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  #1  
Old 05-25-2015, 10:20 AM
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Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Picture guide on how to remove the clutch, the basket and how to reassemble it again. k1200/k1300 k40
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:30 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Hey Pat, probably because we are "down under," some images go sideways/upside down when opened?
Can you change the plates, without removing the basket?
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:49 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

I have noticed that too, but when using my pad they are normal...... not sure what to do.

Yes you can change out the plates without removing the basket.
I know that not all clutch plates wear the same. For example on my clutch the 2 inner most are worn. So i won't be changing out all the plates
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:46 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

What is a cost-effective source for the clutch plates?

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Old 05-26-2015, 03:10 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmogs
some images go sideways/upside down when opened?

Fixed













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Old 05-27-2015, 11:02 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

I have a BARNETT Clutch ready to install.. I just have to wait for the opportune time to take the bike down for a couple of days to make repaire.

I also have to drain and fill the finial drive, replace the rubber bellows between the finial drive and the drive tube, Lube the splines and install my center stand.

A couple of questions for PAT.

- IF,,,, the oil pump chain isn't worn out and can be adjusted, how do you know when it is properly adjusted (other than purchasing that Damn BMW oil pump chain adjuster tool) ??

- Were your rivets loose and did it rattle when you had the bike in N and the clutch released?

- Speaking of that washer, what do you do if you find that it too big???

THANK YOU for the excellent pictures and the great write up.

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Old 05-28-2015, 11:27 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

@FOOBAR....... I bought a spare engine from the wrecker for 800 Dollars. It had the clutch still in it with only 35,000km. So i am changing out the inner two worn plates only.

@Bill Curlee...... The oil pump chain is properly adjusted when 90ฐ......excenter tool.....bla bla bla.....BMW bull...... :-)

Loosen the two screws on the plastic guide rail and push it to the right until the slack is gone. Don't overdue it though..... the plastic guide is only there to ''guide'' the chain, not to tension it!!

The rivets...... That is something i picked up while tuning my 1982 Vespa Scooter from 50cc to 136cc..... the basket and the drive gear were riveted together and i had 2 out of 3 loose. It caused the basket to shake at certain RPM ~3500-4000.
The Rattle noise that you get is most likely from the gearbox.....its most likely the same as my bike.
Unfortunately, the first generation of k1200 gearboxes have too much play in them and produce this intermitten clunking/rattle sound when in neutral. My bike is fine for the first 2-3 kilometer but when everything has reached operating temperature it starts to rattle if i don't hold the clutch pulled in.......
To get rid of every rattle/clunk/noisy shifting, buy a clutch+basket+oil pump/drive+gearbox from a 1300..... :-)

The washer on the free wheel unit........ I only picked this up while reading another thread on here. It spposedly causes some sort of vibration/rattle and even starting problems if the inner diameter is too big. All i could make out from the thread is that it resolved the guys issue by changing it to a closer tolerance washer......Can't see how that could stop the starter though unless it wedges it in between the gears or the whole assembly has too little play and it causes it bind......
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Old 05-28-2015, 11:55 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=29160

Scroll down to thread number 40
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:18 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Thanks very much for posting the photos. The slack in the oil pump chain is more than one would expect. I've looked at a couple and always wondered. Asked a German shop tech and his answer was the sprocket was not machined and needed a little extra slop. I spent money for the tool but so far the clutch is up to snuff.
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Old 05-28-2015, 11:11 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

The chain and how it drives the oil pump is somewhat of a weird piece of engineering. Under load, the chain is straight and will get the 90ฐ. Problem is though that when it feeds itself back through the chain guide it becomes loose again and flopps around until it gets to the oilpump sprocket...... that flopping chews out the oilpump sprocket and in worse case the chain jumps off and starts wrapping itself around the clutch basket.....
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Old 05-29-2015, 12:10 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Yes, I can see there is a problem if too loose. There is a "tool" to measure it.
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:30 AM
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Thumbs up Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

The pictures are very helpfull. I'm about to change my gearbox on my K1200s. For that, the clutch basket has to come off. In de BMW manual they tell you, you need all kinds of special tools. Thanks to these photo's I can save me a lot of money on these tools.
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:20 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Any one have a clutch basket removal tool 2006 K1200R or K1200RS they want to sell or rent ...(USA)
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Old 06-09-2016, 11:30 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by bernardo
Fixed


How in Hell do you expect me to keep my k1200 up side down during the course of the repair
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:59 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

กกก ɥƃnoɥʇ oɟuᴉ ʇɐǝɹפ ˙ʎzzᴉp ƃuᴉʇʇǝƃ sɐʍ I ˙sʞuɐɥ┴
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Old 07-12-2016, 11:48 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by cabnfvr
กกก ɥƃnoɥʇ oɟuᴉ ʇɐǝɹפ ˙ʎzzᴉp ƃuᴉʇʇǝƃ sɐʍ I ˙sʞuɐɥ┴


LOL! You made my day!
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Old 07-12-2016, 02:28 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Turn your auto rotate off.... That might helps
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:07 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by OILHEAD
How in Hell do you expect me to keep my k1200 up side down during the course of the repair

Easy my friend!

