you....older bike with some milleage?Check ball joints and measure suspension sag.
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Old 04-25-2018, 10:19 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by ilian
High speed wobble - the bike is very stable under acceleration or deceleration but at steady (constant) speeds of above 100 mph I feel a slight wobble. Most apparent when passing big trucks on the highway - I'll keep adjusting the suspension, the tires are brand new (38 psi front, 42 psi rear). Could winglets (hand protectors) contribute to this? I rode solo and the wobble is there with the windscreen (GT screen) in both positions. Could it be something else?

Okay, I'm in complete awe over what you've just done! Given that I'm pretty seriously underdone in terms of K-mechanics, I'm cautious about offering mechanical advice. I can however check things, and have had a few small issues over the years. So, for what its worth, I'd check the simple things first to do some "area reduction". Basically, try and rule out the obvious:

1. Tire pressure: you've already onto this (for the record, I run 38 psi in the front hoop and 42 psi in the back), so let's move on ...

2. Tire sizes: I know it sounds dumb, but are they the right ones for the RS? And while you're checking, do a double check on the rotation arrows too.

3. Tire shape: just check over both tires to make sure there is nothing speared into them, like a stone or a nail. and check that they don't have some weird blister forming as a result of heat deformation / delamination - sounds outlandish, but speaking from experience on this ...

4. Wheels: moving on, look for any fairly pronounced dings, chips, a bent rim, or other deformities. This will send the wheel balance out of whack and can translate into a high speed shake or wobble. Its also possible that the balance weight has come unstuck and fallen off the rim ...

5. Wheels: more wheel stuff. Check the wheel rotation front and rear. Give the rear wheel a push+pull, or twist, across the bike to check for any lateral movement in the final drive and wheel mounting. Shouldn't be any; and if there is it can result in all sorts of nasty things including a wobble or shake at speed.

6. Rear suspension. Measure the sag in the rear sock (its slightly technical, but there's threads in this forum to guide; and if you can put a new clutch in then you'll probably write the next thread on it). Looks like you're running the original Showa on the rear. Opinions differ, but I reckon they're good for 20,000 - 40,000 kms and not much more - anything after that is a blessing. Again, for the record, I got the GT at 57,000 kms and needed to change it over immediately. A faded shock would translate into poor handling, low seat height, near upright stance on the side stand, and a bit of K wallow, but wouldn't normally come through as high frequency shakes or bumps.

7. Front suspension. Unlikely to be the culprit, but a dead front Showa shock, a dead steering damper, or a slightly bent fork (just out of true) could produce a wallow or or low frequency wobble.

8. Winglets and screen. Both are unlikely to be the offender. Maybe. Not entirely sure what you mean by winglets. I have the hand guard / wind deflector thingies on the GT and, if anything, she gets steadier the faster I go. The factory GT screen is noisy, that's for sure; but doesn't translate into a wobble or shudder at high speeds.

Anything after that, I defer to the other more zen mechanics on this forum.

Bruce.
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Old 04-25-2018, 11:04 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by KAUS
Anything after that, I defer to the other more zen mechanics on this forum.
I don't qualify as a "zen mechanic", but I will offer this.

When I did my first tire change back in 2003, I induced a high speed wobble on my bike as well with the new tires. Unsure what you are calling high speed, but in my case it became evident in the 100-140 mph range if I recall correctly. Ultimately I was able to remove my wobble by reading the service manual which states on front wheel reassembly:

"Tighten the quick release axle first, then the left clamping screw (as looking at the bike from the front). Compress the telescopic fork several times, then tighten the right clamping screw."

Here's to hoping that your solution is this simple.
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Old 05-02-2018, 04:47 AM
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Re: RSurrection

the front wheel mounting procedure is clear and it was followed - that is exactly why no mechanic ever touches my bikes - the little things like that...

the main suspects for now are the two ball joints at the telelever/front end

I didn't want to write anything too soon but now I have tested it in all kinds of conditions - with and without side cases, hand gurads, both screens in both positions - the wobble is there in low speeds too - I just hadn't noticed it before - internet is full of threads on this - apparently owners don't like to talk about it and bmw hadn't been helpful in the past.

I will do some more testing and check the ball joints carefully with the front wheel off.

best
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Old 05-02-2018, 09:58 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Actually there is an helpful service bulletin on ball joints. My bike is right in the middle of the VIN range where BMW installed defective lower(?) ball joints at the factory.

It may have been replaced before 20Ks,first owner was apparently working at the BMW dealership so may have been aware of the service bulletin.

