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Old 09-15-2013, 02:34 AM
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Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Some time ago I began thinking about ditching the ESA shocks on the Mighty Mighty as I could tell they just weren't performing like the days of old. Sure, at 48K miles I should've done it a lot sooner but shit happens.

So began my research comparing Ohlins to Wilbers to see which best fit the bill. There was very little difference in price and in the end it came down to some hearty recommendations from a couple of i-BMWr's. Plus, I had started up some dialogue with Ted Porter at the BeemerShop who was pretty helpful and is where I made my purchase.

Delivery of the shocks took about 4 weeks and were built to my specs at the factory... 5 year warranty & rebuildable.

What follows is for the do-it-yourselfers...


Awe Yeah!

To get started on the front shock removal, you need to remove the belly pan, side panels, battery cover, tank panels, air intake snorkels, ZFE control unit, fender, brake calipers, wheel, radiator cooling guide and disconnect the temp sensor connector. While you have the snorkels off, it's a good time to inspect the air filters and replace them, if necessary. Mine were pretty caked with butterfly remains and dirt.


Ready To Begin


48K Miles Worth Of Baked Bugs

I used a small lift to get the bike off the ground so the front fork would be free of any load. Next, remove the nut from the bottom leading link bolt which is located on the left side of the bike behind the ZFE module.


Bottom Leading Link Bolt Nut (item 10 in exploded view below)

Next, release the nut on the quick release bolt on the bottom leading link located on the right side of the bike, then remove the quick release bolt. Next, remove the bolt & nut that secures the bottom of the shock to the bottom leading link. The nut requires a Torx E16 socket to remove... you can use vise grips in a pinch!


Bottom Leading Link Quick Release Nut & Bolt (items 6 & 9 in the exploded view below)


Exploded View Of Bottom Leading Link

Next, remove the bolt that secures the brake hose assembly to the rear of the fork.



Next, follow the ESA cable from the shock to the plug and disconnect it while removing the cable ties that secure the cable along the way.


Front ESA Shock Plug

Next, install the wheel axle so you can lift/pull the fork away from the radiator which helps get the leading link out of the way so you can get the shock out. I used some tie downs with ratchets, attached to the angle brackets on the ceiling of my garage that hold the garage door opener. I know, white trash deluxe, but hey?


White Trash Front Fork Lift

This is where you need to lift the front fork until it makes contact with the radiator... easy does it. Push the leading link down so the shock is clear.

Next, remove the bolt that secures the top of the shock to the frame. You'll need a breaker bar to loosen the bolt. This part can be tricky because the head of the bolt is recessed in the frame and I couldn't tell if it was a Torx head or hex. For the record, it's a T55 Torx (thanks Doug/Loggiebone) and depending on the bit you have, it may not be long enough. I had to order one because mine was short & stubby and the outside diameter of the bit was just a hair too big to allow it to fit into the recessed hole far enough to make good contact with the bolt head.


A Longer T55 Torx Bit Can Help


Hole Location For Shock Top Bolt

I buggered up the head of the bolt a bit cause I initially used a T50 Torx. Ted at the BeemerShop gave me some good advice that wound up helping a lot. In this situation, he suggested an old shop trick of putting valve grinding compound on the end of the Torx bit which allows it to make tighter contact or "purchase" with the head of the bolt. It works... amazing!

Once the bolt is removed the shock should come out.


Out With The Old & In With The New

Putting everything back together is basically everything done in reverse order.

Torque Values (from OEM Repair Manual)
  • Top shock bolt - 35Nm (use blue Loctite on threads)
  • Bottom shock bolt - 38Nm
  • Bottom leading link quick release bolt - 20Nm initial torque, release, 7Nm final torque (right side of bike; lightly grease bolt shank & smear a little anti-seize compound on the bolt threads)
  • Bottom leading link quick release bolt nut - 145Nm (right side of bike)
  • Bottom leading link bolt nut - 30Nm (left side of bike)
  • Front wheel axle - 50Nm
  • Axle clamping screws - 19Nm
  • Front brake calipers bolts - 30Nm (use blue Loctite on threads)
Now on to the rear...

