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Old 10-12-2006, 03:59 PM
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How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

I Know you are supposed to take bike to dealer to bleed integral ABS systems,but does anyone know correct sequence to bleed brakes(6 nipples on ABS unit)

Last edited by locus : 01-01-2008 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 10-12-2006, 04:06 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200Rs Brakes

Edit 8/12/17: See .pdf file attached to the post below for pictures

http://www.i-bmw.com/showpost.php?p=781417&postcount=7

Check out the procedure from the i-bmw Archives.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary
K1200RS/GT EVO Brake Bleeding
Gary Hollinger 7/15/04

These directions describe how I did the wheel circuit and control circuit bleed on my '02 K1200RS with EVO brakes. These directions are long because I intended them to be used by someone who has never done any brake work before (like me). Use these directions at your own risk, please follow all safety precautions when they appear. All relevant Attention: Note: and Warnings: from the manual will be included in these instructions. The service schedule states you should bleed the wheel circuits yearly and the control circuit/ABS pump and clutch circuits every 2 years. I used Speedbleeders http://www.speedbleeder.com/ on my front calipers because they don?t allow backflow. This allows you to use the ABS pumps to do the bleeding. Using the pumps is very fast and effective at pushing air bubbles out of the system and allows this to be a one man job.

The Integral ABS brake system has four independent brake fluid circuits.
These are drained, and bled separately.
The K1200RS/GT manual calls for using the ABS pump with the following warning:
When performing maintenance and repair work on the BMW Integral ABS, avoid rapid and forceful pumping of the brakes.

Special thanks to Mark Bohn for his wheel circuit directions and Paul Francis for deciphering the ABS pump sequence. Without their work I doubt if I would have undertaken this project. These directions are partially written using directions supplied by them and the remaining information from the BMW manual and my own experience.

Warnings
Read these instructions thoroughly before you begin.
Obviously, any work on your motorcycle brakes must be done carefully. Mistakes can be
hazardous to your health. Fortunately, the ABS III system has warning lights to help you
diagnose many brake system faults before you ride. See your owner?s manual on how to
interpret these lights if needed.
Brake fluid damages paint very quickly. Pumping the front hand lever with the reservoir
cap off usually squirts fluid out toward the windscreen and dashboard. You?ll want to go
overboard on covering painted surfaces.
It is unlikely that brake fluid is good for your health (absorption through the skin can be damaging to your kidneys). I like to wear surgical-type gloves to avoid contact with brake fluid (or any other bike-related fluids for that matter).
Be sure to read the Check Your Work section after you complete any or all parts of
this document.

Tools and Supplies

BMW special tool part # 34 2 532 $55.00 from your dealer or a suitable home made substitute ABS pump

T-45 Torx socket front calipers
5mm Hex bit socket grub screw
8mm Hex bit socket rear calipers

7mm open end wrench ABS pump
8mm open end wrench BMW front bleeders
10mm open end wrench battery posts
11mm open end wrench BMW rear bleeder
12mm open end wrench to hold grub screw socket (vise grips work too)

5/16" open end wrench front Speed bleeders
3/8" open end wrench rear Speed bleeders

Phillips head screw drivers short and long
Tools to remove fairing pieces

3mm hex socket or allen wrench if luggage rack is installed
17mm socket for rear wheel lug nuts

Small needle nose pliers or forceps to attach and remove tubing on ABS pump bleeders

3/8" drive ratchet,
3/8" inch breaker bar to remove the rear wheel
1/2" drive ratchet or a 1/2" drive breaker bar, 1/2" drive x 6 inch extension
Torque wrench

2 cans (8oz) of DOT 4 brake fluid
2 x 60cc syringes, about 12 inches of silicon tubing to attach to syringes
Speed bleeder SB1010S for the clutch and brake control circuit bleed.
Speed bleeder bag and/or an empty container with screw on lid for the used fluid.

9ft x 12ft 0.9mil plastic sheet to cover bike. This can be found at Wal-Mart for a dollar.

Lots of towels, a small can of compressed air - available anywhere computer parts are sold. A couple of 8" zip ties.


Prep Work

Place the motorcycle on its center stand so that it is level. Note: if you leave the side stand deployed you won?t activate the fuel pump when switching on the ignition.
Remove the seat.
Remove the luggage carriers if installed and remove the right and left rear fairing panels. Note: if you have a GIVI rack installed you do not have to remove it. Remove the 2 rear screws in the BMW luggage carrier. Then loosen the front GIVI rack bolt that also goes through the front of the BWM luggage carrier. This should allow you room to remove the side fairing pieces.
Remove fasteners securing coolant expansion tank, move it out of your way from the reservoir.
The battery is only removed for the ABS pump control circuit bleeding.
If you wish to install Speed bleeders, install all of them now. You need 1-8mm in each front caliper and 1-10mm in the rear caliper. These will remain installed in the calipers after the job is finished making next year?s bleed that much faster.
I installed one in the rear caliper, but later it leaked and I removed it. You can do the rear wheel circuit without a Speed bleeder, but make sure you have one for the clutch/brake filler adapters.
Remember, if you are installing Speed bleeders: since the system is not closed, and the calipers are below the level of the reservoir, when you remove the stock bleed screw, the brake fluid will leak out. Just wrap towels around the calipers, quickly swap the stock screw for the SB--being careful to not cross-thread it in the process--and carefully wipe off the spilled brake fluid. The first few threads on the Speed bleeders do not have any thread sealant on them for this reason. Tighten the SB down carefully, the bleed screws only call for 7Nm of torque to fully seat.



[Integral ABS] Bleeding front wheel circuit
(Inspection IV) annual

Attention: Do not allow brake fluid to come into contact with painted parts of the motorcycle, brake fluid destroys paint. Use only brake fluid from an unopened container.

Attention: Integral brakes, the rear brake must be ready for use. (all the calipers must be either properly installed (with pads!), or removed and securely shimmed! If you switch the bike on and touch either control, the pistons will otherwise be slammed together!)

Attention: fully push the brake pistons back only when the cap has been removed from the wheel-circuit reservoir.





