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"K13GT" Technical Q&A K1300GT- Technical Questions/Answers

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  #1  
Old 01-29-2017, 04:05 PM
Dibble07 Dibble07 is offline
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Question Clutch Dragging

Hi All, just landed here looking for some advice on my 2010 K1300GT's current problem....having searched the forum I'm at a loss. My story so far..went out to the 'bike the other day and the clutch fluid reservoir was empty, no signs of a leak. Topped up with correct grade oil and bled through. So far so good. Took her out a run today, fluid still at top of level. About 15 minutes into ride when stopped at signals and clutch held in in 1st gear the 'bike started to pull forward. I had to stall it on the front brake, find neutral and fire her up. When engaging gear the lever went right back to the bars and the biting point was VERY low. After some exploratory work I found the fluid to be on the mark, however I noticed a small amount of fluid running from the bottom of the master cylinder? (bar mounted) down the hose. Any ideas what might be the problem?......sorry if this has been covered before, but I don't want to pay for the wrong parts here in the UK. Many thanks in advance. Dibble
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:20 AM
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Patrique83 Patrique83 is online now
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Re: Clutch Dragging

That sounds like the master cylinder (handle bar) has a bad seal in the piston, especially since the hydraulic fluid is running down the line.
The handle bar pump can't be disassembled and repaired as far as i know.


I'd look on ebay for a used master cylinder.....
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:35 AM
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Re: Clutch Dragging

Try Motorworks in Holmfirth :-

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Home/index.php

Always helpful - and they may even be breaking a K1300GT . . .
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Old 01-30-2017, 09:13 AM
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Re: Clutch Dragging

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dibble07
Topped up with correct grade oil and bled through.
What "correct grade oil" did you use? I tend to agree that it sounds like a bad seal inside the MC.
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Old 01-30-2017, 09:17 PM
Dibble07 Dibble07 is offline
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Re: Clutch Dragging

Thanks for the replies and advice guys. It looks very much like the master cylinder that's gone. I'll remove it tomorrow for a look see, and order a new one if needed. Thanks again 👍
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Old 02-03-2017, 09:38 AM
Dibble07 Dibble07 is offline
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Re: Clutch Dragging

I'm really starting to struggle with this one...I've removed the master cylinder and had it pressure tested....no issues there, seals are all fine. I've removed the slave cylinder and had it checked out too...no obvious signs of damage / wear. So the question remains a) where did all my clutch fluid go? (problem initially occurred after I found servo reservoir dry with no obvious signs of a leak.) and b) why after a short period of time holding the clutch in at a stop right against the bar does the drive start to come in?

I would have bet a whole pay check on either of the cylinders being faulty. Now I'm not so sure. I have fluid,good seals and pressure can be maintained in the system so why in the heck does this happen? I'm gonna try and pressure bleed the line from the slave cylinder back to the reservoir using red Hydraulikol LS clutch fluid (I've no idea what difference the color makes, I just know you can't mix it with blue :-) ) Help!!
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Old 02-13-2017, 06:20 PM
Honolulu Honolulu is offline
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Re: Clutch Dragging

Well it seems to me that if it leaked while upright, the problem has to be upwards/above where the leaking fluid was spotted (unless while riding the wind blew it upwards). So if your m/c is tested and found okay, then the hose connection is suspect, or the hose has developed a leak.

You could try fill the reservoir, apply the clutch lever and tie it to the bars for a period - say overnight. If it leaks, everything lower down is no longer suspect. My money's on a hose that needs replacement but it could also be that the reservoir has a crack.
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Old 08-05-2017, 01:29 PM
chilleary chilleary is offline
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Re: Clutch Dragging

Can you close this thread by letting us know how you fixed this problem? I have the same issue and would like to know how you resolved it.
Thanks,
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Old 08-15-2017, 04:08 AM
Honolulu Honolulu is offline
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Re: Clutch Dragging

Someone on this or another K13 list had a bad slave cylinder, seal IIRC, that let fluid into the clutch housing (therefore into the engine). The quantity wasn't much, but who needs mineral oil in their engine?

Good advice above. in addition to tieing the clutch lever overnight, you could try that with the slave cylinder dangling by it's hose. Leakage at the slave suggests a new slave... you could consider the Oberon unit if you want. I have not connection with them, and you'll have to look 'em up, I have no link to pass along.

Hose could be suspect if you fiddled with it, rerouting it where it isn't supposed to be, leading to excessive stretching or kinking.

Remember Mechanic's Rule: look where and at what you last messed with.

Be careful about re-installing the clutch slave, if it uses those one-time aluminum stretch bolts, some replace those with stainless steel and very gentle hands. The torque spec is quite low, and since I don't remember it, you'll have to look that up too. What good is this if I can't remember anything? Well "they" say that memory is the second thing to go with age, but don't you believe it.
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Old 08-15-2017, 08:39 PM
chilleary chilleary is offline
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Re: Clutch Dragging

I finally resolved my clutch dragging problem. At first I thought it was the clutch friction disc had worn a groove in the aluminum drive hub (I have a 2005 K12S with the shitty soft aluminum drive hub). So I had my buddy turn down the face of the hub smooth. Installed new clutch friction discs and steels. Problem still there.
Changed out the Slave with an Oberon. Problem still there.
Changed the lever so I could get more "throw" on the master cylinder. Problem still there...but I learned a few things about bleeding this idiotic clutch system. Air was being trapped at the master. I loosened the banjo bolt to get most of it out then popped the lever by pressing it and releasing it fast over and over. More bubble came out the reservoir as I did this. Eventually the lever firmed up. Still had the problem though.
Took out of the master and tested it, held pressure. Didn't trust it so bought a K13S lever and master from eBay. Installed it, bled the system, and wha la! Its fixed.
Could have been a combination of the new master and the refined bleeding procedure. Not sure.
Also found out I had adjusted the "plunger" on the lever too far in with the 2mm wrench. Caused the clutch to slip at high r's. Backed it off a bit now it seems to work better.
Now I have the F'd-up ABS, Brake Failure light flashing 4x per second, red triangle on constantly problem.
I gave up my Ducati's because I was sick of working on them more than I rode them. Of course I had to buy THE worst model BMW had ever made as my replacement bike.
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Old 08-15-2017, 08:57 PM
Honolulu Honolulu is offline
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Re: Clutch Dragging

I think Chilleary got his done by effective bleeding, though he took "the long way 'round". His secondary issue MAY have been too-close adjustment of the hand lever.

Bleeding through small diameter parts can be very frustrating. Heat and vibration help, as does patience of the overnight variety, and knowing that the system being bled simply isn't allowing all your fluid out of an undetected leak, and/or sucking air right back in.

A variation on pressure bleeding might have helped: using a large syringe and pushing fluid in from the bleeder port on the slave cylinder. I keep syringes around (1 cc up to 100 cc) and they are useful to suck out brake fluid reservoirs, carefully mix epoxy for glue-ups, and so on. For example, if I had a liter-class syringe, I'd be changing my coolant from the bottom up.

I'm watching this because I have the same bike as the OP, and just maybe, what goes around, comes around.
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