To get to the rear shock, you need to remove the bolt that holds the muffler to the rear footrest bracket and a handful of bolts that secure the rear frame to the main frame. These are the bolts that need to be removed:


One On Each Side


One On Each Side


One On Each Side


One On Each Side (these bolts secure the oil tank to the frame)

Once you've removed all the screws, you should be able to pivot the rear frame towards the front end of the bike. You'll need a way to hold the rear frame in place so you can continue to work. I went back to the white trash lift and it worked great.


Rear Frame Moved Forward

Next, you'll need to pull the oil tank out of its holder and remove the top two hoses that are attached. The oil tank will rest on the muffler if you're careful.


Oil Tank Hoses


Oil Tank Removed

Next, disconnect the 3 ESA plugs and remove all the cable ties. One plug is behind the little plate where the factory power outlet is located... it's blue.


Plugs 1 & 2


Plug 3

Next, remove the top bolt that secures the top end of the shock. You may need your breaker bar to loosen the bolt. Then remove the bottom bolt for the shock... having the bike on your floor lift will help here. Now the shock should come out.




Goodbye Old Timer

Putting everything back together is basically everything done in reverse order.

When you install the shock, use the floor lift to raise the bike up so the rear drive drops down enough so you can line up the bottom of the shock with the mounting hole so the bolt can go through easily.

Torque Values (from OEM Repair Manual)
  • Rear wheel; 5 bolts (can be helpful to remove the tire/wheel for more room to work) - 60Nm
  • Rear shock top bolt - 9Nm initial torque, 38Nm final
    • lightly grease bolt shank & use blue Loctite on threads
  • Bottom shock top bolt - 9Nm initial torque, 38Nm final
    • lightly grease bolt shank & use blue Loctite on threads
I got the optional remote adjustable preload for the rear and I'm just not crazy about how it attaches to the bike. I'd prefer to mount it parallel to the frame rather than perpendicular. I'm hoping to figure a way out to do that. Maybe Beech could make a bracket for us Wilbers owners?



All in all, this was a pretty easy install although I did make a few errors here & there.

Hope this makes it easier for those that have this task in mind, like to wrench a bit and want get to know their bike a little better. Plus, you'll keep some cash in your pocket for your hard work versus giving it to "the man".
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Last edited by McFly : 02-10-2018 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:32 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Great instructions and pics.

I'm glad I had my Ohlins installed for me.
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:36 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Great write up!
Yeh, the preload adjuster does look funny. On my RS I made a bracket out of a piece of
aluminum angle stock. It's easy to work with, you can cut it with a coping saw, drill, sand
and polish.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:32 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Thanks Curt for the great instructions.
I saved the thread for future reference.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:38 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

+ 1 .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee
Thanks Curt for the great instructions.
I saved the thread for future reference.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:56 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Excellent post.. !! I'll mention this in my next newsletter... Thanks for taking the time..

I'm at 27K on my bike and have been wondering how hard the install is... Now I know... Definately over my head.. I wonder what a dealer will charge for this procedure?? I'm guessing at least 5 hours shop time... Anyone know?
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:36 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Great instructional McFly! If I ever need to put shocks on a KS, I will come spend a few days with you! Really, that was very well done.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:41 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate
Excellent post.. !! I'll mention this in my next newsletter... Thanks for taking the time..

I'm at 27K on my bike and have been wondering how hard the install is... Now I know... Definately over my head.. I wonder what a dealer will charge for this procedure?? I'm guessing at least 5 hours shop time... Anyone know?
Leading up to the install, I had some back & forth with justjoe who mentioned he laid out around $250 but that was at a local shop where he bought his Wilbers and is also a Wilbers service center. I'm thinking your local BMW extortionist, er dealer, may charge a bit more. But then again, they have all the tools/expertise and could do the install much quicker than I did.

As for the install, it was a little time consuming and I did it over a couple of afternoons & evenings but it is totally doable!
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Last edited by McFly : 09-20-2013 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:52 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Great job and excellent write up Curt

I could see this in my future, in your discussions with Ted Porter did an option for front/rear damping adjustment come up? It would be nice to have some flexibility there. I believe the Ohlins have that option
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:36 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by K13Mike
Great job and excellent write up Curt

I could see this in my future, in your discussions with Ted Porter did an option for front/rear damping adjustment come up? It would be nice to have some flexibility there. I believe the Ohlins have that option
The Wilbers are fully adjustable... the front shock has an adjustable rebound wheel that can be modified from the factory settings. The rear has the same feature plus high/low speed compression adjustment.