PHOTO 1

1. Remove cap of front wheel circuit reservoir. (see photo 1) Use one of the 60cc syringes with about 6 inches of tubing attached and draw off the old brake fluid from the front wheel-circuit reservoir.
2. Push the front caliper pistons back. If you are going to change front brake pads, do it now. Installing new pads will retract the pistons back almost the entire way. If no new pads are installed, remove both front calipers and push the pistons back fully, both ends of the pad need to be back.
3. Shim the pads/pistons open, I used wood shim stock.


PHOTO 2

4. Draw off the remaining old fluid from the front wheel-circuit reservoir. (Photo 1)
(After pushing the pistons all the way out, the brake fluid in the lines will be forced back into the reservoir. This is why you draw off the fluid first--to prevent an overflow.)
Use the other (clean) 60cc syringe to fill the reservoir with new fluid to the MAX line.
5. Attach your Speed bleeder bag or attach tubing to the left caliper bleeder and put the other end of tubing in a jar. Unscrew left front Speed bleeder about ? turn. See note below for using BMW bleed screw.
6. Switch on ignition ? wait until the test mode is complete. Gently pull the front brake lever until fluid comes out of the front caliper clear and bubble free.
Note: If you are not using Speed bleeders you MUST gently pull the brake lever first, then open the bleeder, you must close the bleeder before you release the brake lever ? all while watching to make sure the reservoir does not empty. (A two man job for the front wheel circuits)
Warning: Watch the fluid level in the reservoir. If the brake-fluid level in the reservoir does fall below hose level, the wheel circuit must be refilled at the brake caliper and bled once again.
When the reservoir level reaches the MIN mark, release the brake lever and refill the reservoir to MAX and repeat until fluid is clear and bubble free.

7. Turn off the ignition, close the Speed bleeder and move the hose to the right caliper. Repeat step 6 for the right caliper. Warning: do not let the reservoir level drop below hose level. Turn off the ignition when done, close the right Speed bleeder and remove the hose.
8. Wrap a towel around the bleeders to prevent fluid blowing onto unwanted items then blow out any remaining fluid from the tip of the bleeders with a can of compressed air. This way you?ll know if you have any leaks later.
9. If you shimmed the pads, remove the shims and reinstall the front calipers (Tightening torque: Brake caliper to fork tube ...... 30 Nm). Now turn on the ignition again, let the ABS cycle and then pull the front brake lever. This will seat the pads. Now top off the front wheel reservoir (photo 1) and replace the cap hand tight.



[Integral ABS] Replacing brake fluid in the rear wheel circuit/bleeding
(Inspection IV) annual

If you are going to remove the rear caliper to shim the pads/pistons back, you must remove your rear wheel also. First remove the two mounting screws securing the rear caliper ? leave the caliper in place. Next remove the 5 lug nuts on the rear wheel and pull the wheel off the hub, let it lean against the exhaust can. Now you have room to remove the rear caliper, then you can roll the rear wheel out of your way.

Attention: During the replacement process, the brake fluid level must not drop below the hose level or else air will be drawn into the brake system.
Warning: If the brake-fluid level in the reservoir does fall below hose level, the wheel circuit must be refilled at the brake caliper and bled once again.


1. Remove the cap from the rear wheel circuit reservoir (see photo 1) and draw off the old brake fluid using the ?dirty? 60cc syringe.
2. Push the rear caliper pistons back. If you are going to change rear brake pads, do it now. Installing new pads will retract the pistons back almost the entire way.
3. Shim the pads/pistons open (see photo 2)
4. Draw off the remaining old fluid from the rear reservoir.
Use the other (clean) 60cc syringe to fill the reservoir with new fluid to the MAX line.
5. Attach your Speed bleeder bag or attach tubing to the bleeder put the other end of tubing in a jar. Unscrew the Speed bleeder about ? turn. See note below for using BMW bleed screw.
6. Switch on ignition ? wait until the test mode is complete. Very gently press the footbrake lever until the pump just starts up. Pump out the brake fluid with virtually no pressure to begin with, then vary the brake pressure.
When the reservoir level reaches the MIN mark, release the brake lever and refill the reservoir to MAX and repeat until fluid is clear and bubble free.

Note: If you are NOT using Speed bleeders you MUST gently push the brake pedal first, then open the bleeder. You must close the bleeder before you release the brake pedal ? all while watching to make sure the reservoir does not empty. (A one man job for the rear wheel circuit)
Note: The higher the brake pressure the faster the fluid is pumped through the system, which means that the level in the reservoir drops all the more rapidly.
Warning: Watch the fluid level in the reservoir. If the brake-fluid level in the reservoir does fall below hose level, the wheel circuit must be refilled at the brake caliper and bled once again.

7. Close the bleeder and remove the hose. Blow out any remaining fluid from the tip of the bleeder with a can of compressed air.
8. If you shimmed the pads, remove the shims and reinstall the rear caliper, don?t forget to install the rear wheel now. Roll the rear wheel in place and rest it against the exhaust. Install the caliper, then the rear wheel to the hub. (Tightening torque: rear brake caliper ..... 40 Nm). Turn on the ignition again, let the ABS cycle and then push the rear brake pedal. This will seat the pads. Now top off the rear wheel reservoir and replace the cap hand tight.

This completes the annual wheel circuit bleeding.
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Last edited by Rick : 08-12-2017 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 10-12-2006, 04:17 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200Rs Brakes

Continued:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary
The next phase is to bleed the clutch, brake filler adapter and ABS pump control circuits. For this part you will need to remove your battery to access all the bleed screws on the ABS pump. The control circuits are bled more like conventional brakes, i.e. not using the ABS pump, so you DO NOT turn the bike on for this part (or use a Mighty-Vac).
Also for this phase you will need to cover the front of the bike to ensure no brake fluid gets on the windscreen, dash or fairing pieces.


Changing the clutch fluid/bleeding the clutch system
(Inspection IV) every 2 years
READ THROUGH THESE DIRECTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING

1. Turn the handlebars to the right. Cover the entire front of the bike except for the clutch reservoir.


PHOTO 3
2. Wrap the reservoir with a towel, take off reservoir cover with rubber diaphragm, clean and set aside.
3. Pump the clutch lever slowly, but fully to pump any air out of the line (you may see bubbles float to the top). Be careful that brake fluid doesn't squirt out of the snifter hole at the bottom of the reservoir especially later on as the fluid level drops and there is less fluid covering the hole.
4. Using the ?dirty? syringe, draw off the old fluid and clean out the reservoir. Top up the reservoir with fresh fluid using the ?clean? syringe. There is a stepped, raised indexing mark on the forward inside sidewall of the reservoir. Fill the fluid level to this mark (see photo 4). Attention: When adding brake fluid, do not allow it to enter the holes for the reservoir lid screws.


