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  #1  
Old 05-25-2015, 10:20 AM
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Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Picture guide on how to remove the clutch, the basket and how to reassemble it again. k1200/k1300 k40
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:30 PM
paulmogs paulmogs is offline
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Hey Pat, probably because we are "down under," some images go sideways/upside down when opened?
Can you change the plates, without removing the basket?
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:49 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

I have noticed that too, but when using my pad they are normal...... not sure what to do.

Yes you can change out the plates without removing the basket.
I know that not all clutch plates wear the same. For example on my clutch the 2 inner most are worn. So i won't be changing out all the plates
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:46 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

What is a cost-effective source for the clutch plates?

TIA
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:10 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmogs
some images go sideways/upside down when opened?

Fixed













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Old 05-27-2015, 11:02 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

I have a BARNETT Clutch ready to install.. I just have to wait for the opportune time to take the bike down for a couple of days to make repaire.

I also have to drain and fill the finial drive, replace the rubber bellows between the finial drive and the drive tube, Lube the splines and install my center stand.

A couple of questions for PAT.

- IF,,,, the oil pump chain isn't worn out and can be adjusted, how do you know when it is properly adjusted (other than purchasing that Damn BMW oil pump chain adjuster tool) ??

- Were your rivets loose and did it rattle when you had the bike in N and the clutch released?

- Speaking of that washer, what do you do if you find that it too big???

THANK YOU for the excellent pictures and the great write up.

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Old 05-28-2015, 11:27 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

@FOOBAR....... I bought a spare engine from the wrecker for 800 Dollars. It had the clutch still in it with only 35,000km. So i am changing out the inner two worn plates only.

@Bill Curlee...... The oil pump chain is properly adjusted when 90......excenter tool.....bla bla bla.....BMW bull...... :-)

Loosen the two screws on the plastic guide rail and push it to the right until the slack is gone. Don't overdue it though..... the plastic guide is only there to ''guide'' the chain, not to tension it!!

The rivets...... That is something i picked up while tuning my 1982 Vespa Scooter from 50cc to 136cc..... the basket and the drive gear were riveted together and i had 2 out of 3 loose. It caused the basket to shake at certain RPM ~3500-4000.
The Rattle noise that you get is most likely from the gearbox.....its most likely the same as my bike.
Unfortunately, the first generation of k1200 gearboxes have too much play in them and produce this intermitten clunking/rattle sound when in neutral. My bike is fine for the first 2-3 kilometer but when everything has reached operating temperature it starts to rattle if i don't hold the clutch pulled in.......
To get rid of every rattle/clunk/noisy shifting, buy a clutch+basket+oil pump/drive+gearbox from a 1300..... :-)

The washer on the free wheel unit........ I only picked this up while reading another thread on here. It spposedly causes some sort of vibration/rattle and even starting problems if the inner diameter is too big. All i could make out from the thread is that it resolved the guys issue by changing it to a closer tolerance washer......Can't see how that could stop the starter though unless it wedges it in between the gears or the whole assembly has too little play and it causes it bind......
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Old 05-28-2015, 11:55 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=29160

Scroll down to thread number 40
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:18 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Thanks very much for posting the photos. The slack in the oil pump chain is more than one would expect. I've looked at a couple and always wondered. Asked a German shop tech and his answer was the sprocket was not machined and needed a little extra slop. I spent money for the tool but so far the clutch is up to snuff.
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Old 05-28-2015, 11:11 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

The chain and how it drives the oil pump is somewhat of a weird piece of engineering. Under load, the chain is straight and will get the 90. Problem is though that when it feeds itself back through the chain guide it becomes loose again and flopps around until it gets to the oilpump sprocket...... that flopping chews out the oilpump sprocket and in worse case the chain jumps off and starts wrapping itself around the clutch basket.....
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Old 05-29-2015, 12:10 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Yes, I can see there is a problem if too loose. There is a "tool" to measure it.
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:30 AM
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Thumbs up Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

The pictures are very helpfull. I'm about to change my gearbox on my K1200s. For that, the clutch basket has to come off. In de BMW manual they tell you, you need all kinds of special tools. Thanks to these photo's I can save me a lot of money on these tools.
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:20 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Any one have a clutch basket removal tool 2006 K1200R or K1200RS they want to sell or rent ...(USA)
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Old 06-09-2016, 11:30 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by bernardo
Fixed


How in Hell do you expect me to keep my k1200 up side down during the course of the repair
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:59 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

ɥƃnoɥʇ oɟuᴉ ʇɐǝɹפ ˙ʎzzᴉp ƃuᴉʇʇǝƃ sɐʍ I ˙sʞuɐɥ┴
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Old 07-12-2016, 11:48 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by cabnfvr
ɥƃnoɥʇ oɟuᴉ ʇɐǝɹפ ˙ʎzzᴉp ƃuᴉʇʇǝƃ sɐʍ I ˙sʞuɐɥ┴


LOL! You made my day!
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Old 07-12-2016, 02:28 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Turn your auto rotate off.... That might helps
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:07 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by OILHEAD
How in Hell do you expect me to keep my k1200 up side down during the course of the repair

Easy my friend!

