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"K12S/KR" Technical Q&A K1200S/R Technical Questions/Answers

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  #1  
Old 08-31-2017, 10:00 AM
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mkrouse mkrouse is online now
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Replacing Clutch Plates

Do I need the special BMW tool 111842 [locating pin listed on my CD] that is placed in the sensor bore?

I'm replacing the OEM plates with Barnett plates. My 58,000 mile clutch has never exhibited any of the typical problems except for a hard 'clunk' from neutral to first gear AND a slight squealing engaging the clutch in 1st gear from a stop [when hot].

I have not yet been able to locate a seller of this locating pin. Any help appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 08-31-2017, 11:29 AM
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Beech Beech is offline
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Re: Replacing Clutch Plates

If you read the posts on replacing the plates some folks have not used it I believe. I would check them over carefully. There is advice on the Barnett pack out there also. The pin is for sale via a dealer. Also, I suggest you use a basket holder, impact wrench puts all that nasty on the gear train. My 2 cents anyway.
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  #3  
Old 08-31-2017, 07:58 PM
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Re: Replacing Clutch Plates

Thanks.

I have the basket holder, gasket, and bolts. Mixed messages on the use of the locating pin. I've read many threads.
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  #4  
Old 09-01-2017, 12:54 AM
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Re: Replacing Clutch Plates

I use the pin and basket holder....

If you use a rattle gun like some folks do, you are not just rattling the nut but everything elso too, beginning with the freewheel unit from the starter motor.

The pin is not that expensive and is also used when re-shimming your valves.
And you can always sell it on ebay, no problem.
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  #5  
Old 09-02-2017, 08:45 AM
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Re: Replacing Clutch Plates

I purchased the locating pin from Max BMW. $98 plus shipping. Expensive is relative...to many things.
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  #6  
Old 09-06-2017, 04:28 PM
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Re: Replacing Clutch Plates

I've installed a Barnett set of plates, but I'm not bolted together, just fit the plates.

Hey. The OEM has green O rings attached to several friction plates? The tabs are smaller than the lettered tabs and the O ring is stretched onto the tabs.

Not sure I can stretch them onto my Barnett friction tabs. Probably won't fit. Will my clutch now rattle like hell? Should I mix the OEM O ring friction plates with the new Barnett plates?

I can email or maybe PM a picture..
Attached Images
File Type: jpg OEM Clutch Pack.jpg (54.7 KB, 24 views)
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  #7  
Old 09-06-2017, 07:12 PM
paulmogs paulmogs is offline
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Re: Replacing Clutch Plates

John, (fourhundred4) makes mention of the green castration rings in attached thread.

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=51004

EDIT: my 07 K12S had the rings, Barnett clutch went in without them.
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Old 09-06-2017, 07:37 PM
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Re: Replacing Clutch Plates

Thanks. I'm buttoning up without green rings. Barnett total package. We'll see how it rides. My only problem has been a slight squeal when taking off in 1st gear. BTW my OEM clutch pack showed minimum/normal wear for 57,000 miles.
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  #9  
Old 09-07-2017, 02:43 PM
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Re: Sorry. More Help Please

After buttoning the bike back up, I cannot move the clutch lever. Crap. So I unbolted the slave cylinder from the clutch cover, and with trepidation squeezed the lever. Could not. No movement. Any ideas?
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  #10  
Old 09-14-2017, 01:59 PM
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Recap of Clutch Plate Replacement

58,000 miles.
No slipping.
Squealing starting off in 1st gear.
Purchased Barnett plate pack.
Used both BMW recommended tools.
Replaced cover bolts [18].
Removal and replacement straight forward.
Slave hung loose for several days resulting in locked clutch lever [no clue/no advice].
Drained system. Flushed and bled using Magura Blood [red]. Top to bottom.
Received BMW Red VLS from Max BMW. P/N 07 51 2 240 347 after installing Magura.
I may use the red VLS later.

Clutch performs like new. No 1st gear squeal or judder.
No leaks.
Not many miles just yet.
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  #11  
Old 09-18-2017, 05:29 PM
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Re: Recap of Clutch Plate Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkrouse
58,000 miles.
No slipping.
Squealing starting off in 1st gear.
Purchased Barnett plate pack.
Used both BMW recommended tools.
Replaced cover bolts [18].
Removal and replacement straight forward.
Slave hung loose for several days resulting in locked clutch lever [no clue/no advice].
Drained system. Flushed and bled using Magura Blood [red]. Top to bottom.
Received BMW Red VLS from Max BMW. P/N 07 51 2 240 347 after installing Magura.
I may use the red VLS later.

Clutch performs like new. No 1st gear squeal or judder.
No leaks.
Not many miles just yet.

Did you really get 58 thousand miles on your original clutch? If so, very impressive.

I thought my '06 K1200R, after buying it used(8k miles on it), had a clutch issue, but the first time I tried launching it I was in 2ND GEAR and didn't realize it...thought I had a clutch issue but it's been fine since.

Other than the rattle from the basket, everything is good. Did you also get rattling from your stock clutch setup?
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  #12  
Old 09-18-2017, 06:42 PM
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Re: Recap of Clutch Plate Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by haste
Did you really get 58 thousand miles on your original clutch? If so, very impressive. Did you also get rattling from your stock clutch setup?

Yes 58K. Lot of western trips. No track time. No excessive quick starts. Always to the redline at least once per day trip. My clutch has never rattled in any gear or neutral. There was not a terrible amount of 'paste' when disassembling the original plate pack. Not very much wear that I could determine, yet it squealed taking off in 1st gear.

Now, after 300 miles on the Barnett plate pack, no squealing and it feels very strong in 1st gear. My oil has always been the 5W40 since BMW recommended the change. Still a thunk from neutral to 1st, but maybe not quite as earth shattering. As others have mentioned, pulling in the clutch for about 10-15 seconds, while in neutral, eliminates ANY thunk going to first.
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