PHOTO 4

5. The clutch is bled through the filler adapter that the factory used to fill the system. You will need to locate the adapter on the right side. Start at the footbrake pedal and looking up just under the main right side fairing you will see a hose that terminates and is attached to the frame with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie and pull the hose down. Slide the outer rubber spacer up the hose to reveal the grub screw/filler adapter.



Grub Screw

Inside the filler adapter behind the grub screw on the end is a check ball valve. The valve only allows fluid/air to flow into the hose (factory fill). To get fluid out in a clean, tidy manner we need to install a Speed bleeder (SB1010S). The Speed bleeder conical tip has a line scribed on it. File down the point to create a flat tip, but do not file beyond the scribed line. Now remove the grub screw and install the Speed bleeder until seated, have plenty of towels handy just in case. Take your time and DO NOT cross thread or strip the filler adapter.

Note: The clutch and brake control circuits can be done with any 10mm bleeder including the BMW one you may have removed from the rear caliper if you installed a Speed bleeder there. BUT it will make the job much more difficult because you have to open and close the bleeder while under pressure of pulling the corresponding lever. I highly recommend using a Speed bleeder for the clutch and brake filler adapters.
6. Connect the tubing and open the Speed bleeder 1/4 turn.
7. Set the clutch lever to position "4" (furthest out). Slowly squeeze the clutch lever until you see the snifter hole closes (fluid initially squirts back out the hole in the bottom of the reservoir), then squeeze the clutch lever fully to the end of travel.
8. Slowly release the clutch lever and then repeat until the fluid is clear and bubble free.
Attention: While bleeding the system, do not allow the brake fluid level to drop below the MIN mark, as otherwise air will be drawn into the clutch system. Bleed the system again if this happens.
9. Fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid to the upper marking ring. Replace the cover, then use compressed air to make sure no fluid is in the screw holes before replacing the 4 screws.
10. Remove the Speed bleeder and replace the grub screw (Tightening torque: Grub screw at filler adapter ..... 10 Nm). Attach the line back to the frame using a zip tie.




[Integral ABS] Replacing brake fluid in the front filler adapter
(Inspection IV) every 2 years

The ABS pump/control circuit consists of the Filler adapter (1), front dosing cylinders (2), front integral circuits (2) and front control circuits (2). We will bleed the filler adapter first, then the other six bleeders in sequence. Warning: When changing and bleeding the control circuit brake fluid, do not use vacuum extraction.

1. Place the motorcycle on its side stand and turn the handlebars all the way to the left.
Repeatedly and slowly pull the front brake lever lightly to expel air from brake master cylinder. Place the motorcycle on its center stand so that it is level. Turn the handle bar to the left. Cover the entire front of the bike except for the brake reservoir.
2. Wrap the reservoir with a towel, take off reservoir cover with rubber diaphragm, clean and set aside. Shift the brake lever to position 4.
3. Pump the brake lever slowly, but fully to pump any air out of the line. Be careful that the brake fluid doesn't squirt out of the snifter hole at the bottom of the reservoir.
4. Using the ?dirty? syringe, draw off the old fluid and clean out the reservoir. Top up the reservoir to the stepped, raised indexing mark with fresh, clean fluid using the ?clean? syringe.
Attention: When adding brake fluid, do not allow it to enter the holes for the reservoir lid screws.
5. On the left side of the bike locate the brake system filler adapter next to the ABS pump. (see photo 5)


PHOTO 5

6. Remove the grub screw and install the SB1010S Speed bleeder just like you did in the clutch filler adapter.
7. Attach tubing, then open the Speed bleeder 1/4 turn. Slowly squeeze the brake lever until the brake light switch clicks - snifter hole closed (fluid initially squirts back out the hole in the bottom of the reservoir), then squeeze the brake lever to the end of travel.
8. Slowly release the brake lever and then repeat until the fluid is clear and bubble free.
Attention: While bleeding the system, do not allow the brake fluid level to drop below the MIN mark, as otherwise air will be drawn into the clutch system. Bleed the system again if this happens.
9. Refill the brake reservoir with brake fluid to the stepped, raised indexing mark.
10. Remove the Speed bleeder and replace the grub screw. (Tightening torque: Grub screw at filler adapter ....10 Nm)



[Integral ABS] Replacing brake fluid in the front control circuit/bleeding
(Inspection IV) every 2 years

Regulations for bleeding the ABS pump front control circuits:
1. Pull the brake lever slowly until the brake light switch clicks (snifter hole closed).
2. Open the bleed screw.
3. Pull the brake lever fully and close the bleed screw.
4. Release the brake lever slowly.
5. Repeat steps 1 to 4 until the brake fluid is clear and bubble free.

In sequence, bleed the:
front dosing cylinder (F1),
front integral circuit (F2)
front control circuit (F3) and,
again, front dosing cylinder (F1)


PHOTO 6

You will need BWM tool part # 34 2 532 $55.00 from your dealer or a suitable home made substitute. Warning: When changing and bleeding the control circuit brake fluid, do not use vacuum extraction.


1. Remove the dust caps from the 3 front circuit bleeders on the ABS pump (see photo 6). Follow the sequence listed and use the regulations for the procedure to bleed the front control circuits. You will use the special tool on the dosing cylinder bleeder and integral circuit bleeder. Use a 7mm box end wrench on the control circuit bleeder. Attach the tool first, then the tubing. Bleed each one in order until clear and bubble free. Be sure to bleed the dosing cylinder bleeder first and again last.

Attention: While bleeding the system, do not allow the brake fluid level to drop below the MIN mark, as otherwise air will be drawn into the clutch system. Bleed the system again if this happens.
2. When finished, top off the front brake reservoir to the MIN mark. Replace the cover making sure no fluid is in the screw holes before replacing the 4 screws.
Note: The brake-fluid level is independent of brake pad wear.



