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"KRS/GT" Technical Q&A K1200RS/GT Technical Questions/Answers

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  #1  
Old 10-27-2012, 11:21 AM
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K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

G'day Folks,
With the Summer rolling on here in downunder Oz, I am doing some maintenance on the bike.

Usual check of play in the rear end showed everything tight, just about!

There is a small amount of lateral side to side play between the final drive and the paralever. Looking in the fiche identified these as Pivot Pins. They seem to attach the FD to the Paralever.

There is a bit of play, just discernible, maybe about a bit less than a sixteenth of an inch or 1mm. Haven't measured it and not sure if it is that much but I can feel movement to a very small extent.

I have a Clymers and workshop CD but thought I would ask the Knowledgeable Ones first to see if that amount of play is OK or there needs to be adjustment or greasing of these important pins.

I changed the FD oil about 5Kmi ago and no flakes of metal were showing.

Used the search function but nothing specific came up.

Thanks in advance for your help here.

Merlin in sub tropical mid east coast Australia
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  #2  
Old 10-27-2012, 12:17 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin geikie
There is a small amount of lateral side to side play between the final drive and the paralever. Looking in the fiche identified these as Pivot Pins. They seem to attach the FD to the Paralever.

There should not be any play in that area if the joint is assembled per the book and no wear is present. An adjustment of the inner pin may correct the problem but, I believe an inspection is in order.
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:48 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Yes...inspect before the probably bad bearings wear out the pins. Will be much cheaper.

Nothing cheap already if just for them propriatory BMW bearings at $xx.xx but lubed and inspected regularly they should last quite a while.

May not be a lot on here about them but if you google Paralever Pivot Bearings/pins, you'll find lots on them. Same bearings have been used since the introduction of the Paralevers in 1988, only 3-4 years before I got acquainted with them myself.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:01 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Hey Merlin, greetings from across the ditch. At 40,000 km, your pivots should still be ok, but maybe not. I have got into the habit of re greasing and torquing mine every rear tire change. Takes very little time, and I had 75,000 km from my last set. They could have easily lasted longer, but I'd done a lot of work including swing arm bearings, clutch slave and output seal so I wanted everything fresh
Here is how I do a re grease:
1) Engage 1st gear, and rock the rear wheel forward until it stops.
2) Remove the rear caliper and zip tie the disc to the caliper bolt holes so the disc cannot turn. This is VERY IMPORTANT
3) Remove the rear wheel and loosen, but do not remove the rear torsion bar bolt
4) Following Clymer, remove the fixed and floating bearing journal nuts on both sides. You will need plenty of heat, especially the outside fixed bearing that's torqued to 160Nm! The inside bearing locknut is torqued to 41Nm, so not so bad.
5) As the bearing journals are removed, so the FD will fall away from the swing arm, so make sure you support the FD securely. If the disc is allowed to turn the drive shaft can go out of phase, hence the reason for zip tying the disc securely, and locking the tranny in gear.
6) With the FD detached from the DS you can now gently pull out the bearings and inspect for pitting or flat spots. Any sign of wear and they are toast. If they are ok, re grease them with bearing grease and put them back.
7) At this point, it would be prudent to re grease the splines between the DS and the FD. Guard Dog moly grease is the go, and available from Beemer bone yard. Great to deal with, and at the same time, order your set of pivot bearings, (keep as spares if not needed now and buy a six pack of oem oil filters at the same time as they are a fraction of the cost).
8) Thoroughly clean any loctite residue off the bearing journal threads and the reciprocating swing arm threads. This is important as you must be able to wind them into the swing arm with your fingers
9) Reinstall the final drive into the swing arm. I put a piece of rag under the DS to hold it in position until the FD slips onto the spline. Don't forget to remove the rag! Tighten the fixed outside bearing journal finger tight and leave the inside free journal quite loose. DO NOT use any loctite. (this is my personal opinion and may differ from others on the forum, but after multiple removal/installs, I've had no issues)
10) Tighten the outside fixed journal according to Clymer specs at 160Nm. Now the inside journal. BMW specs a special tool, however, homemade is easy. Purchase a 30mm socket and a 12mm allen key. Cut a slot in the socket and grind down/reshape the allen key as in the pic.
11) Torque the journal to 9Nm and release. Do this a couple of times before doing a final torque at 8Nm. The book says 7Nm but I find a bit of play creeps in at this setting.
12) With the allen key positioned through the slot in the socket, you can now torque the locknut to 41Nm. Re torque the torsion bar to 43Nm, install the wheel and caliper, remove the zip ties and check your work. I put a small dab of white paint on the lock nut so I can see if it has moved. If all is good, go for a ride.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:14 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Thanks Folks,