Simply invert your monitor

Or come here, I have the DVD repair manual and good asados
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Old 12-03-2016, 01:35 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Thanks for the info, very helpful!
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Old 03-26-2018, 02:46 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Well, mine clutch started to grind at the takeof. It seems usage of this clutch tool is very close. Can somebody write down dimensions of this tool (inner diammeter and tooth size)?

Patrique... do you still recommend to do it with allen key fixer or to obtain BMW cranck locking tool?
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Old 03-26-2018, 03:42 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Photo in post #5: Steel handled ring ID 152mm, teeth 6 each 9mm wide and 4mm tall. Notice the fitment ring welded to this main ring, it is 170mm wide at the mouth tapers to 165mm up against the main ring with the teeth over a depth of 15mm. I think it could be made with out this ring. OD of the main ring is 170mm and it is 5mm thick. Handle sticks out about a foot. The tapered fitment welded on ring is much like what is used when installing pistons with rings that need to be compressed. But as I said I think you could easily do with out it.
All I have read lately is use a barnett pack and leave out the two thin inner spring things. Feed back on your project appreciated. The OEM pack is pretty outrageously priced.
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Old 03-26-2018, 04:51 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

I use the allenkey to align the teeth on the freewheel unit. That "excenter tool" is therefore not really needed.

The crank shaft locking pin tool and the clutch basket holder tool are essential for this job, because you cant torque the nut without it.

Without the clutch basket holder (but with crank lock tool), the springs will take up most of the force when torquing the nut.

Without the crank lock (but with clutch holder) the clutch will slip and the freewheel unit takes up the force causing the starter to spin backwards (not good for the brushes).

Either way.... i wouldn't do it without the right tools.
I bought my tools on ebay, and i have only used them 2-3 times sofar.
Admitingly, I have a little tool fetish, so its nice to see them hanging on my wall, knowing that i have them when i need them.

Other people use a rattlegun and but i wouldnt suggest using it.

When i am at home again, i'll throw the tool on my flatbedscanner and send you a 1:1 scan of the dimensions..... all you then have to do is to cut it from a 4mm steel plate....
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Old 03-26-2018, 04:53 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beech
Photo in post #5: Steel handled ring ID 152mm, teeth 6 each 9mm wide and 4mm tall. Notice the fitment ring welded to this main ring, it is 170mm wide at the mouth tapers to 165mm up against the main ring with the teeth over a depth of 15mm. I think it could be made with out this ring. OD of the main ring is 170mm and it is 5mm thick. Handle sticks out about a foot. The tapered fitment welded on ring is much like what is used when installing pistons with rings that need to be compressed. But as I said I think you could easily do with out it.
All I have read lately is use a barnett pack and leave out the two thin inner spring things. Feed back on your project appreciated. The OEM pack is pretty outrageously priced.

Thanks Beech, you are a waking book!

Mine is 2005. with cca. 30 000 km and it started to grind at the takeof. Later I found out somebody removed regulation from clutch lever to bring it closer to the grips.

Here in EU we have a TRW packs MCC611-8 (8 clutch plates without steel ones, cca 90eur) and MCC611PK (9 clutch plates (thinner variant) together with steel ones, cca 130eur) but as I read on the Internet people are complaining most narrow clutch plate teeths are 14 instead of 13 mm wide and should be modified before install. Barnett pack is cca 200eur, but I think I will end up buying this one.

Plan is to modify clutch basket, extract aluminium nozzle and replace it with new type of thrust adapter.

I will post a pictures of lamelar package + basket before and after modification, hopefully in next few weeks.

@Patrique, I know how do you feel about tools
I will buy this crankshaft locking tool then and manufacture basket holding tool. Do you have some more details about modifying thruster adapter to fit 2005 Bimmer?
If I figured out correctly it should be grinded cca. 1-2 mm more in the middle of pin, but to leave end of it with bigger diameter and to cut one v out of this fat end. Do you know to which diameter should I grind ending part to fit into the clutch shaft?
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Old 03-26-2018, 05:12 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

As mentioned above, no air or electric impact guns please!
I was playing with a K12 basket and its main bushing fit to the needle bearing in the basket. There is several thousanths play and this allows the basket to move .045" at the teeth. Nasty as mentioned in another thread.
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=62365
I ordered one of the bearings that is supposed to tighten up things. BMW does not sell the bearing separately and it seems to be no good anyway.