FLUID LEVEL

[Integral ABS] Specified level at handlebar fitting not below ....MIN (top edge of the marking ring)


YOU'RE ALMOST DONE!


[Integral ABS] Replacing brake fluid in the rear control circuit/bleeding
(Inspection IV) every 2 years


Remember where your rear brake reservoir is?(see photo 1) Remove the cap, then remove the 3 remaining dust caps from the bleeders on the ABS pump.
Using the following regulation and sequence, bleed the rear control circuits. Watch the level in the reservoir. Warning: When changing and bleeding the control circuit brake fluid, do not use vacuum extraction.

Regulation for bleeding the ABS pump rear control circuits:
1. Push the brake lever slowly until the brake light switch clicks.
2. Open the bleed screw.
3. Push the brake lever fully and close the bleed screw.
4. Release the brake lever slowly.
5. Repeat steps 1 to 4 until the brake fluid is clear and bubble free.

In sequence, bleed the:
rear dosing cylinder (R1),
rear integral circuit (R2)
rear control circuit (R3) and,
again, rear dosing cylinder (R1) (See photo 6)

Top off the rear reservoir to the MAX mark and replace the cap hand tight.
Now pull the front brake lever fully and depress the rear brake lever fully several times checking for any leaks at the bleeders on the ABS pump.
Replace the battery. Use compressed air to clean and dry out the bleeders (remember to wrap them with a towel to catch the spray.

CHECKING YOUR WORK

Double check that all fittings have been tightened to specified torque and all spilled fluid is cleaned up.
Check all fluid levels at the 4 reservoirs again.
Switch on ignition ? wait until the test mode is complete. Pull the front brake lever and push the rear brake pedal together fully for several seconds then release and switch off. Check all 9 bleeders for leaks (2 front, 1 rear, 6 ABS pump)
Replace all 9 dust covers on the bleeders.
Check that the bike has residual braking function. This is the ?barely-there? braking you
have with the power off. Do this in your shop pushing the bike around by hand.
Ride the bike very carefully for a short distance on level ground and act as if you have no
brakes, because you may not. The warning lights should go out after a short distance. If they do, all is well. If not, check your manual for interpretation of what the blinking lights mean.

Whewwww, I'm done.

Now take the $350.00 still in your wallet and go buy yourself something nice.

Gary
Fairfield, CA
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Last edited by Rick : 10-13-2006 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 10-12-2006, 04:18 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200Rs Brakes

Special tool required:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary
Here are a couple of pics of the "special tool" that someone made for me.
Hopefully they will help others see what is needed so they can make their own. Start with a 12pt 7mm box end wrench.









And here are a couple of images with the tool on one of the bleeders, the rear integral circuit bleeder. This is the one bleeder that is the hardest to fit the tool onto. You must grind off both the thickness and circumference of the head of the tool to get it to fit well.








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Old 10-12-2006, 07:12 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

I'll take mine to the dealer thank you very much!
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:29 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

HOLY CRAP!!!

I think I'll keep my '99!
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:45 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

I'm tired after reading (scanning) that write-up. I forgot how much labor went into that. I'm not looking forward to doing it again soon.
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Old 10-13-2006, 11:47 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

I find writing the check to pay Federal Taxes MUCH harder to do!
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Old 10-13-2006, 11:51 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Yes, anyone can bleed their brakes, yeah right.
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Old 10-13-2006, 02:03 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Hi, great directions on bleeding the brake system. I hope to use them. I have one question. I thought the new systems used BMW brake fluid Mineral oil not DOT 4 brake fluid. thanks beech
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Old 10-13-2006, 04:24 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Had a mechanic bleed the brakes this fall. bike was breaking fine ABS were down. Turns out you need the moditec computer to reset the breaks ....cost me an extra 120$ at the dealer next time.
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Old 10-13-2006, 04:48 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricM
Turns out you need the moditec computer to reset the breaks ....cost me an extra 120$ at the dealer next time.
That's incorrect. The only thing the 'MoDiTec' does is a 'bleed test', which is just a pressure test, or the equivalent of squeezing your brake levers and making sure they work. Anybody can do that without a MoDiTec. I've bled my brakes 3 times already, and zero problems, or dash lights, or anything like that.

Gentlemen, bleeding your brakes might be a bit intimidating the first time, but it's a piece of cake afterwards. And the sense of accomplishment after doing it? Priceless .
If somebody doesn't feel mechanically up to the challenge, volunteer your house for a 'tech daze' party and learn from a 'pro'. I do the entire bleeding myself, including the clutch (squeezing it, not by vacuum), but it'd be more fun with company for sure. I'd gladly teach people how to do it when doing mine, but nobody lives remotely near here. Later gang.
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Old 10-14-2006, 09:48 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

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Originally Posted by EricM
bike was breaking fine ABS were down. Turns out you need the moditec computer to reset the breaks ....cost me an extra 120$

What do you mean, "ABS were down"? Were they working fine or not? I too have bled the brakes and have had no problems with the system. Just curious if there is something I need to be careful of the next time.
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Old 10-29-2006, 09:45 PM
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Thumbs up Re: I bled K1200GT ABS III Brakes

I followed the proceedure today (without the speed bleeders). Took me most of the day but it works - excellent directions, no problems, good brakes and some nasty looking fluid removed!

Mark
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Old 10-29-2006, 11:35 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

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Originally Posted by Beech
Hi, great directions on bleeding the brake system. I hope to use them. I have one question. I thought the new systems used BMW brake fluid Mineral oil not DOT 4 brake fluid. thanks beech
Brakes NEVER use mineral oil! It will never stand the heat. All BMW bikes use DOT 4 in the brake system.