Spent a bit of a troubled night concerned about my pivot pins play

But on reading of all your helpful hints, tips and experience, I am much heartened and ready to face the music once again.

With an eye on The Flying Kiwi's excellent detailed instructions,
Quote:
Hey Merlin, greetings from across the ditch.
all should be pretty plain sailing.

Thanks again for the great support on our Forum and I will let you know how it all goes.

All the best from downunder Oz
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:26 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Someone had time for good instructions..... Glad he mentioned the phasing, that can be very difficult to achieve with the Dshaft in place when you lost it. That is if the previous mechanic that may have worked in there even phased it in the first place.

There is a sneaky way to remove the Dshaft without removing the swingarm and then phase/mark & reinstall. You may want to check them U-joints anyway if your bike is up there in milleage. Them driveshafts fail with catastrophic results and you may not notice the signs on bad roads....the ones that aren't paved for sure.

Anyway, I am going in there tomorrow, I'll take some pics and....if you do not want to make "special tools" to do the job, there is also a sneaky pretty easy way to install/torque them pins without them. I haven't cut my socket yet and have done the torque a few times on them Paralevers. 3 times this year as I had to remove a Dshaft, install a spare then get the old one fixed then re-install. And then now as it is a greasable Dshaft, looks like I'll have to do the greasing job once a year,pivot bearings & Dshaft. Maybe I'll eventually cut that socket, may shave a few minutes off that job.
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:48 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin geikie
Thanks Folks,

Spent a bit of a troubled night concerned about my pivot pins play

But on reading of all your helpful hints, tips and experience, I am much heartened and ready to face the music once again.

With an eye on The Flying Kiwi's excellent detailed instructions, all should be pretty plain sailing.

Thanks again for the great support on our Forum and I will let you know how it all goes.

All the best from downunder Oz
Feel free to flick me a PM if you need any further help or clarification
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1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD
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1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:22 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Strange...the site is telling me my post contains 35 images and can't be posted as is. I know there isn't that many so will try to break it in 2 parts.

Part 1:

So? Got it figured out with some Kiwi ingenuity?

Had to go try some of his techniques to lube/inspect the bearings, did not work as well for me, driveshaft came out but that's fine had to go all the way in anyway. You'll see later how far I had to go in the hole.....!

First I slack off the pins, no heat required on my bike.....NO loctite and I have been in there recently, nothing is seized. Armpower....! Note the socket I never cut up, same socket for the swingarm pivots, them are at an even higher torque I think and will require a pretty HD socket. Under $20.00 at autoparts stores, says right on it what it is.



Other side....Grandpa's old breaker's bar coupled to a chinee hex socket.Ooops Taiwan I should say, yes there seem to be a difference in tools quality.


Now...pins are free so no need to piddle with them anymore, set up the retainers/holders and loosen the torque arms. Note on the torque arms on re-installation, has to be done with rear wheel on the ground and bike loaded with 80 ?? lbs of weight to set the rubber bushings at the right place. Ignoring that and they may tear later.




Carefully pull out the drive....that's almost too far I missed and the driveshaft disconnected.





OK then...had to remove it anyway.

Bearings are good, so are the pins. As expected with proper maintenance.Don't mix them....zapstrap them not . If you want also the plastic cage and the needles can be removed for further cleaning/inspection with a dental pic, easier than it looks but don't loose any bearings.I have a set here where the outer race wasn't showing much wear, however plenty of spotting on the inside race after removing the cage/needles.