I'll dig up the bulletin later......probably one of them bulletins that mentions "repairs only if owner complains of?"
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:08 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbegin@burton
Actually there is an helpful service bulletin on ball joints. My bike is right in the middle of the VIN range where BMW installed defective lower(?) ball joints at the factory.

It may have been replaced before 20Ks,first owner was apparently working at the BMW dealership so may have been aware of the service bulletin.

I'll dig up the bulletin later......probably one of them bulletins that mentions "repairs only if owner complains of?"


yes, I found the pdf of that SB and my bike is outside the specified range of serial numbers but still... I'll keep this thread updated as I go along.
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Old 05-02-2018, 11:46 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Quote:
Originally Posted by ilian
the front wheel mounting procedure is clear and it was followed - that is exactly why no mechanic ever touches my bikes - the little things like that...

the main suspects for now are the two ball joints at the telelever/front end

I didn't want to write anything too soon but now I have tested it in all kinds of conditions - with and without side cases, hand gurads, both screens in both positions - the wobble is there in low speeds too - I just hadn't noticed it before - internet is full of threads on this - apparently owners don't like to talk about it and bmw hadn't been helpful in the past.

I will do some more testing and check the ball joints carefully with the front wheel off.

best

Several years ago I bought a set of Avon tires, ('02 RS had the ball joints replaced per the service bulletin) and immediately following installation of those tires the bike developed a "weave" at low speeds, really alarming when decelerating. This was the first and only time I replaced a set of tires long before they were worn out. New tires of a different brand, not sure which, likely Michelins, and the issue went away. Not sure if that's the cause of your issue. Just a thought.
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Old 05-02-2018, 12:06 PM
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Re: RSurrection

I certainly agree, not all tires work on all bikes.
I've replace ball joints twice on my K bike. The main symptom is a slow weave at low speed (about 30mph) which gets worse quickly, to cornering problems. And I always change both at the same time.
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Old 05-02-2018, 12:39 PM
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Re: RSurrection

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Old 05-16-2018, 01:55 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Hi guys,

I removed the front wheel, the lower shock bolt and the steering dampener to check for play in the ball joints but there isn't any .... I rocked the forks front to back so strong that the bike almost fell on me but there was no play there.

How do you check for play there on your bikes? Is it possible that the ball joints are busted but I can't feel it or is it always apparent when they need changing?
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Old 05-16-2018, 02:07 AM
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Re: RSurrection

If the rear swing arm is not loose, the ball joints present failure by slow speed (30mph) weaving. Much like if a traditional fork bike has its steering head bearings too tight. People say they can feel them by doing what you said with the front forks, I have had two sets go south on my K13S and never could feel the forks move when off the ground and man handling them. Sure could feel the bike weave though.
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Old 05-19-2018, 07:38 AM
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Re: RSurrection

Iím glad to report that the weave problem is gone.
Iím ashamed to report that it was the front wheel quick release clamp bolts.

Itís a bit ironic that I made one of the mistakes I planned to eleminate by working on the bike myself. In my defence, the bmw manual is wrong: it says to tighten one of those bolts, then release the tension in the axle by jumping on the front brake, then do the other bolt. This is wrong! At the time, I noticed that itís a different procedure to the GS but, you know, who am I to question bmw designers... itís a different bike afterall...

I decided to do it the way it is in my GS manual, basically release the axle tension and then do both bolts - the problem has gone at least 95%. Unfortunatey, I canít test it extensively as I got a leak in the front brake master cylinder. Will this never end? Iím not going to give up on this bike as it was exactly what I need but am starting to get sick of it.

During the time since my last post, I rode the bike with my wife and she fucking liked it so I mounted a top box to give her more comfort and left the speedo not working. I canít ride this bike at those speeds with my wife behind me and a working speedo. I still havenít told her that the speedo of the GS I bought 9 years ago is in miles ( she thinks itís in kms)... you know the saying: clueless wife, happy life
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Old 05-19-2018, 11:23 AM
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Re: RSurrection

I haven't read the manual for a while on installing the front wheel?

The "Maintenance instructions" booklet that came with my bike covers the procedure."Rider's manual" is about operation but the "Maintenance Instructions" booklet is about specs and "how to".Good to have if just to confirm specs etc....!Mine disagrees with Clymer on fuse assignments and is correct.Clymer is wrong.

From the maintenance instructions booklet:

Hand tighten axle bolt and clamps screws.Compress forks a few times.Tighten axle bolt to torque then the clamps.

3-4 times a year for me? They like to eat tires them bikes?
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Old 05-19-2018, 09:29 PM
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Re: RSurrection

Service manual does have an error.

Easy to spot?




2018-05-19_05-25-12 by Pierre Begin - Flickr2BBcode
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