The clutch hydraulics on many of the newer ones DO use mineral oil, since the clutch hydraulic system is not exposed to the high heat that the brake system is. Oil is a much better lubricant than DOT4. Because the clutch is used constantly (at full travel each time), the clutch seals tend to wear relatively quickly. Using a special hydraulic oil lubricates the clutch system better, and results in much longer life of the rubber piston seals.
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:41 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

For those that prefer to print out the directions Rick copied and pasted from Gary, here is the original pdf:
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:12 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

The wrench you show is it a thing you buy or was it made of a wrench and sock
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:23 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

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The wrench you show is it a thing you buy or was it made of a wrench and sock

Either. BMW offers a "special tool", but there are many here who made their own.
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Old 12-19-2006, 07:08 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

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Originally Posted by majicdoor
The wrench you show is it a thing you buy or was it made of a wrench and socket.
The wrench pictured above is "home made". Attached is the pdf file for the wrench.
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Old 03-04-2007, 10:53 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

On the subject of "resetting the brakes with the computer", The computer does not reset any braking function. It reads fault codes that the technician can see and then the fault codes are erased/ reset. I had an example of this about two years ago. I had a dealer do a complete brake flush job using the BMW system. I checked the fluid levels myself when I got home and all was normal. I went for a spin and about 10 miles from home on a winding secondary road I was comming into a tight radius turn, I got on the brakes hard and saw flashing red lights on the panel. A cheek tightening experence for sure. I did have brakes but I eased home and took a look.
The resevoir for the front brake cylinders was empty. There was not a sign of a leak. I called the mechanic to ask him what to check. Since the dealer is 130 miles away he tried to help me over the phone. He said that there had to be air in the system although the computer check said no. He asked me to try bleeding the front brake system. I have bled brakes before and I did not mind trying that. Sure enough there was a lot of air in the lines. I fixed the problem and the warning lights did not come on again. The next time I was at the dealer about six months later they did a diagnostic check and it showed a non recurring fault in the brake system. A recurring fault would result in the panel warning lights flashing and a recurring fault code set in the computer. You will notice little orange floats in the wheel resevoirs that have little wires going to them. If the fluid level gets low enough to trip the float switch a fault is set in the computer and the warning lights on the panel go on. Fill up the resevoir and keep riding if it did not get so low as to let air in the system (don't forget to check for leaks if this happens). If air got into the system then the warning lights should be flashing. The fault code that is set in the computer is just a diagnostic tool and does not affect actual braking. Any physical brake problem would be the result of fluid so low that air is in the system or some other mechanical failure.
The mechanic told me that he had the same thing happen to another bike after a system bleed and computer check. The computer said no air in the system but it was a cyber lie.
I just did my first complete brake flush job on my '02 K1200RS. It was a little tedious at first but I soon got comfortable with it and after a sporty ride I can report that all is well. From what I learned from my previous experience at the dealer I can say that if the computer is hooked to my bike again it will read a non recurring fault in the brake system. That is because when you drain the wheel cylinder resevoirs the float switches are tripped and set the code in the system. Not to worry, twist the wrist and let 'er rip.
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Old 08-24-2007, 04:11 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Has anyone tried the ABS III Brakes bleed procedure for a '04 K1200rs??? Thanks for the input.
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Old 08-31-2007, 01:01 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Gary,
Hi here from my new state, CO. (remember we road together to A&S)

In any event, you have to much time on your hands guy . That is one hell of a run down on brake bleeding .

I think you better slow down so you don't have to rely on your brakes so much and then you would not have to worry about working on them .
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Old 11-02-2007, 01:16 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Thank you Gary and all for documenting this process!
I hosted a small tech-night to replace the brake fluid in my 02 K1200RS.
These instructions were very easy to follow and the operation was virtually seemless.

I didn't have a scribe on my speedbleeder used for the clutch. Apparently, I passed it when making the point flat. I had to use the stock bleeder from the rear caliper to bleed the filler adapter. In hindsight, I think you just need to tap it on the grinding wheel.

I wasnt able to get the grub screw out of the clutch filler adapter. The hex is starting to slip. I tried heat and tapping to no avail. Can anyone recommend a method of removing this grub?
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Old 11-02-2007, 11:15 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kniewiderstand
I wasnt able to get the grub screw out of the clutch filler adapter. The hex is starting to slip. I tried heat and tapping to no avail. Can anyone recommend a method of removing this grub?

I have the same problem. I would like to hear some suggestions too. But I am afraid it may need to be drilled out very carefully.
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Old 11-02-2007, 11:57 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by CBoofGo
I have the same problem. I would like to hear some suggestions too. But I am afraid it may need to be drilled out very carefully.

I would order a new adaptor and grub screw. At a price of just over $26.00, it is one of the cheaper things you can replace instead of screwing things up down the line. For instance the bleed hose cost $55.00. A little too much heat or twisting around might break this.
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Old 11-18-2007, 07:51 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Wow , After getting ,y clucth slave cylinder replaced and the clutch (mostly) working, lever feel sux, I am getting ready to tackle my brakes and this procedure should make it easier. Course I have a long cold Maine wintah to do it during so that should give me time to read that entire thing.
Anyone ever try and re-install their swingarm? what a PITA!!!
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Old 12-21-2007, 11:46 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

OK my special tool came in this week after 2 or 3 weeks waiting.... Let me see if I have this right. I need 2 speedbleaders 8mm size for the front calipers, 1 of the 10mm for the clutch and another 10mm for the rear brake correct? Would of been nice to list that on the tools required list up top. And the 8 and 10mm SBs are the same part number SB1010S I guess. (Havent gone to SB page yet, doing that next. FANTASTIC WRITE UP on the job which will save me hundreds$ on the a crappy job by the dealer. (Ive got sticky calipers to repair as well)
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Old 12-21-2007, 11:51 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Answered my own question already. Saw the SB page says 2 of the SB1010S (rear brake and clutch) and 2 of the SB8125L for the front brakes. This is for 2002-03 K1200RS. I have an 02.
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Old 01-07-2008, 02:10 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200Rs Brakes

Rick this is great. This weekend I replaced the slave cylinder on my 2003 K1200GT and I cannot get the clutch to bled properly. I followed Clymer's instructions to bleed master cylinder for the clutch and am using a speedbleeder and vacuum pump but could not get pressure in the system. Any trick to get the air out? Last part I read is maybe loosening the master cylinder to make it level.
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Old 01-07-2008, 02:59 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200Rs Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mlgwe
Any trick to get the air out?
No tricks I know of, just make sure that the brake fluid in the master cylinder doesn't get low enough so that you suck air. Levelling the slave cylinder might be the trick, but seems like a major pain in the ass. Keep trying with the vacuum bleeder, and if still no joy, try levelling the slave cylinder. I've done my clutch several times with the vacuum bleeder and had no problems.
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Old 04-15-2009, 12:14 PM
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Smile Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

you are a star mate thanks i will crack on with it before the sun disapears
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Old 04-15-2009, 12:19 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