Bearings are a lot easier to replace/install than what the manuals may say. I did a few last winter for practices, punch out with a good pin punch slowly working around the race. If they resist heat may be in order altough never had to do so. Inserting all I use is the good plastic mallet and again slowly work my way around them until they hit bottom. I feel I have more control that way than with a hammer/socket. You do not want to insert them the wrong way or somehow hit the cage, the needles may fly out. Just in case I do that inside a container.....dishpan and put grease on the cage/needles to hold them there!No grease and they may fly out just from tapping the bearings in.

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Old 10-30-2012, 12:29 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Part 2:

No shine on the pins....that's good, I don't think they are cheap but I have a good set of spares that I probably will never use. Where is my pic....Oh well!

Now I have the drive out, time to remove the rear knuckle, out with the tire irons taped not to mark the drive. Hockey tape......I am Canadian.



Then what I really wanted to look at....not too happy about that. Looks like the seal is seeping again just a little. Already had that fixed by a "Specialist" at pretty high cost I tought. He never replaced the "sleeve" the seal rides onto and THAT is in the book. HAS to be replaced with the seal and only cost $15.00 or so. I did practice with my other drive and bought the special tools to do so but they sure can be a PITA to replace so I'd rather not have to do it again after paying too much already to get it done.He shrugged when I asked about the "sleeve" later. Rant over....!



Next I pulled the driveshaft out for inspection. Well not inspection for me, that's a recently improved driveshaft with repleacable/greasable U-joints.

Big pair of Vise Grips over the driveshaft, larger screwdriver and pop...out it comes.



Re-inserting can be fiddly, I tape a wood dowel at the spline end and use that as a handle to guide it in there. Once engaged to the front splines, a sharp rap on the dowel and should fully engage. Can take me up to 5 minutes now but can also aggravate the crap out of you for a much longer time. Still will go back in there that way.

Torquing the left pin and the sneaky way. Torque at 7Nm and mark like that:



Then using such tool, 30 mm or 1 3/16" they are the same BTW, tighten the s...out of the big nut when retaining the pivot pin with a 12mm hex. Then adjust torque on the nut with the torque wrench. Pin shouldn't turn but that's what the marks are for. And then Paintmark the whole installation on both sides for visual road checks.




For Vox....pic of the new U-joints. Circlip installed in the BMW yoke without adding any more metal.Forgot to measure the U-joints to see if they are shorter than BMW to accomodate the circlip.A plug where the zerk goes so I have to install the zerks and grease, same at the front.



Everything out of the way, time to look up that seized swingarm. No leaks at the seal, that's good. Pic does show where my boot/circlip isn't installed correctly, you can maybe see part of the circlip and shouldn't. No wonder I had to drain some water out of there a couple times this year.... In my case rain water NOT wash water, did not have much time for washes last summer. Now....who installed that???



And yes....went all the way up the holes. Swingarm is seized so inserted the borescope in there with a tube taped to it so I could go all the way up the hole and soak them threads from the inside. No pics, did not feel like dragging the computer to the shop to capture images down the hole. End of project for a month, they'll have time to soak.




Gotta go....out of time today,seeya!

But before I go....darn bikes, more tools than smaller parts at the end.

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Old 10-31-2012, 12:13 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

What a great 'tour de force' of pivot pins and bearing maintenance!

Am in the midst of it now too, but haven't got a camera, well my daughter's cam

Pics came out real clear and concise and good commentary. This section would be good in a safe place like stickies.

Easy to understand for an inexperienced amateur like myself.

Thanks so much for your efforts and I really like the u joint zerks
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:15 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Nice work. This should be a sticky, albeit, trimmed of the non essential bits related to pivot bearing replacement
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1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:55 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

All good.

Pivot bearings seemed to be OK and a clean and a greasing, torqued to spec and Voila no more play and better still I know how to do the job.

Put the goodly Guard Dog into the FD/DS splines after a good clean.

