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"K12GT" Technical Q&A K1200GT-'NG'- Technical Questions/Answers

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  #1  
Old 10-07-2018, 01:07 AM
Brico Brico is offline
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I fixed my badly slipping clutch :-)

When I purchased my 2007 K1200GT with 71000 km/44000 miles on it last May I noticed a slight grinding noise on take off but nothing alarming (at least I thought so). Previous owner claimed that BMW service technician told him the grinding noise is just "cosmetically unappealing" but not to worry about it. The bike run well but that grinding noise would not go away.

After several months of riding and another 6000km/ 3700 miles I noticed the bike is not pulling when I rev it up on the highway and shortly after that it got progressively worse. It ended up so bad that at one time I barely managed to ride the bike few miles and making left turn was actually dangerous on hat listening ride. I could not go faster than 40km/h 25/mph so I parked it and after some research on the forum (thanks Patrique Hofmann) and elsewhere on the web (Alsmotorrad Youtube video was the most informative ) , I ordered:

- Barnett clutch pack $200 Canadian (through local non-BMW motorcycle shop)
- New clutch cover gasket and bolts $100 Canadian from the local BMW dealership
- Big driver lock wrench and crankshaft locking pin tools $230 Canadian from Max BMW
( I watched British mechanic James Wright on Youtube) do the job without the special tools, i. e. big driver locking wrench and crankshaft locking pin but did not really want to try my luck.

After opening the clutch cover and removing the clutch pack I found some residue/caked friction material on the clutch basket but nothing alarming. I inspected the friction plates and steel plates between them. The clutch pack was original with green "o" rings and "Harbinger" lettering on the smaller tabs. No friction plate was worn completely and they seem to have worn out evenly as I could not see one that was worn out more or less than others. The steel plates between them were very shiny and smooth.

There was no deep grooving/indentation on the clutch basket tabs where friction plates hit the basket tabs when engaging/shifting gears. The oiling holes were exactly at the height where each friction plate sits. But that is when I stacked the new clutch pack friction plates and steel plates between them. With the old/worn out friction plates the oiling holes are not really matching.

I did not remove the clutch basket to check the springs. Even if I did, I would not have attempted to replace them as I feel the refitting of new beveled rivets is not something I would be able to do myself.

Then before soaking the new Barnett clutch pack in oil (I did it overnight), I measured the total thickness of 8 friction plates and 7 steel plates between them and found that old/original ones were 42mm thick while new Barnett ones were 45mm. Significant loss of friction material in my mind so I am not surprised that my clutch was slipping and bike unable to move at the end.

The thrust pin on my bike is the 'third generation" as Patrique calls it. It is one that is 72mm long and has one groove cut in it. I did not attempt in cutting another groove on it and got somewhat confusing information from the BMW dealership saying that as far as they know, this is the latest one and there is no later model than that with two grooves (for improved oil flow)

I reassembled everything today and test rode the bike around the neighbourhood and it pulls like a champ.

It is Thanksgiving weekend here in Canada so I may take the bike for a spin on Monday to warm up the oil and change it before retiring for the winter.
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2006 BMW K1200GT
2006 BMW K1200S
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  #2  
Old 10-07-2018, 04:47 AM
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Patrique83 Patrique83 is online now
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Re: I fixed my badly slipping clutch :-)

...... there are 3 generations of clutch pins.

1. gen. 32mm long + aluminum piece stuck in the tranny shaft.
1.5 gen. 32 mm long + reworked aluminum piece (supposedly more oil flow)
2. gen 72mm long, one groove
3. gen 72mm long, two grooves

I got a friend though who recently pulled his clutch and he only had the 32mm pin but no aluminum "nozzle" in the tranny shaft. He had been riding it like that for 20,000km without problems. His only complaint was that the clutch wasnt seperating properly and that the bike jumped forward everytime he went from neutral to 1st gear. No clutch slipping though, even with "extra" oil flowing freely into the clutch assembly.

So it seems as if the clutch pin acts as a restriction of how much oil gets into the clutch pack to give it enough to lubricate the plates vs. not getting the plates to stick together.....

I modified my 2nd gen. Pin with one groove to resemble the 3rd gen. plus a bit extra. It doesnt jump forward and i have (almost) no judder when pulling away.
It does get progressively worse though if i am in stop and go traffic, but clears up once i get going for a couple of kilometers.
Riding around with the quickshifter also makes a huge difference, as the clutch never has to dis-engage and re-engage all the time.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:49 PM
Brico Brico is offline
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Re: I fixed my badly slipping clutch :-)

So, I finally got around riding my bike after replacing the clutch pack with Barnett clutch kit.

The first couple of tries around the neighbourhood block was a bit weird and it felt as if it needs bedding in.

It was fortunately dry and sunny here in Pacific North West last three days so I rode it for three days doing about 100 miles each day and after first day the bike felt amazing. it pulls like a champ from stopped position. It accelerates excellently in all gears. No noise, no grinding, just smooth take off and acceleration.

Barnett clutch kit is worth every penny. It cost me $200 Canadian and some "quality time" with the bike in the garage.
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2006 BMW K1200S
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