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Originally Posted by lancer
you are a star mate thanks i will crack on with it before the sun disapears
I can't take credit for the write up, I just re-posted it from the archives.
The man listed below is the one who deserves the thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary
K1200RS/GT EVO Brake Bleeding
Gary Hollinger 7/15/04
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:43 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Why is it necessary to shim the pads with the plungers pressed all the way back? I did the wheel circuits by just pulling fluid out of the reservoirs, put some fresh in, put on the breaks and opened the bleed then closed it before relieving pressure and repeated until it was all fresh fluid and bubble-free. I did it with thew calipers on the bike.

The rear brake doesn't impress me on this bike but the front slams this thing to a stop! My brakes seem fine. Why do the pads need to be all the way back for bleeding? Am I going to have a problem due to the way I did it?
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Old 05-16-2009, 12:34 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Probably not. With the pads seated all the way back, you have a better shot at getting all the old fluid out with fewer pulls on the brake lever/pedal.

May be a tad bit anal, yeah...
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Old 05-16-2009, 01:46 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

My train of thought was if you push the pads all the way back the only thing you really accomplish is to push dirty and possibly contaminated fluid back into the ABS pump!
I would just as soon bleed my brakes with the pads as they are.
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Old 05-16-2009, 02:23 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Ok. Good. Thanks! I bought a 24k kit from BeemerBoneyard and did the airfilter, fuel filter, motor, gear and drive oil changes and fixed that damn clogged overfill drain! I just got the bike a few months ago and I really want to do as much maintenance myself. I'll tackle the abs pump with a more mechanically inclined friend, but I figured I'd do the wheel circuits now.

The comment about pushing dirt into the pump confuses me. I still have some learning to do for how this is all connected. I'm assuming that me bleeding the wheel circuit from the reservoir to the caliper nipple had nothing to do with the pump. This bike is complex.

Also, is it normal for the rear brake to be so weak? I'd been riding a '76 Honda CB750 with a rear brake that could stop a train. On this bike it doesn't feel like it does much. But that front brake is great.
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Old 05-16-2009, 02:55 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by sessna
The comment about pushing dirt into the pump confuses me. I still have some learning to do for how this is all connected. I'm assuming that me bleeding the wheel circuit from the reservoir to the caliper nipple had nothing to do with the pump. This bike is complex.

Also, is it normal for the rear brake to be so weak? I'd been riding a '76 Honda CB750 with a rear brake that could stop a train. On this bike it doesn't feel like it does much. But that front brake is great.

sessna

When you push the pads back the fluid will be pushed back into the pump unless you have the bleeder screw cracked while moving the brake pistons.

Sort of think that the brake lever runs the control circuit(and the reservoir at the handlebar is for the control circuit, not the wheel circuit) and the pump end of the ABS modulator powers the front wheel circuit.

The rear brake pedal works much the same way, only difference is the rear brake reservoir is a combined control and wheel circuits reservoir.

The rear brake does suck and your rear pads will be shot between 15K-20K. The fronts that seem to do all the stopping, last 50-60K, go figure.

Rick's re-posting of Gary Hollinger's work is excellent!!!!
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:25 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce C
sessna

When you push the pads back the fluid will be pushed back into the pump unless you have the bleeder screw cracked while moving the brake pistons.

Sort of think that the brake lever runs the control circuit(and the reservoir at the handlebar is for the control circuit, not the wheel circuit) and the pump end of the ABS modulator powers the front wheel circuit.

The rear brake pedal works much the same way, only difference is the rear brake reservoir is a combined control and wheel circuits reservoir.

The rear brake does suck and your rear pads will be shot between 15K-20K. The fronts that seem to do all the stopping, last 50-60K, go figure.

Rick's re-posting of Gary Hollinger's work is excellent!!!!

To my limited knowledge, the control circuit and wheel circuits do not share the same fluid. I don't think you can "Push" fluid from the wheel circuit back into the pump. Most of the info in my directions is directly from the manual, I just used different home made methods to achieve the same results.

I had a lengthy conversation with the service manager at A & S BMW last Saturday about our method of bleeding the brakes and he seemed quite satisfied that our proceedure is good. The manual does state to push the pads fully out to get as much old fluid out as possible. Why would you want to leave any old possibly moisture contaminated fliud in there anyway? The wheel circuits are vented to the atmosphere, I say get all you can out of there.
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  #39  
Old 07-24-2009, 04:29 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary
To my limited knowledge, the control circuit and wheel circuits do not share the same fluid. I don't think you can "Push" fluid from the wheel circuit back into the pump. ...

Rear wheel reservoir is definitely combined, so the mixing of wheel and control fluid is possible there.

I would like to say thank you to the people that created these EVO bleeding instructions. They are spot on and work wonderfully. To those that say 'no thanks, I'll just take it to the dealer', I see your point and wouldn't fault you, but I'd say give it a try. Reading them is more complicated than doing it.

My brakes were last serviced in early '08 by a dealer. I did mine here in mid '09. Some of the control circuits were very dark brown. The left front caliper very dark brown. Clutch had and air bubble and feels much better now. I used 2 qts of fluid. 1 qt would have been tough if I really wanted to wait until fluid ran clear. (I just read over the original instructions again and they are saying have 16oz of fluid on hand. Not in my world...)
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:01 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

I just finished bleeding my brakes yesterday, thanks to Gary and other contributors it went relatively easy. I have bled a lot of brakes over the last 30 Years, this sure was the most time consuming one, but yesterday was thunder and lightning here, so I had all day....!

I did my brakes without the Speedbleeders, just got tired of waiting for my order to arrive. I used what is called a "One man Bleeder" available at most auto supply for less than $5.00, essentialy only a hose and reservoir that prevents air from going back in the system, same idea as putting your drain hose in a bottle with fluid in it.I do not however fully trust those bleeders so the last few pumps I shut the bleeder off at every bleed.The only snag with doing it without Speedbleeders is that you won't have a spare bleeder (10mm)to replace the grub screws and do the Clutch and Brake circuit. I did have a spare from an old caliper, but they are also standard size so any auto supply store should have them.