Ted also mentioned another feature difference between the Wilbers and Ohlins which is the Ohlins are aluminum and need more frequent rebuilding while the Wilbers stuff is steel and doesn't have any oil contamination issues. He sent me this video link.

I ordered the "Black" line shock which has black springs, silver anodized compression adjustments screws and grey knob/handle on the preload adjuster. Aesthetically it looks better with the aluminum color of the Mighty Mighty versus the red & blue anodized adjustment screws, blue springs and red preload adjustment knob/handle. However, you can order custom color springs for a $50 per spring up charge and you can choose red/blue colors for the compression adjustments screws with any spring color combo.

Ted was really helpful and patient with all my questions which went over about a month's time. We talked a few times in between and when I had questions during the install. Highly recommended!
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"Vulgarity is the crutch of an illiterate mutherfucker" - Chris Andries
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:55 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Excellent post, Curt!
Thanks for taking such time to document your work so that others might benefit.

You've really been getting into this tear-it-down/build-it-back-up mode of motorcycle ownership, lately.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:15 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Thanks for the write up. I agree the adjuster for the rear shock needs thought. Possibly a right angle banjo fitting on the hose might help. Something that could be called out on order at Ted's? My luck these days I'd drop the bike and break it off. I'm probably headed for this job this winter also.
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:48 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beech
Thanks for the write up. I agree the adjuster for the rear shock needs thought. Possibly a right angle banjo fitting on the hose might help. Something that could be called out on order at Ted's? My luck these days I'd drop the bike and break it off. I'm probably headed for this job this winter also.
When I first mounted the preload adjuster, I had it mounted as far back towards the rear foot rest as it could go and on the bottom side of the frame rail. It's a terrible location because you wind up feeling it on the back of your boot while you ride and it's really annoying. I wound up reversing it so it's on top of the frame rail and to get the hose positioned correctly (or better), I loosened the nut a bit and moved the hose around and tightened it back up so it wasn't at such a bad angle.

Better but not perfect.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:30 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Curt:

Great write up and pictorial. I won't need to do this anytime soon but it looks very doable. Thanks for taking the time.
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:58 AM
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Thumbs up Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Maybe someday I will have a K-S

Directions & pics are top notch
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:10 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Nicely done Curt, always a nice sense of accomplishment when you complete a task like this!
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:20 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Nice work and effort to share the information. It will serve both those who would like to tackle a job like this and also the ones less sure. I would be in the latter category, but with more info to decide.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:39 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Great job documenting your adventure, Curt... now I know for sure that I wouldn't tackle that job!!
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:14 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

This is how my Ohlins rear preload adjuster is mounted if that helps at all!!

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Old 09-16-2013, 05:49 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Just remember all that hassle is only for you ESA guys going to manual,for the manual guys changing the rear over is a 45 minute job,but I do like the latest Wilbers over the years they have done themselves no favours having the res on another pipe and now done it integral like an Ohlins very tidy.

It's on the other site but for those that haven't seen it and I guess it's how Mcfly ended up but works ok for me.

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Old 09-17-2013, 09:20 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by McFly
Leading up to the install, I had some back & forth with justjoe who mentioned he laid out around $250 but that was at a local shop where he bought his Wilbers and is also a Wilbers service center. I'm thinking your local BMW extortionist, er dealer, may charge a bit more. But then again, they have all the tools/expertise and could do the install much quicker than I did.

As for the install, it was a little time consuming and I did it over a couple of evenings but it is totally doable!

Hermanusa.com
Jerry, the Wilber's distributor on the east coast is in Jacksonville. I cannot say enough good things about Herman. I scheduled the install and he had it done in a half day or so. It would be a nice trip to the beach for you and Amber!
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:21 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Super sweet Curt! I hope you enjoy them.
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:56 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Okay... I never really liked the mounting method for the hydraulic remote spring preload adjuster for the Wilbers rear shock I installed on the K12S, so I went about pinging others who have made their own custom mounts to change from a perpendicular to a preferred parallel mount. One of our esteemed members, Jargon, was kind enough to share some pics of his setup which gave me a better idea about an alternative mount. Thank you sir!

I took an old gizmo mounting plate that I used when I owned the K12RS and fashioned a "J" bracket from a stencil I made. Once I got it in the shape desired, I removed all the paint, primered and painted it to match the black frame. Not perfect but I think it turned out pretty good.




