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"KRS/GT" Technical Q&A K1200RS/GT Technical Questions/Answers

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  #181  
Old 05-10-2013, 07:54 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Quote:
Originally Posted by TherionKRS
I live in Wisconsin. Can you recommend any independent mechanics? Or know if anyone has compiled a database of guys that do BMW work independently?

Well, I'll be in WI in July, attending a rather small aviation event held near Oshkosh. I doubt you want to wait that long! Let me know if I can help in the meantime.

Carry on!
Mark
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  #182  
Old 07-23-2013, 04:21 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Hi Folks, I am embarking on the "seal job" having replaced the clutch slave and both seals - slave and FD output - two years ago with trouble free results. I figured I'd had enough of playing "chance" every summer so I've leapt in as a preventative measure and this is where I'm at:
Swing arm, drive shaft and cross member out and air box is off. Exhaust etc off.
Question - Clymer says to remove injection system but can find no reference to anyone here doing this. I had the injection system on the bench two years ago and did all the usual checks/replacements including the breather, so don't need to go there again so soon.
Anything else I need to be aware of?
I am about ready to look at hoisting the frame etc after some wiring disconnects.
As usual, thanks to Greg for his excellent thread and all who have contributed to it. I look forward to posting a successful job well done in the spring. And Pierre, that viton O ring you sent me is finally going where it belongs
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  #183  
Old 07-23-2013, 04:41 AM
voxmagna voxmagna is offline
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

It has been a while and memory is getting rusty. Because so much was said about the dreaded engine breather hoses going rotten I thought I would 'clear' the top of the motor anyway and do those. Two of my hoses were badly cracked and leaking oil. The more clutter around there the less you can see when lifting/replacing the frame.

I know I cleared away the inlet snorkel, air filter box and couplings, but left the throttle rail on complete. When they say 'injection system', the injectors can come off all dangling on the fuel rail if I remember right and it is not a huge job.

Sorry, I cannot be more precise, but you soon find out what else needs to be moved when the frame is ready to be lifted. Just watch you do not stretch those front engine mounts.
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  #184  
Old 07-23-2013, 05:57 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Thanks Vox, I just cannot see any reason why the injector bodies need to be removed. It will certainly be gently, gently raising when the time comes, probably tomorrow. Everything is loose other than the front mounts as I have not got to those yet. "Special tools" will certainly be creative and I will be relying on others to steer me in the right direction. Kiwi inventiveness is alive and well down here!
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Current rides:
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID, Factory GT heated seat. 170,000km
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, fully restored. 74,000km SOLD
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Granddads ride
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  #185  
Old 07-23-2013, 07:22 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Kiwi
Thanks Vox, I just cannot see any reason why the injector bodies need to be removed. It will certainly be gently, gently raising when the time comes, probably tomorrow. Everything is loose other than the front mounts as I have not got to those yet. "Special tools" will certainly be creative and I will be relying on others to steer me in the right direction. Kiwi inventiveness is alive and well down here!

About the air-intake and throttle-bodies area, the main issues when lowering the engine (or raising the frame) is the clearance needed. Just behind the air-intake #4 (rearmost cylinder), you will hit the aluminium frame. At the minimum, you need to remove the air-box.

Other issue is the wiring going into the injector rail: when the rear of the engine is lowered everything will be tight. For me, I choose to remove the whole thing aside, leaving the wiring connected to the injectors. See attached picture....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg K1200RS_Sailor_Seal-clutch-job 004.jpg (157.3 KB, 87 views)
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  #186  
Old 07-23-2013, 07:31 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Hi just airbox and as vox says loosen engine mounts , set jubilee clips up so u can screw them up on assembly i had one stuck behind throttle quadrant , i put new bearings etc in alternator and brushes in starter while your in there, Len
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  #187  
Old 07-23-2013, 08:36 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

The few things I found to be potentially problematic with when you lower the engine. There is a sensor on the end of the fuel rail that the wiring will be to short when you lower the engine. You will need to pull apart it's electrical disconnect and get it some additional slack. The starter and generator wires are VERY short and will need to be disconnected once you start to lower things almost immediately (hope you have small fingers).

When you go to raise the motor back in place, the large cast aluminum side pieces may stop the engine from going straight up into place. They held up the motor also when I went to lower it. I had to use a vibrating saw to shave a 1/8" off other right side one to allow the main upper mounting bolt to align when raising the motor. This should become clearer when you start to lower the engine. If the motor hangs up and doesn't drop down, it is being held up by the right side aluminum piece. They are very rigid and won't pry out of the way.