Put Guard Dog into the pivot bearings too, as they are really a sort of u joint, just on one axis, and rock under extreme pressure, plus it is thick and the bearings probably needed something a bit thicker as they are getting on.

Thanks for your help here folks and special thanks to, Richard (The Flying Kiwi} and Pierre (pbegin@burton) who went out of their way and PMed to assist with pics and sneaky tricks, along with modified tool ideas, pics and recommendations.

Road brake circuits flushed, coolant tank repair, oil n filter, getting new Michelin PR3/Pilot Road front next week and ready to roll into Summer.

All buttoned up now, wish I had a camera, but saving up for one :-).

Thank you all and well done
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:26 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

I looked at the specs for the Guard Dog last year, fine for them pivot bearings. May even be better than the old BMW Red Jelly hole/spline/bearing grease I have been using for so many years. Got to look it up a little more, seems also that Guard Dog is good for U-joints, I think I'll be making that my all purpose U-joints/bearings/splines lube.But I'll check with Bruno first on the driveshaft part and still buy the synthetic lube he recommends as I am close to a proper store today and the stuff is cheaper at the marine store.

Otherwise it never ends and I can't just run to the store and buy stuff like that,could be costly on gas . One product for this...one for that, on and on! Enough of that already in my little shop and a few more in the house to keep them warm.

Yes Mr.Merlin get a camera, don't leave it on the bike and take off, , mine is having problems focusing down them holes nowadays because of that.I think that was after an Ice Cream pic.....
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:23 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Nice one Merlin. Like many tasks on these bikes, they seem daunting at first, but as you work through service issues it becomes less challenging Thanks for the tip on the guard dog on the pivots, I will take that on.
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1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD
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1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Granddads ride
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:32 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Nice pics Paul!

Yep those circlip U.J's are nice, but cost, shipping and taxes for us in U.K put them outside my budget. Although I have had some success finding a U.K firm that can rebuild as pressed and staked joints. I am waiting until the next tire change to see if increased rear noise when carrying pillion is tire, road surface or U.J related.

Be careful you check the front boot is correctly clipped in place. If you spot any sign of water or rusting inside the swingarm, sort it because that is what can take out the bearings.

If you mess up the head of the journals getting them out, don't worry because even at dealer prices they are not too expensive.

What do we think of the mod. replacing those needle rollers with phosphor bronze bushes? I know there's a firm States side doing them. The logic apparently is needle rollers are not the best way to engineer a pivot moving small distances with loads concentrated on one point.

When I last looked at the costs, I felt it was cheaper to replace the stock needle bearings when they failed than buy the kit. I am on 45K and the bearings were o.k when I last checked.

P.S: I now have an cheap imported USB borescope (7mm). I have not used it on the bike yet, but did take some pics of my ageing teeth! Ugh.
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:01 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Vox writes;
Quote:
What do we think of the mod. replacing those needle rollers with phosphor bronze bushes? I know there's a firm States side doing them. The logic apparently is needle rollers are not the best way to engineer a pivot moving small distances with loads concentrated on one point.

When I last looked at the costs, I felt it was cheaper to replace the stock needle bearings when they failed than buy the kit. I am on 45K and the bearings were o.k when I last checked.

P.S: I now have an cheap imported USB borescope (7mm). I have not used it on the bike yet, but did take some pics of my ageing teeth! Ugh.
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I personally have read up a LOT on the pivot pin bearing issue. I do not think bronze bushes are the way to go as they are a very much used and obsolete technology that still bears all the pressure on two little bronze bushes contact points and bronze is softer than quality spindle bearings. Rubber Chicken Racing sells the kits and from the K11 site readings, they are hard to install and I can't see any advantage over a simple lube Guard Dog Moly or Honda 60 moly and an adjustment. Marking the pivots, a la pBegin, on the outside means you don't have to use a threadlocker and makes it real easy to do the maintenance.

Vox, if you can get it done, get them amalgams out as they slowly lose mass (mercury) into your system. They are well and truly a non used filling material here because of toxicity.

best

Merlin in oz
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:30 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

I also looked at the bronze bushings. Too many variables to make me confident in them as an alternative. Looks like sometimes they may require fitting on the pins, that is light sanding of the pins. Hum...that could make the pins useless if going back to bearings later.