Paint It Black


Before


After

Now I'm a happy guy! Everything is right with the world... well almost everything.
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:46 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

The Mighty Mighty is looking good for AHR!
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:08 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Great documentary there Curt.

Put some pics to the discussions we had over the phone.

The new bracket surely cleans up the mount. Perhaps Wilbers will pay you a royalty for the design rights. Yeah.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:05 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

So Curt, it only seems natural that you give us a review of said shocks...
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:00 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jargon
So Curt, it only seems natural that you give us a review of said shocks...
So far, they're awesome! I'm still fiddling with rebound and damping but overall I really like them. Now I think to myself, "why did I wait so long"?

Can't wait to try 'em out at the Hillbilly in a couple of weeks!
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:32 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Nice write up, I am doing this change today and tomorrow.
MUCH easier if you drain the oil, the tank can be a problem to pull out with the rear wheel on. I suspended the bike instead of using stands, seemed easier. I was surprised the top shock bolt has the head of the bolt on one side for support and threads on the other. The pictures here really help show that.
And the Wilbur's mount..
I drilled the frame to mount the adjuster in a better position.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:37 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Replying to myself?

Any way the shock has 1/2" sag, should have 3/4"!
What happened? Insufficient information I think. The Wilbers is set up for stock and my 190 ready to ride self. My bike is 25 lbs lighter than stock, could that be it? I did not mention to Beemershop the weight when I bought the shocks.

I suggest lying, BTW, the shocks are a bit on the over sprung side with no preload on the adjustment. Tell them you really weigh 150 lbs.
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:17 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Wilbers has hear the story and the rear shock now has a shorter tube to the preload adjuster and also a nice SS bracket that is perfect!! I followed the great directions of this post. Leaves out a lot of the fiddling around that goes in between the words of the instructions of course. I also did a clean and grease of all the needle bearings in the rear linkage. Along with all the other cleaning and looking one does when things are apart. Shocks are in, test ride to be accomplished soon. Weather is pretty cold, ice is a problem in the mornings. Took me 9 hours to do the job. Next time maybe less but I don't see why. I enjoy being careful and looking at other nearby parts.
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Old 12-06-2013, 09:00 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Notice my install will not get hit in a fall.....

On the stiffness front, I put 300+ miles on the rear shock (no time to finish front yet) and think they gave me a spring for "normal" use. i.e. occasional passenger and / or luggage. I carry neither and plan on removing the passenger pegs soon.
Rear spring says 59 - 59 - 100 - 165
I am 185 - 190 ready to ride (cold days 190) and the bike is 25 lbs under stock weight.

Hopefully there will be an easy adjustment?
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:27 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOA
Notice my install will not get hit in a fall.....
It is inside the plane of the foot pets and seat. Any worse than that, you will need more than a shock adjuster. I thought about the need to bend it flatter until I took a hard look at all the angles. With it out some you can easily mess with it on the fly.
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:00 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Nice, hard to see that from the picture.

Ted from Beemershop (where I bought the shocks) is working with me on getting the springs sorted out. Dealing with him is very easy and hopefully this will resolve without too much work.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:30 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Did the front shock today, this write up was invaluable.
Some observations:
1) front wheel can stay on with brakes, etc. The tire touched the fairing, but the shock made it out.
2) Your mileage may vary..
My right hand side lower A arm bolt was so tight I had to use a 3/4" drive set, fortunately a 1 3/16 socket is a tight fit and I got it apart.
There were no long shank T55's in town so I ground down the shoulder on a shorter one.
Vice Grips as recommended worked well, no socket Torx in town either.
3) After the stiff rear I backed off the front shock's spring 1/2 turn from what Wilbers supplied prior to installing. Front has 1 3/8" sag which I call close enough for commuting. I still have to get up the ambition to back the rear shock spring off 3/4 to 1 turn.