Other than that, it's a lot of work that's not terribly difficult to do, but VERY time consuming. Greg information made it doable for me without to much hassle.
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  #188  
Old 07-23-2013, 09:26 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Kiwi,

why would you need to pull the motor off to change the rear main seal?
When I did the initial clutch/o-ring job there was no need to pull the motor off or the injectors.
You changed the breather hose two years ago.
No need to undo too much for the seal and o-ring job.

And if you need to make a tool to unscrew the main clutch bolt, I made one of aluminium for about $5 and I can send you a plan.

Have fun. It's a long job but it brings back good memories. Now my bike runs like new.

Cheers
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  #189  
Old 07-23-2013, 10:02 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

I just did the job 6 months ago. Injectors don't need to be removed, but the airbox does. As you are slowly lowering the motor (or raising the frame), check for any wires getting tight that need to be unbolted. Starter and alternator wires for sure. Keep lowering and keep checking. Make sure the radiator mounts are loose and all will be well. You can drop it pretty far with those things done.

George
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  #190  
Old 07-23-2013, 10:25 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissinot



Have fun. It's a long job but it brings back good memories. Now my bike runs like new.

Cheers


Now Jacques, if you only had new shocks...
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  #191  
Old 07-23-2013, 12:38 PM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Kiwi
And Pierre, that viton O ring you sent me is finally going where it belongs

About time....maple syrup would have been expired by now. Viton should be fine.

I used cooking equipment to make the clutch retainer required to remove the center nut. Namely old cutting board made out of 3/4" UHMW. Only took a few minutes of cutting/drilling and shaping.

Lousy material for cutting boards the UHMW, too slippery and increases the chances of cutting fingers, , but sure makes nice jigs and tools.

Next time I start the planer, I'll throw it in there and make it look nice not moldy looking from old food residues.



Only valid reason to drain the coolant and remove the rad(s) is to loosen the nut on the left side engine mount. I loosened mine, it just unscrewed without retaining the nut. Tightening I could see the nut from the top down so used a long screwdriver to jam it and then tightened to torque.
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  #192  
Old 07-23-2013, 03:28 PM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Wow, so many replies! You guys rock! Off to work right now, but will reply in detail this evening.
Thanks again
R
__________________
Current rides:
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID, Factory GT heated seat. 170,000km
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, fully restored. 74,000km SOLD
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Granddads ride
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  #193  
Old 07-24-2013, 02:47 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

I have shifted my seal replacement to a new thread - Flying Kiwi's garage road trip to the clutch seal
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Current rides:
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID, Factory GT heated seat. 170,000km
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, fully restored. 74,000km SOLD
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Granddads ride
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  #194  
Old 07-24-2013, 08:26 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

John,

you're despicable

Shocks are in my plans for the future. For now, hard to believe but the bike runs fine for what I do with it. Likely next year at the SSR I will have new shocks.

Cheers
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  #195  
Old 07-24-2013, 08:54 AM
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissinot
John,

you're despicable

Shocks are in my plans for the future. For now, hard to believe but the bike runs fine for what I do with it. Likely next year at the SSR I will have new shocks.

Cheers
Jacques, BTDT with shocks on both my bikes...I tells it like it is...if you are successfully compensating for them now, then with them, you might be MotoGP ready! Seriously, the sooner the better, and I know they are on your list.

I look forward to seeing you again at SSR and having you tell me what a difference they made!

FWIW, my KRS Ohlins only have 3000 miles on them, mostly from the BRPR rally...prior to leaving, my suspension was tuned at a race shop. After the trip, which I did two-up with my daughter, they loosened up noticeably. After conversations with the Ohlins authorized shop, and with tech support at Ohlins, Ohlins agreed to rebuild them under warranty. Why would this take place if the suspension were not such a critical issue? Dunno. Maybe I got lucky by taking the conversation through the proper channels?
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Current Bikes-The Perfect Combination
'15 R12GSAW 'The I-BMW Pussy Bike'
'09 K1300S 'fits me like a glove' with Wilbers
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Past Bikes
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  #196  
Old 04-13-2018, 01:21 PM
Rob955i Rob955i is offline
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Re: GregRS's journey into seal territory

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeeter
Ahh the darned starter... I put mine back together with the magnets turned 180 degrees.
I learned the hard way that the starter spins in reverse if the housing/magnets get turned 180 degrees. Imagine my shock when I went to fire the bike up after getting it all back together & hearing the starter just whir... Back in I went to repeat 75% of the work.

If you're not sure of your starter magnet orientation, I also learned that you can bench test the starter to ensure that it spins in the direction that the starter clutches need it to be. Great job on this write up!

I found that the housing doesnt fit quite right when its turned 180 degrees. I recently cleaned my starter and marked it up before disassembly but even though I had it marked up I was still paranoid about having the rotation right.
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