I took the front calipers off and shimmed them, then I tied them to the bike Upside Down, making them more accessible and also probably flushing what usualy collects at the bottom down the bleeder. I did not bother with the rear caliper, did it in place, I do have to go back in there to replace the pads soon. Once you have the calipers tied, it is also a good time to clean them and the pads, lots of dust collects in there, easier to clean without the pads on so you can take them off and shim between the pistons. Just mark your pads and replace them in the same place, they probably are set in with your rotors.Brake cleaner,a tooth brush and compressed air is what I use for cleaning. And since you are at it, clean the rotors too, brake cleaner and light sanding to remove the glaze.

When doing the Clutch and front Reservoir, replace the cover on the reservoir before pumping, it does not have to be screwed down, that is just to prevent fluid from squirting back out.
On the subject of the Covers, it is imperative that you take the rubber gasket out and clean the inside, both of mine had moisture in there, and the clutch side had slight corrosion in it. Push the gasket inside out and clean it. Brake cleaner is what I use, then I lubricated the gasket and inside the cover with Brake Grease, the stuff used in the auto industry to remount pistons in calipers or pistons in master cylinders etc....I'm not too sure of the name, my tube is way too old to read anything on it.Anyhow it is compatible with all brake fluids. Also inspect the screws for corrosion, I had 1 out of 8 with some on it.

I made my own special tool, using a 9/32 in. socket that I had in my "Junk Tools" I pushed a hose in the hole where the ratchet originaly went, and all the fluid came out that way, no mess.Next time I will also make that special funnel to keep more fluid in the rear reservoirs as you bleed, it does not take long to empty them once the servo is running and I dried it out once......!

I did not cover much of the bike to do this, but I did bungee the handlebars left or right as required, that way the fluid won't get knocked out if you hit the bars. I also used lots of kleenexes and paper towels to wad around the reservoirs and pick up the spills right away.If you do not have a syringue to remove the old fluid, a wad of paper towels in the reservoir works good too, just use good ones that won't fall apart

I was a little aprehensive at first on tackling that job, I did not know when that had been done last, maybe never......but only the rear caliper had black fluid in it, everything else was pretty clear, a relief considering the $$$$$ they want for parts!
Started the bike up,went for a little ride, lights all went out as they should, so far so good.....!Today is test day, I will also be testing what that residual braking action does,just in case I ever need it,so it will be down the big hill with ignition Off!!!!

Now my question......Does anyone know why the ignition has to be ON to bleed the wheel circuits? I bled one caliper with the ignition Off out of curiosity, fluid came out as it should......I redid all with the ignition On anyway just to be on the safe side, but it would be a lot easier with it Off as you control the outlet of fluid better without the servos pushing the fluid out and drying out the reservoir fast...??????

Thanks again Gary, i see you are on this post.....
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:28 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Oh yes....I forgot....but if you are going to be at it for a while you might want to take the Fuse out for the headlight, give your battery a chance.
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:01 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbegin@burton
I just finished bleeding my brakes yesterday,
<snip>

I took the front calipers off and shimmed them, then I tied them to the bike Upside Down, making them more accessible and also probably flushing what usualy collects at the bottom down the bleeder.

Wow, how did you get the bike upside down?
You aren't Pennsylvania Dutch by chance, are you?

Chris- waiting for my anti-gravity device to be delivered.
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Old 07-28-2009, 12:40 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

The bike???? I said the calipers....!!!!!
Dutch???????No, French Canadian...!!!!
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:51 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Well, I found myself ruminating, my vision was of Klaus and Ludwig engineering the ABS III system, the conversation might have gone like this,

"you know, Klaus, one day, some Jew, lawyer, from NY, living in Los Angeles, is going to try and bleed the brake system, and with what we have accomplished with this system we will have the last laugh".

After following the incredibly accurate and detailed information contained in this thread, I muddled through, and the job was done right, but damn, what an absolutely over-engineered challenge it was.

Anyway, now that I've been through it once, it won't be such a challenge the next time.

Here's a couple of thoughts, speed bleeders are a must, one quart of brake fluid is not enough, be of above average mechanical apptitude, there are some instances when a second set of hands would be useful, and set aside more time than you originally thought, having said that, the money saved, and knowing that the job was done right made the investment of time worthwhile.
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:38 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

How is this funnel here used, http://www.beemerboneyard.com/abs3funnel.html ?

Can bleeding the brakes and clutch be done with no speedbleeders at all?

I'm getting ready to start this and want to make sure I have the right stuff.

thanks
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:57 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbach
How is this funnel here used, http://www.beemerboneyard.com/abs3funnel.html ?
It screws into the top of the reservoirs under the seat. It basically just expands the volume of the reservoir. This helps prevent the reservoir running dry when the servos are pumping fluid out of the calipers (it sucks the stuff down quickly). It's not absolutely necessary, but very handy, especially if you're flying solo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbach
Can bleeding the brakes and clutch be done with no speedbleeders at all?
Technically, yes. I used a speedbleeder only for the clutch and front brake fill ports (the ones with the grub screws). You could do those with a standard bleed screw, but loosening and tightening on the front brake side (at the end of a hose) with each stroke of the lever would be awkward, even if you have someone else to work the lever. You have to have a spare bleed screw anyway, so unless you have one laying around you might as well get the speedbleeder.

The special tool for the ABS unit bleeder ports is important. Not hard to make it from a cheap wrench using a propane torch. I didn't attach a socket to it, I just used a small pair of vise-grips to turn it. Not elegant, but it works.
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:15 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbach
Can bleeding the brakes and clutch be done with no speedbleeders at all? I'm getting ready to start this and want to make sure I have the right stuff.
thanks

Yes, you can do the job without speed bleeders, but it will be a two person job without them. They are available from several sources, Aerostich is a reliable one,

http://www.aerostich.com/speed-bleeders.html

I would suggest that you read through the instructions a couple of times before you start and keep them handy throughout. You'll need the "special tool" to reach the valves on the ABS pump - but I used a homemade one without incident.