Loctite also between the bushings and pins to prevent them from turning there instead of on the race. Another bad point, could make removal a pita....

Certainly looks like "if and when" they fail they will take the pins with them. Add a few too many $$$ to the repair cost.

There is a "how to" procedure online somewhere on the GS side of things for the bronze bushings installation. They guy who wrote it did not like what me and others had to say about them bushings.

Properly maintained bearings are the way to go. I had the same bearings on my 90GS, after their first failure I installed new ones, maintained them regularily and never looked back. They had about 60,000 miles by the time I sold the bike and still looked good.And that bike sure took a pounding on the rear end, I like the going fast on gravel roads. 3 OEM rear shocks blown in 25,000 miles.....

And they lasted without ever using a torque wrench on them. Just recently bought the wrench required to do them low torque specs accurately.

The ones on the RS, replaced at 25,000 miles still look like new they now have about +40,000 miles.Been maintained twice since I replaced them.Yes I use the torque wrench on them.
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:36 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Scanning through this thread as I'll be changing my LT's clutch next week and have already pulled the final drive which has 100k km on it, will be installing a spare I bought that has only 1200km on it from a triked LT.... so need to find out about "phasing".

Nothing really here about it, but I saw above mentioned several times that the left pin should be torqued to 7 or 9 Nm.
However in Chris Harris' excellent video on the procedure he emphatically states that the manuals are incorrect (even BMW's) and at BMW school they specified 10Nm, no more than 12Nm. He also restates it in the comments "Where BMW calls for 7 nm on a Para-Lever pin raise that to 10 nm and the bearing will last much longer."

Just thought I'd mention that as it seems to be a critical torque setting.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:55 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Chris writes;
Quote:
so need to find out about "phasing".

There is plenty of info on phasing and your LT may even have a flat spot on the spline so that it can only go in one way, which is pretty convenient.

The idea that a 7 or 8 or 9 or 10 Nm being 'right on' in the Pivot Pins fastening, needs to be tempered by the fact that torque settings are a bit vague at best, as in how much dry or wet lubricant is on the threads and whether or not your torque wrench is recently checked against a known value.

As I see it, if you want a long lived pivot pin bearing, check them often, ie the 6-12, 9-3 o'clock play test. If there is any movement nip them up slightly to remove it and it won't hurt to put in a little moly grease there at the same time.

Also note that the Chris Harris video has the caliper hanging by their hydraulic lines, this is a bit of a no-no, as it can cause kinking in the small diameter inner tubing.

Chris Harris is quite right about 'no loctite' in this video though, as marking the pin carefully and regular checking will enable you to adjust and service this area far more conveniently.

All the very best folks and enjoy the up and coming oz riding season. Most of us ride all the time as it is not often treacherously cold.

Merlin in Lismore, mid way rhs pacific coast oz
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:27 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Just a quick one to say thanks for this sticky

I have just replaced my pivot bearings at 45000 miles on my 98 K1200RS.
I had tried to book the bike in to two different BMW dealers here in SE England to diagnose my problem, however both dealers could not fit me in in less than 4 weeks!
I then took the plunge with the aid of this sticky and managed to undo the pivot pins quite easily after applying heat. I bought two pivot bearings at a cost of nearly 80, having failed to find a cheaper alternative.
On assembly, I damaged the torque arm bolt, not a problem, I will just pop down to the dealer and get another one, no such luck.
The bolt has to be ordered from Germany and will take 7 to 10 days to arrive, I can't believe that they do not carry such a simple and cheap part.
I have managed to source a temporary one from an engineering shop.
Thanks for your help
Flying Kiwi & Pbegin

Mark
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:59 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Nice work KMark,

We have great human resources here on I-BMW.

Thanks everyone for the help you have given me.

