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"K13S/R" Technical Q&A K1200S/R Technical Questions/Answers

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  #1  
Old 06-21-2018, 11:56 AM
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Scarecrow Scarecrow is offline
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Clutch drag - ‘The Clunk’.

Hello fellow mechanical junkies. I had an 06 K12R for six months before I decided the K bike was for me. It fit my body, as someone said, most bikes made him feel like he was the bear at the circus riding a trike. This bike also fits how I like to ride. So I sold it and found an 09 K13R with shift assist.

The clutch, the clutch , the clutch. The infamous ‘clunk’, not enough oil, too much oil, belleville spring and washer no yes, Barnett clutch plates, dimpled steels, bad springs, song and a prayer. After dealing with holes in the hope and the last iteration of the oil jet nozzle and the two vibration issues, the washer and the bearing (NK35/30-TV-XL), what is the state of the ‘clunk’? I’m about to do the washer, bearing and Barnett’s. Those vibrations I do notice and will be happy to see them diminished or eliminated. Because I haven’t explicitly read that the ‘clunk’ is eliminated, much of this seems to revolve around clutch drag. The oil delivery and amount seems to have arrived at a consentís that is correct. So it’s down to the space opened up when the clutch is pulled in and/or the individual plates not separating.

One member mentioned his clutch was slipping and discovered he had put the clutch slave cylinder ball with the flat side away from the pin. This would increase the space when the clutch is pulled in. It also leads to decrease pressure when the clutch is engaged. He didn’t mention if there was any difference in the 1st gear ‘clunk’.

The plates themselves, what do other manufacturers do? The suction between plates seems to be an issue. Dimples in Japanese plates, great, where do I get those to fit this clutch? Scoring the friction pads has been mentioned. Has anyone taken the original steels and scored them? Not across but in the direction of travel. The wear might be less than at 90* to travel. I’m thinking of wet/dry paper, what grade, not sure. Could be a compass with a scribe. Yes this likely would lead to a shorter life for the friction plates. But I would take that over the sound of a hammer being taken to the transmission. Even that sound is inconsistent. Once in a while there is this beautiful click when dropping into first. Those are the moments that encourage this pursuit of the expected - clunkless!

Maybe this is just a shot in the dark. I have no mechanical training. I love listening to the American physicist Richard Feynman. He had this wonderful ability to identify the critical points in problem solving. His goal was clarity and avoidance of distractions. My hats off to all the members that have explored and shared their findings.

One last observation, the shift assist shows changing gears can be seemless. So it’s my technique that needs attention when going through the gears without shift assist. But I’m not aware of any technique for going from neutral into first. It’s hard to accept that the pursuit of the clunkless is pointless.
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  #2  
Old 06-22-2018, 08:48 AM
SlicK1200S SlicK1200S is online now
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Re: Clutch drag - ‘The Clunk’.

For my 06 K bike, I shift it into first before starting the bike. If i'm at a long stop light, leave it in first, shut it off, or if it seems like a short light, hold the clutch in. For my RR, I rarely use shift assist from first to second. Short shift to second then give 'er.
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:07 PM
Bengarzy Bengarzy is offline
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Re: Clutch drag - ‘The Clunk’.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarecrow
Hello fellow mechanical junkies. I had an 06 K12R for six months before I decided the K bike was for me. It fit my body, as someone said, most bikes made him feel like he was the bear at the circus riding a trike. This bike also fits how I like to ride. So I sold it and found an 09 K13R with shift assist.

The clutch, the clutch , the clutch. The infamous ‘clunk’, not enough oil, too much oil, belleville spring and washer no yes, Barnett clutch plates, dimpled steels, bad springs, song and a prayer. After dealing with holes in the hope and the last iteration of the oil jet nozzle and the two vibration issues, the washer and the bearing (NK35/30-TV-XL), what is the state of the ‘clunk’? I’m about to do the washer, bearing and Barnett’s. Those vibrations I do notice and will be happy to see them diminished or eliminated. Because I haven’t explicitly read that the ‘clunk’ is eliminated, much of this seems to revolve around clutch drag. The oil delivery and amount seems to have arrived at a consentís that is correct. So it’s down to the space opened up when the clutch is pulled in and/or the individual plates not separating
One member mentioned his clutch was slipping and discovered he had put the clutch slave cylinder ball with the flat side away from the pin. This would increase the space when the clutch is pulled in. It also leads to decrease pressure when the clutch is engaged. He didn’t mention if there was any difference in the 1st gear ‘clunk’.

The plates themselves, what do other manufacturers do? The suction between plates seems to be an issue. Dimples in Japanese plates, great, where do I get those to fit this clutch? Scoring the friction pads has been mentioned. Has anyone taken the original steels and scored them? Not across but in the direction of travel. The wear might be less than at 90* to travel. I’m thinking of wet/dry paper, what grade, not sure. Could be a compass with a scribe. Yes this likely would lead to a shorter life for the friction plates. But I would take that over the sound of a hammer being taken to the transmission. Even that sound is inconsistent. Once in a while there is this beautiful click when dropping into first. Those are the moments that encourage this pursuit of the expected - clunkless!

Maybe this is just a shot in the dark. I have no mechanical training. I love listening to the American physicist Richard Feynman. He had this wonderful ability to identify the critical points in problem solving. His goal was clarity and avoidance of distractions. My hats off to all the members that have explored and shared their findings.

One last observation, the shift assist shows changing gears can be seemless. So it’s my technique that needs attention when going through the gears without shift assist. But I’m not aware of any technique for going from neutral into first. It’s hard to accept that the pursuit of the clunkless is pointless.

My K was a horror engaging first when hot, noiseless when cold, my theory was if it can be silent when cold.........
The 1300 has gone now but I engineered my way round all the nasties until I had a bike I was happy to ride all day. Got a 1200 RS boxer now........... nice but not very exciting, most everyday cars have just about got it beat at top end but it handles extremely well and is comfortable now I’m a bit more upright.......... can’t have it all I suppose....
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Old 07-12-2018, 11:44 PM
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Scarecrow Scarecrow is offline
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Re: Clutch drag - ‘The Clunk’.

I have an 09 R12R next to the 09 K13R. She is there’s for all you noted, comfort, reliability and good handling. I bought her brand new and runs like a top.
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Old 07-13-2018, 10:42 AM
Dusty952 Dusty952 is offline
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Re: Clutch drag - ‘The Clunk’.

We should get together for a coffee I live at Mill Bay and have done mods to my K1200R clutch. I can talk a lot faster than I can type. I PM'ed my phone number.

Dusty
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