No pictures, keep getting "upload failed"
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:34 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Well done Curt. Way beyond what I would like to do. I have 20k on my bike and only ridden solo so I have a few more years to figure out what type of schocks I will replace mine with. What a great job you did and very educational, though I don't have a clue on how to do it myself. Beyond my pay grade. I don't know waht it would cost from a BMW outlet but I am sure you saved a ton of money.
If you don't have anything to do in a couple of years and bored in the winter months, you can come up here and freeze your ass off on my garage. Ok, I will get space heaters to make it nice and warm.
A well done job and thanks for the pics and instructions.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:08 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Easy and CHEAP shock protection on my K1200s.
Take off label, cut to length, split down one side, clip on spring - 10 minutes not including eating the peanuts.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:22 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Curt: Great write up. Thank you! I am one of the happy campers with Wilber shocks. Had 'em on my K1200RS, my K1200S, and will probably get a set for my K1300S when the ESA gets worn out. I think I'll either take them to the shop: either the new Vallantine Motors on Aurora in Seattle, or possibly Mount Vernon Cannon works.

Seeya
ATB
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:30 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Replying because I used this invaluable post again to be sure I did the rear shock right.
I went back to stock one so Ted Porter at Beemershop can install a free spring, next step softer. 1K miles on the Wilbers and MANY adjustments later we came to the conclusion the spring is too stiff for my riding. Ted has been quite a trooper putting up with me and coaching me on adjustments. He will get my money for son's VFR shock soon.
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Old 05-25-2014, 12:57 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Another update,
Ted and his gang installed a softer spring for free and I dropped the rebound one click. The rear suspension now tracks well over my worst nightmare washboard corners. Ride over the botts dots is improved so I have more confidence lane splitting.
I will call the rear done and slightly better than a new stock shock - and MUCH lighter.
New spring is a "90", down from "100"

Will post if and when I get around to the front spring which is also quite stiff.
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:51 PM
ChrisCannin ChrisCannin is online now
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

My Wilbers was light years better than my stock shock and that had only done 1600 miles.
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:28 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisCannin
My Wilbers was light years better than my stock shock and that had only done 1600 miles.
Love ya Chris, but you really need not post crap like that.
Why is it better? Where are you riding? What are you riding (perhaps not necessary as this is K1200s topic, unless you are riding a different bike)? How hard are you riding?
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:15 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

You've got it wrong dude your posting the crap a Wilbers slightly better than a stock shock are you kidding me there's not even a comparison just a ridiculous comment,the quality ride that you get from a decent shock be it Ohlins /Wilbers/Hyperpro is a world away from the stuff that BM fit stock ESA or no.

If that's your judgement it's either a poor shock/Ted Porter or You
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:24 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOA
Love ya Chris, but you really need not post crap like that.
Why is it better? Where are you riding? What are you riding (perhaps not necessary as this is K1200s topic, unless you are riding a different bike)? How hard are you riding?

Your the guy who says a Wilbers is slightly better than a stock shock and you say I'm posting crap,K1200s topic their all the same!!! K or R.

Their absolutely nothing like and you can include Ohlins and Hyperpro as well cuz their light years better as well.
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:57 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

My ESA shocks were starting to misbehave.. wallow in curves and stuff, like too much "cadillac" effect.

Took my bike to the dealer in El Salvador (highly NOT recommended).
They told me the computer couldn't communicate to the ESA shocks, and therefore they were at their softest setting.

Bought a pair from a K1300S '10, with (allegedly) about 5,300 miles on them.

Night an day difference.

I don't miss ESA... I like my bike stiff, so these manual shocks are just doing the job just fine.

If I need it softer setup, just stop the bike and after 2 minutes or less is done.

I still have my old ESA shocks. When I buy the GS-911 I will try to diagnose what's wrong.
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:44 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Thanks Mondrage, did you get spring rates?
Over at the VFR forums they are pretty good with specifics and suggested I go another click less on rebound, front and rear. I will try that this week. The sag is correct now and the bounce check shows equal rise (I had to be shown how to correctly do this without biasing front or rear).

Glad to hear your Wilbers are working splendidly on your Guzzi Chris.

But as you know riders want different things, if someone wants the same as me they will not see a huge benefit. I commute over rough roads between 70 to 90 mph on the way to work and lane split from 45 to 70 mph on the way home on the botts dots. My K1200s is 30 lbs under stock weight. Perhaps I am not the target Wilbers customer?
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:02 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paughco
Curt: Great write up. Thank you! I am one of the happy campers with Wilber shocks. Had 'em on my K1200RS, my K1200S, and will probably get a set for my K1300S when the ESA gets worn out. I think I'll either take them to the shop: either the new Vallantine Motors on Aurora in Seattle, or possibly Mount Vernon Cannon works.

