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  #1  
Old 09-03-2018, 11:02 PM
Dark Horse Dark Horse is offline
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Transmission clearance

<calm...very calm>

Is there some magical technique, something I gotta sacrifice, some way to get the trans to clear the Frame on the RH side? I have almost 3mm solid interference between the trans housing and the frame on that side. The trans mounting tab isn't even close to clear of the mount point in the frame, so I can't just push engine/trans to one side to buy clearance. Trying to tilt either the motor or the frame is silly, since the one comes with the other. Not that I haven't tried that.

I read the Clymer, and both versions of the factory instructions, and followed them, except for raising the bike and lowering the engine/trans, which seems to be accepted practice. Both manuals mention that interference will happen if the frame isn't raised straight. Bike is level in the cradle I built, and I got interference with both a tranny lift and a floor jack. Moving the floor jack to different points on the sump made no difference at all.
Front engine mounts are loosened, crossmember bolts are not. I didn't drop the battery box yet, but that shouldn't matter. When/if I get this trans out, I'm going to take a nice big mill file and knock about 3mm off the inside of the frame at that point. Ugly, but at this point IDGAF.

I got this bike from a VERY highly credentialed helicopter engineer, and it's been a f'in nightmare. Between shitty mechanicery ( like grease under the twist grip, and a "just-done" valve adjustment that was utterly wrong), unearthly oil consumption, and 120psi across the board, I'm just about done.

If anyone has the hint for getting this effing transmission past the frame, so I don't have to listen to dying bearing anymore, I would greatly appreciate it.

-HR
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2018, 01:12 AM
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alex alex is offline
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Re: Transmission clearance

Minimal clearance is normal. A practice that is used is to put a Mylar sheet between the frame and the gearbox, this will prevent scratching. Undo all the bolts, get the battery box out and pull, it will come out. If you are studying it with it all still bolted up it may look like there is no room but there is. I assume you have raised the frame?
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2018, 05:19 AM
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Flying Kiwi Flying Kiwi is offline
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Re: Transmission clearance

Loosen the front engine mount bolts a lot, but obviously do not remove them. Slacken these off and that will help heaps. I used a takeaway container lid, trimmed of the edges so it was a flat piece of plastic and slide it between the tranny and the frame during removal and install. I also used a small bottle jack under the R/H side frame to help 'twist' the frame upwards to allow the motor/transmission drop down cleanly. Good idea to remove the cross member before proceeding further.
Hope this helps.


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  #4  
Old 09-04-2018, 09:08 AM
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sailor sailor is online now
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Re: Transmission clearance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Horse
<calm...very calm>

Is there some magical technique, something I gotta sacrifice, some way to get the trans to clear the Frame on the RH side? I have almost 3mm solid interference between the trans housing and the frame on that side. The trans mounting tab isn't even close to clear of the mount point in the frame, so I can't just push engine/trans to one side to buy clearance. Trying to tilt either the motor or the frame is silly, since the one comes with the other. Not that I haven't tried that.

I read the Clymer, and both versions of the factory instructions, and followed them, except for raising the bike and lowering the engine/trans, which seems to be accepted practice. Both manuals mention that interference will happen if the frame isn't raised straight. Bike is level in the cradle I built, and I got interference with both a tranny lift and a floor jack. Moving the floor jack to different points on the sump made no difference at all.
Front engine mounts are loosened, crossmember bolts are not. I didn't drop the battery box yet, but that shouldn't matter. When/if I get this trans out, I'm going to take a nice big mill file and knock about 3mm off the inside of the frame at that point. Ugly, but at this point IDGAF.

I got this bike from a VERY highly credentialed helicopter engineer, and it's been a f'in nightmare. Between shitty mechanicery ( like grease under the twist grip, and a "just-done" valve adjustment that was utterly wrong), unearthly oil consumption, and 120psi across the board, I'm just about done.

If anyone has the hint for getting this effing transmission past the frame, so I don't have to listen to dying bearing anymore, I would greatly appreciate it.

-HR

You have already received some good hint in previous posts.
Having done the job AND having followed many similar jobs on two forums dedicated to K1200RS / K1200LT, my suggestions are:

At the minimum:
1) remove cross-member completely

THEN, to aid further:
2) temporarely replace both front engine support bolts (to crankcase) for long 1/4 or 6mm bolts. This will give some wiggle room to the engine+trans assy.

Of course, you need to support front of engine (under oil filter cover area) while you swap each long bolt ONE BY ONE. The left side bolt has a nut somewhat behind radiator. The right side normally threads directly into engine case (you can put a nut there during the job to secure it). The left side bolt needs to be at least 70mm long (3 inch roughly) and the right side should be at least 100mm (4 inches)

As a last option, if needed:
3) top of transmission has 2 rubber bushing where the main long frame bolt goes thru. One of these bushing has TORX bolts the other has ALLEN bolts. The bushinh with ALLEN bolt can be loosened so that the bushing may move and give some added side wiggle room.

CLYMER explains fairly well in chapter 6 (transmission) how to re-align the moved bushing when transmission+engine will be back into the frame.
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  #5  
Old 09-04-2018, 10:23 AM
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pbegin@burton pbegin@burton is online now
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Re: Transmission clearance

Offset the jack(or stand) under the engine to the left.Then a bar clamp to move the engine left if required.

Jack or stand centered under the pan?That pushes the engine to the right and transmission won't clear the frame.
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