Good luck.
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  #48  
Old 09-30-2009, 04:24 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Heck yes. They aren't necessary, just really nice. The procedure that has been written up and posted in the forums explains the differences between both methods.

Edit: What CJS350 just said
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:17 PM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbach
How is this funnel here used, http://www.beemerboneyard.com/abs3funnel.html ?

Can bleeding the brakes and clutch be done with no speedbleeders at all?

I'm getting ready to start this and want to make sure I have the right stuff.

thanks

I have a couple pictures in this thread. http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=23903
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  #50  
Old 10-01-2009, 01:27 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

I can be easily alone without speedbleeders. Actually there is no need for any speedbleeder at all.

To use funnel is at least highly recommendable. I would not start that job without it or something similar. Important is to have good sealed connection to abs-unit. In funnel that is done by using BMW-cap and that is best solution from my point of view. Simple and working.

I have purchased BMW-cap for ABS unit, installed a see through plastic hose into it and I took an empty plastic bag for liquid (wine bag). It had a tap. So I installed the other end of the see through plastic hose to that tap. After filling the bag with brake fluid I was hanging it into garage ceiling. After having this equipment bleeding was easy. Just opening tap and brake fluid runs slowly into ABS-unit. No need to fill any funnel, no need to check if there is enough fluid in funnel. Hand are free to do just bleeding work. Simple and fast.

I know that my tool is not most beautiful but it has been filling it's purpose very well.

And as you can see the bike is not RS but it has same ABS-unit and servobrakes. Procedure is same as in RS.

Actually I would have bought a plastic bag for sportlers. It has hose already fixed into it, but I did not found any at that time. So, I needed to buy wine and drink it before doing the jod. This was biggest part of the whole job.


Regards
Jukka
Attached Images
File Type: jpg brake fluid change 2.jpg (498.2 KB, 249 views)
File Type: jpg brake fluid change tool.jpg (384.4 KB, 263 views)
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:46 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Thank you all for your answers.
Couple more questions:

Is it okay to remove all the old brake fluid from the reservoirs, exposing the hole, and then fill with new?

There seems to be a difference for speed bleeders depending on the year; which ones does a 2004 K12RS take ?
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  #52  
Old 10-01-2009, 09:14 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbach
Is it okay to remove all the old brake fluid from the reservoirs, exposing the hole, and then fill with new?
Yes, that's standard procedure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbach
There seems to be a difference for speed bleeders depending on the year; which ones does a 2004 K12RS take ?
Should be the same as my '03 RS:
SB8125L x2 - for the front calipers
SB1010S x2 - one for the rear caliper and one to use in the grub screw fill points
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  #53  
Old 04-02-2010, 05:22 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Is the socket that is welded on the home made 12 pt. 7mm wrench tool a 1/4" socket adapter?

Thank you,

John B.
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  #54  
Old 04-02-2010, 05:31 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Rider
Is the socket that is welded on the home made 12 pt. 7mm wrench tool a 1/4" socket adapter?

Thank you,

John B.


Yes it is.
If you don't wanna make one, I have done few into stock.
Can send you by 10 USD+postal costs.

This is actually how I am bleeding. Easier when no need to fill/control funnel.

Regards
Jukka
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File Type: jpg ilmaussetti.jpg (38.6 KB, 142 views)
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  #55  
Old 04-02-2010, 09:43 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leiboshi
Yes it is.
If you don't wanna make one, I have done few into stock.
Can send you by 10 USD+postal costs.

This is actually how I am bleeding. Easier when no need to fill/control funnel.

Regards
Jukka
Very nice set up. What is the cost and the source? Care to share? Thanks Herb
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:14 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb
Very nice set up. What is the cost and the source? Care to share? Thanks Herb

Selfmade set.

Actually I tried to make commercial set, but I haven't had enough time to play with this set lately.

Costs were around 90-95 USD. One of the main cost was that plastic BMW adapter for ABS unit.

Regards
Jukka
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  #57  
Old 04-02-2010, 10:48 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leiboshi

This is actually how I am bleeding. Easier when no need to fill/control funnel.

Regards
Jukka

I actually used something very similar for bleeding the wheel circuits. My bag set-up is a slightly modified medical gravity feeding bag. The bag is suspended from a rafter in my garage at a comfortable working height above the level of the brake reservoirs. The plastic line plugs directly onto the barbed vent port on the stock reservoir fill caps. The brake reservoir then pulls brake fluid on demand from the bag.
Makes for no worries about running the brake reservoirs dry when bleeding.
A big plus is the brake fluid does not break down the plastic bag!
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  #58  
Old 04-02-2010, 10:51 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce C
I actually used something very similar. My bag set-up is a slightly modified medical gravity feeding bag. The bag is suspended from a rafter in my garage at a comfortable working height above the level of the brake reservoirs. The plastic line plugs directly onto the barbed vent port on the stock reservoir fill caps. The brake reservoir then pulls brake fluid on demand from the bag.
Makes for no worries about running the brake reservoirs dry when bleeding.
A big plus is the brake fluid does not break down the plastic bag!

That was first in my mind as well. They have better valve also. But hose is very thin. And I was not able to buy one.

Regards
Jukka
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:11 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Here's a picture.
I had to cut off the hospital-grade plastic tubing a couple of inches from the bag and slide a 6' length of 3/16" id. by 5/16 od. plastic tubing over top of the original tubing (don't leak with no glue or solvent used). I also cut off and discarded the shut-off valve that came with the feeding bag. I found it would not shut-off the flow of brake fluid for reasons unknown. I use a medical clamp for a valve, but I'm sure any type of locking device will work.
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:23 AM
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Re: How do I bleed K1200RS ABS III Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce C
Here's a picture.
I had to cut off the hospital-grade plastic tubing a couple of inches from the bag and slide a 6' length of 3/16" id. by 5/16 od. plastic tubing over top of the original tubing (don't leak with no glue or solvent used). I also cut off and discarded the shut-off valve that came with the feeding bag. I found it would not shut-off the flow of brake fluid for reasons unknown. I use a medical clamp for a valve, but I'm sure any type of locking device will work.

Thats nice and clean!

Regards
Jukka
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