Seeya
ATB
Al, you're a big guy like me...I just don't know how you can tolerate the ESA shocks knowing how much better that bike will ride with Wilbers? I replied to an old post...maybe you've worn them out a bit and are closer to the switch?
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Old 05-27-2014, 12:21 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

DOA...

I don't know. I bought the standard non-ESA shocks from said K1300S '10.

I'm about 4-6 clicks from the highest spring compression setting.
Also, about 5 o'clock on the rebound dial.
It's pretty stiff that way. No more wallowing...

Guess I would consider better shocks should this bike decides to finally behave one day...
So many mods I'd like to do.
Already purchased the rising plates... but wanted to replace the airbox with a K1200S double-filter airbox...

We'll see... I don't think I can sell this bike for a decent price anyways... might as well keep it.
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:30 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Addendum
I finally ran into my tuner from when I was racing for Honda. I asked him about suspension and he said I always set up softer than most of the other racers. He thinks I keep more weight on the pegs than most people so my body weight does not have full effect on the suspension. That may explain some of why the Wilbers stock shocks felt so stiff.

As said so often here, find out what works for you.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:00 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOA
Addendum
I finally ran into my tuner from when I was racing for Honda. I asked him about suspension and he said I always set up softer than most of the other racers. He thinks I keep more weight on the pegs than most people so my body weight does not have full effect on the suspension. That may explain some of why the Wilbers stock shocks felt so stiff.

As said so often here, find out what works for you.

Maybe I'm missing something...if the weight is mostly on your feet, or mostly on your seat, doesn't that weight work on the rear shock?
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'09 K1300S 'fits me like a glove' with Wilbers
Handy Motorcycle Lift

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'11 F800R (traded for GSA)
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:52 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jargon
Maybe I'm missing something...if the weight is mostly on your feet, or mostly on your seat, doesn't that weight work on the rear shock?
He lessens his sprung weight by transferring more of his weight to the foot pegs, which becomes unsprung weight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DOA
He thinks I keep more weight on the pegs than most people so my body weight does not have full effect on the suspension.
Sprung Vs. Unsprung Weight
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:36 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Legs can be part of your suspension system.
If you really want to toss a monkey wrench in the calculations, add a sprung seat like some Harleys.

http://www.sportrider.com/sportbike-...kes-suspension

may help explain things.
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:50 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOA
Legs can be part of your suspension system.
If you really want to toss a monkey wrench in the calculations, add a sprung seat like some Harleys.

http://www.sportrider.com/sportbike-...kes-suspension

may help explain things.

Thanks for the link. I've never thought about it but I do rise off the seat when going over major bumps (like RR tracks). I thought it was just because of old habits riding dirt bikes but this article explains the reason and now I know!
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:45 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Any news here?
My K13 has locked itself in Sport mode twice now in 8K miles. Sport mode two up is worth its weight in Preparation H for a solo rider.
I am starting my research again, spring rates, shock manufacturers, etc for the K13.
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Old 07-26-2016, 01:45 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOA
Any news here?
My K13 has locked itself in Sport mode twice now in 8K miles. Sport mode two up is worth its weight in Preparation H for a solo rider.
I am starting my research again, spring rates, shock manufacturers, etc for the K13.
Is it still under BMW warranty?
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:05 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOA
Any news here?
My K13 has locked itself in Sport mode twice now in 8K miles. Sport mode two up is worth its weight in Preparation H for a solo rider.
I am starting my research again, spring rates, shock manufacturers, etc for the K13.


I bought a set of new in box shocks from Howkan on here for my '10 K13s they were Wilbers and apparently setup from the factory for a #175 rider fully kitted up. I am #165 plus kit so these should have been perfect.

However when I put them on the sag was way off the front was really stiff and I had to knock it down to pretty close to zero preload and i had the crank the preload right up on the rear from the settings they put on when built supposedly for #175.

Anyway not sure if thats the kind of info you were looking for? Oh and now these are adjusted and I have about 4000 miles on them the bike rides like a dream
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:13 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andynj
I bought a set of new in box shocks from Howkan on here for my '10 K13s they were Wilbers and apparently setup from the factory for a #175 rider fully kitted up. I am #165 plus kit so these should have been perfect.