Merlin in Lismore Australia
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:16 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Them bearings are getting really expensive. I don't have a choice but to remove my rear drive once a year to lube my greasable driveshaft. So I get to clean, inspect and grease them bearings at the same time. Probably why mine still look like new at +40,000 miles. I expect way more milleage out of them. Maybe even way way more now that I use Ammsoil synthetic grease instead of the recommended BMW lube from back then.

That's in line with the same bearings I had on my paralever R100GS, nothing wrong with them at almost 60,000 miles. But then I also had to maintain them, frequent clutch spline lubes were the norm on them GSs so the rear drive had to come out every couple years.

As for the torque....I didn't even own a torque wrench that could go down to 7Nm. Hand torque just like I did back then with all them similar automotive front wheel bearings. Yes I use the torque wrench on the K but next time...I'll do it by hand and doublecheck the accuracy of my wrist later.

I usually paintmark all them parts for visual checks on the road.And good thing I do the fixed R/H side pin came loose on me after torquing with my Snap-On wrench. I still don't know why but I felt a little play in the rear,looked at the marks and they were off. Rode back home and tightened again and that was it.

Funny I reinstalled the RD last winter and the right torque was right at the earlier paint marks. I probably could have left the torque wrenches in the toolchest and not worry too much.

Let me see if I can get +80,000 miles out of them torqued at 7Nm. I'll let you guys know in a couple years...
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:43 AM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Pierre Begin writes;
Quote:
I'll let you guys know in a couple years...

Thanks for that,
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:07 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin geikie
Pierre Begin writes;

Thanks for that,

Want an update next winter?? I think I am going all in to look at the clutch. I need the specs if just to know that I can sit my arse on my bike all summer 2015. You know...I'll be retired.

So for now....I am waiting for the office to approve my leave for September. If all goes as planned I'll update the "pivot bearings longevity" at 85,000 kms. Maybe 90,000....

I'll just confuse them guys posting specs in one post in miles and kms the next....

I am on a really bad run of broken down equipment at work.....doesn't seem to stop. Glad my new boss knows about prevention vs replacement costs and will start the program and prove my points to the other crew with pics. Too late for me.....I'll be gone. I don't expect any problems with the bike, all the preventive maintenance is done for this year.
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2003 K1200 RS at 53 (Oh Yeah......over 6000RPM)
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:53 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Pierre writes;
Quote:
all the preventive maintenance is done for this year.

Pierre's motto 'Prevention is better than cure'

Right on with the update and I will be looking at putting in a new clutch slave. The new lambda sure did the trick with idling and economy.

I am thinking of putting a tiny grease nipple into the upper steering ball joint, what do you think?

Very glad to see you are 'retiring from work'. Then the 'real work' of enjoying yourself 24/7 will take over. A penny saved is a penny earned and I am sure you will be thoroughly enjoying your time. The bike will be glowing with all the attention

I have always been a bit scared of the clutch work but now I can borrow my Son's bike lift, it will be much easier.

All the very best folks, to you all. Superb riding here at the moment, dry dry dry

Merlin in Lismore midway rhs coast, a little inland, oz.

PS
Got the Division of Consumer Affairs, Tennessee Attorney General looking into my case with Automotive Scientific Inc (autoecu.com) in Rogersville TN.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:05 PM
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Re: K1200GT 04 40Kmi FD PIVOT PINS PLAY

Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin geikie

I am thinking of putting a tiny grease nipple into the upper steering ball joint, what do you think?


Not sure that is required. Someone that has seen them ball joints may pipe in, I think they are just a ball into a Teflon type socket? If so probably wouldn't need much of a lube, something like the Teflon Dry lube I use on the swivels for the steering dampener could do.

I had the front shock off for service last winter so the whole front end was pretty well offloaded. Easy(ier) to check for play then than with the whole weight of the wheel and shock pressure on. All passed as I tought but then I would have noticed something on the road had there been play anywhere.

The lower one with the rubber boot, I keep an eye on that there has been a few cracked boots, mostly on the GS side of things but I remember one on a K. If so there is some hope the boot is available separately, ebay maybe but probably listed as a GS part. Someone bought one for his K and was going to report back as to how it fitted his bike. Been a while....no reports.
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