Simply invert your monitor

Or come here, I have the DVD repair manual and good asados
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Old 12-03-2016, 01:35 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Thanks for the info, very helpful!
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Old 03-26-2018, 02:46 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Well, mine clutch started to grind at the takeof. It seems usage of this clutch tool is very close. Can somebody write down dimensions of this tool (inner diammeter and tooth size)?

Patrique... do you still recommend to do it with allen key fixer or to obtain BMW cranck locking tool?
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Old 03-26-2018, 03:42 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Photo in post #5: Steel handled ring ID 152mm, teeth 6 each 9mm wide and 4mm tall. Notice the fitment ring welded to this main ring, it is 170mm wide at the mouth tapers to 165mm up against the main ring with the teeth over a depth of 15mm. I think it could be made with out this ring. OD of the main ring is 170mm and it is 5mm thick. Handle sticks out about a foot. The tapered fitment welded on ring is much like what is used when installing pistons with rings that need to be compressed. But as I said I think you could easily do with out it.
All I have read lately is use a barnett pack and leave out the two thin inner spring things. Feed back on your project appreciated. The OEM pack is pretty outrageously priced.
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Old 03-26-2018, 04:51 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

I use the allenkey to align the teeth on the freewheel unit. That "excenter tool" is therefore not really needed.

The crank shaft locking pin tool and the clutch basket holder tool are essential for this job, because you cant torque the nut without it.

Without the clutch basket holder (but with crank lock tool), the springs will take up most of the force when torquing the nut.

Without the crank lock (but with clutch holder) the clutch will slip and the freewheel unit takes up the force causing the starter to spin backwards (not good for the brushes).

Either way.... i wouldn't do it without the right tools.
I bought my tools on ebay, and i have only used them 2-3 times sofar.
Admitingly, I have a little tool fetish, so its nice to see them hanging on my wall, knowing that i have them when i need them.

Other people use a rattlegun and but i wouldnt suggest using it.

When i am at home again, i'll throw the tool on my flatbedscanner and send you a 1:1 scan of the dimensions..... all you then have to do is to cut it from a 4mm steel plate....
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Old 03-26-2018, 04:53 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beech
Photo in post #5: Steel handled ring ID 152mm, teeth 6 each 9mm wide and 4mm tall. Notice the fitment ring welded to this main ring, it is 170mm wide at the mouth tapers to 165mm up against the main ring with the teeth over a depth of 15mm. I think it could be made with out this ring. OD of the main ring is 170mm and it is 5mm thick. Handle sticks out about a foot. The tapered fitment welded on ring is much like what is used when installing pistons with rings that need to be compressed. But as I said I think you could easily do with out it.
All I have read lately is use a barnett pack and leave out the two thin inner spring things. Feed back on your project appreciated. The OEM pack is pretty outrageously priced.

Thanks Beech, you are a waking book!

Mine is 2005. with cca. 30 000 km and it started to grind at the takeof. Later I found out somebody removed regulation from clutch lever to bring it closer to the grips.

Here in EU we have a TRW packs MCC611-8 (8 clutch plates without steel ones, cca 90eur) and MCC611PK (9 clutch plates (thinner variant) together with steel ones, cca 130eur) but as I read on the Internet people are complaining most narrow clutch plate teeths are 14 instead of 13 mm wide and should be modified before install. Barnett pack is cca 200eur, but I think I will end up buying this one.

Plan is to modify clutch basket, extract aluminium nozzle and replace it with new type of thrust adapter.

I will post a pictures of lamelar package + basket before and after modification, hopefully in next few weeks.

@Patrique, I know how do you feel about tools
I will buy this crankshaft locking tool then and manufacture basket holding tool. Do you have some more details about modifying thruster adapter to fit 2005 Bimmer?
If I figured out correctly it should be grinded cca. 1-2 mm more in the middle of pin, but to leave end of it with bigger diameter and to cut one v out of this fat end. Do you know to which diameter should I grind ending part to fit into the clutch shaft?
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Old 03-26-2018, 05:12 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

As mentioned above, no air or electric impact guns please!
I was playing with a K12 basket and its main bushing fit to the needle bearing in the basket. There is several thousanths play and this allows the basket to move .045" at the teeth. Nasty as mentioned in another thread.
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=62365
I ordered one of the bearings that is supposed to tighten up things. BMW does not sell the bearing separately and it seems to be no good anyway.

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=62365
INA NK35/30 NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING (35x45x30mm)

You can take the clutch cage bushing out, remove the little needle bearing for the oil pump drive. I held it in a lathe with brass protection. got a lot of wobble. But you can check by just seeing how much it wiggles inside the big needle bearing in there. Mine moved .003+". Bad... Not all do it seems and this was a K12. But worth checking. The bearing can be had from $28 to 50 bucks and easy to insert a new one.
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Old 03-27-2018, 05:56 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

I got no wobble or vibes?
WHens it gonna happen? 38 K on clock
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Old 03-27-2018, 09:22 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Then I would not worry about it I'd just do the clutch plate work and keep moving. I just get into fun minutia that often not relevant. I get hit by a truck next week and my kid is going to look at that bearing in the K bike box and say WTF.
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