However when I put them on the sag was way off the front was really stiff and I had to knock it down to pretty close to zero preload and i had the crank the preload right up on the rear from the settings they put on when built supposedly for #175.

Anyway not sure if thats the kind of info you were looking for? Oh and now these are adjusted and I have about 4000 miles on them the bike rides like a dream
For $50, Washington Cycle Works in Washington, NJ, will set up your suspension. I've never had to deviate from their settings on my Wilbers/K13S Just perfect!
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Current Bikes-The Perfect Combination
'15 R12GSAW 'The I-BMW Pussy Bike'
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'04 K1200RS with Ohlins (traded for GSA)
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:20 PM
Andynj Andynj is offline
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jargon
For $50, Washington Cycle Works in Washington, NJ, will set up your suspension. I've never had to deviate from their settings on my Wilbers/K13S Just perfect!


Thanks Jargon, I actually did most of it at home with a couple of mates (and a few beers!) and then had the guys at WCW check it over for me. The rear is easy but the front is really a 3 man job to measure well. It was within 2mm of where I needed to be with our garage antics so I was surprised I think they just changed the rebound by one click.

if anything it was a nice excuse to take the long way out there as the roads are really awesome that way.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:18 PM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemerMikeTX
Is it still under BMW warranty?
Yes, and free each time. But I just don't trust them now and they will never be "just right".

I only use the one up Comfort and one up Normal settings (track days and some smooth roads). I never ride two up or with luggage so the other 4 settings are useless. These are touring bikes and made for the occasional two up with luggage trip. Taking weight off the bike, being under the target rider weight and never carrying luggage takes the shocks out of their adjustment range.
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Old 02-14-2017, 01:42 AM
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

Hi Curt,

I just found your post and read the entire thread. Very helpful!

I am in the same situation -- 2007 K1200R Sport. Want to install Wilbers -- 630 front, 642 rear with remote preload adjuster, like you did.

Can you please answer a few more questions?

1. If you still have the bike, can you please post a few detailed pictures of the rear shock, showing the position and access to the damping adjuster screws? Where exactly are they, and can you get to them easily for adjustment?

2. Are you still using the same mounting bracket for the preload adjuster that you manufactured? Has it been working well, or would you do it differently?

3. When you removed the ESA shock, did you have to do anything with the onboard electronics, or ESA control switch on the handlebars?

4. Any other advice or tips on ordering or using the Wilbers? Specs, color, installation, setting...? Still happy with them?

Thank you very much in advance!
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Old 02-14-2017, 09:19 AM
Andynj Andynj is offline
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Re: Wilbers Install... A Shocking Tale!

I can answer a couple of these questions from a 2010 K1300s POV if that helps:

1. If you still have the bike, can you please post a few detailed pictures of the rear shock, showing the position and access to the damping adjuster screws? Where exactly are they, and can you get to them easily for adjustment?

Damping is adjusted using a plastic collar at the bottom of both shocks, front and rear are easy to get to and adjust with one finger they are not stiff and do not require tools.

2. Are you still using the same mounting bracket for the preload adjuster that you manufactured? Has it been working well, or would you do it differently?

New Wilbers will come with a mounting bracket for the remote hydraulic adjuster on the rear.

3. When you removed the ESA shock, did you have to do anything with the onboard electronics, or ESA control switch on the handlebars?

Mine was non ESA, I had MAX BMW do the shock install. They charged me 2 hours labor front and rear. The tech said if I had ESA it would have been another 2 hours labor especially for the rear, not sure why.

4. Any other advice or tips on ordering or using the Wilbers? Specs, color, installation, setting...? Still happy with them?

My Wilbers were pre owned but were set for the same weight as I am #170, however. The Preload was set hard on the front from the box and I had to adjust using the tension ring on the front by 4mm. Once on the bike because of the duolever suspension getting that to that ring on the bike is very tough, I had to take off off all the side panels and use a brass drift. Highly recommend you triple check preload before front shock goes in.


I pondered long and hard before getting these shocks, I got them pre owned, full price would probably have been a no go. Once they are on the the difference was pretty apparent but really shows after 1k - 2k miles and they have bedded in. Its tough to say exactly how they are different, it won't transform your bike into a superbike but the overall riding experience is much more plush and when pushing hard in turns its much more consistent and confidence inspiring.
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