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=62365
INA NK35/30 NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING (35x45x30mm)

You can take the clutch cage bushing out, remove the little needle bearing for the oil pump drive. I held it in a lathe with brass protection. got a lot of wobble. But you can check by just seeing how much it wiggles inside the big needle bearing in there. Mine moved .003+". Bad... Not all do it seems and this was a K12. But worth checking. The bearing can be had from $28 to 50 bucks and easy to insert a new one.
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Old 03-27-2018, 05:56 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

I got no wobble or vibes?
WHens it gonna happen? 38 K on clock
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Old 03-27-2018, 09:22 PM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

Then I would not worry about it I'd just do the clutch plate work and keep moving. I just get into fun minutia that often not relevant. I get hit by a truck next week and my kid is going to look at that bearing in the K bike box and say WTF.
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:11 AM
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Re: Clutch/Basket removal K1200/K1300 k40 Engine

So, this weekend I just changed my K1300S (2009) bike clutch out using OEM parts for everything. (we are talking money here). I wanted to add some details that I ran into. This appears to be a reasonable project, but it is deceiving. The devil is in the details. I do not recommend it for someone who does not like deep work. Unless you are going to leave the basket in the bike and just replace the plates. Even then, follow the rules. First time?, take notes, pictures and really look things over as it comes apart. I have an old fashioned solvent tank so cleaning parts is not too difficult. Otherwise, gloves and cheap brake cleaner spray.

First the pictures are great that is why my comments will not have photos. There is another thread I just saw a few weeks ago and an Australian rider posted a series of photos that are very good too, maybe someone will post the link in this thread. Another thing my main shaft nut was 30 mm's not 32. I used a Facom deep 12 point and it fits in. Anyone who wants their socket cut down to size send it to me and all it will cost you is postage both ways. I suspect most 12 point sockets will fit.

Taking the basket out is clear cut. There are two places that spring lowed double gears need to be in sync and there is no need to worry about this when pulling out stuff only going back in. I fell for trying to line up the free running starter gear with the factory alignment pin on the removal. In hindsight I think all would come out with no worries but I did preload the free loading gear with the factory tool which was not easy, you can push it in too far and it does not work. I used the factory tool in the crank sensor hole but if you use a basket holding tool to remove the nut, probably not needed. (I used it later).
So, remove the slave cylinder easing off screws alternately opposite so things wont bind. I generally let it dangle but this time I strung a bungie over to hold it up a little higher than the clutch case just to keep it out of the way. Don't kink the line!
The cover can be tight, there are two dowel alignment pins so if it does not come off easily some very light rubber hammer taps around the edges to loosen will work.
Remove the throw out bearing and its captured push pin. This is the famous pin that has 2 grouves in the 13 and 1 in the K12. Notice how large this bearing is. NO worries about holding in your clutch at stop lights!!! You need a tool to hold the clutch basket (factory term = coupling cap PN 2121 7 700 501 $1200. Note that it comes with all the little pieces in the drawing and are not listed in the package, two sstop disks, a bushing and a needle bearing, so don't buy them seperately) from rotating while you use your socket and a cheater bar on the 1/2" braker bar to remove the nut. Using a 1/2" ratchet risks braking the inside guts of your racket as this is 190 Nm which is near 125 ft/lbs.. Spin it off.

Remove the 21 21 7 700 514 LAMELLAR PACKAGE3.64 1 $1210.60
by wiggling it out. This is the point one can insert the Barnett package and put it all back together. OR
Taking the basket off is relatively easy, factory manual says to preload the starter idler gear, I did but I dont think it is needed. Just pull the basket out. It sticks. I got an exhaust spring tee handle hook and grabbed it at various places it seemed to be stuck and tapped the tee handle out with a screwdriver handle. It popped out. I think it sticks because of the very good fit with the two stop disks (thrust washers) and the opposing faces of the aluminum baskets.

So, my clutch had 113, 500 miles on it. I expected to see trash. No, all was good. All aluminum basket wear faces were fine and on depth wear at all, zero. The friction pads were worn to .143" and new plates are .148". So .005" worn on each plate. Wet clutch plate pads are very thin compared to dry. Two friction disks needed gunk cleaned out from between the pads the rest were relatively clean. If I cleaned up everything, it could have gone back together and run for many thousands more miles. The main basket needed some work where the plate tabs hit. A light to medium file job and some fine emery and they were serviceable. It is on the shelf. All bearings in good shape.

More stuff, the small tab is 13mm the rest are 14mm. Note the angle of the bevel spring that works with the small spacer ring on the first friction disk. This is the disk that wears into the aluminum of the disk hub on the K12's. The thing has an angle (called a bellville washer in some circles, but it is a spring here.)The high edge goes towards the bike if you forget to note it. Also the letters on the small friction plate tabs go towards the bike.

Oil pump chain. Forget the factory tool to set tension. Loosen the two T25 screws on the

Guard some and push to the right on the guard and use your right hand to push on the chain. Get the tension to a point that when the screws are re tightened to 9Nm the chain has slack but will not move left enough to hit the bottom of the guard.
The starter gear free wheel can rotate clockwise freely. This is your working direction. Rotate it until the hole appears near the bottom edge of the case. Take your pliers and pinch two teeth together so all teeth align. Now is your time to insert the factory 3mm tool all the way in or some other device that fits snugly enough to keep the to parts of the gear in alignment. Remember you have to pull it out when the basket is in place and there is much less room. I used the factory tool. But there are other options. The teeth have to be very close in alignment if not perfect.

Set the oil pump sprocket drive cogs slightly behind the position of the receiving holes in the back of the basket keeping in mind you are going to be turning the basket CCW. You will later need to sneak up with the sprocket cogs at the last stem of inserting the basket. All will become clear when you try all this 5 or 6 times.
Grab the basket and figure out a rotation of it that puts the female holes for above cogs just a little ahead of them. Your first job now is getting the back gear of the basket through the idler gear that has it's two parts lined up. Good. Somewhere in this mess, after you do this you have to make sure the splines match the hub of the disk plate holder. That will become obvious. The main split gears of the clutch hub will now hang up on the crank drive gear. I took a piece of square 3/8" steel rod a foot long (a long screwdriver will work but slippery) engaged the outer hub teeth and turned the hub CCW to align the teeth to slip on past the crank drive gear. Tiny increments. I put the crank lock back in for this but you could fiddle and do it. the gears will slip together but more than likely not flat with each other because of the oil drive tangs not meshing with their slots in the basket.

Now is when you take a small screwdriver and move the right side oil pump chain up to get the cogs to slip into the back of the basket. Push slightly on the basket while moving the chain up and you will feel a small click. Good.
The gear faces should all be flat with each other.

Now is time to insert the clutch pack, some fiddling here. You may have to move the main basket a little one way or another to let the splines of the inner plate basket engage. Use a flashlight.

I had a Facom (french) 12 point deep half inch drive socket which fits inside the spring clamp disk hole. Put the nut on, and torque it to 190 Nm. If you have tightened up the 6 screws of this plate that clamps the spring, loosen them so it can shift. Insert the push rod into the bearing and put the unit into the hole in the transmission shaft, fitting the bearing into the plate. Wiggle. Now tighten the screws equally around keeping the bearing centered and not jammed up. Tighten to 8Nm, twice.
All these parts, especially the friction disks need to be coated in engine oil, more the better. I soaked my friction plates several times. (did not pour 50 dollars of Motul into a pan but "basted" my plates 4 or 5 times). Failure to get oil on each side of the friction plates and a fair amount of it will cause the plates to burn.

If you buy a OEM clutch hub (coupling cap) it comes with several parts shown in the MAX diagram, 2 stop disks, the bushing and needle bearing for oil pump drive. So all is new stuff. Plus the steel plates in the kit are dimpled.

I took it for a drive and it worked like a dream, smooth and no chatter.

Add this prolonged discussion to all the other good advice and it should help.

One set of pliers I have helped. A set of long nose right angle tip guys. Quite robust and can grab as hard as I can grip with no hint of flex. I also have torque wrenches that go down to 5Nm and another that is in inch lbs. so the small stuff can be set properly.
There is a diagram on how to tighten the cover case screws. 3Nm firs and a 90 degree turn after that. The pattern is basically #1 at the center top, then the far left at 9 Oclock spreading out top and bottom from there. One at the far end the short one, then come back and do the rest from the middle top to the right and the bottom from the middle to the right. Just some common sense. Put the gasket in dry on clean and dry metal case surfaces. Good riding.
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Beech Arriba, Abajo, Al Centro, Adentro
Mount Vernon Cannon Works
K1300S
S1000R
I need a Honda sport or better yet a Monkey
I change your tires, you buy them on the web, I do the work $40, trying to keep riders on the road.
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