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"KRS/GT" Technical Q&A K1200RS/GT Technical Questions/Answers

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Old 01-10-2010, 02:53 AM
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HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

So my X-mas present to myself was a HID headlight from DDM tuning. Based upon the recommendations on this site I selected the 35W 4500K bulb system. (Jerry, I know you're talking to DDM, based upon my experience, the 35W system is plenty) Delievered it was about $73. (This included CA's 9.75% sales tax ).

This included two complete bulbs and ballasts, as the system is sold for cars. I replaced only the low beam. So, I've got a second bulb with all the hardware, should I decide to replace the high beam, or for a spare.

Note, this was done on my '02 RS. I imagine that all the years of the RS, (from what, 1997 to 2005?) would be pretty much the same, as would the GT, (2003 - 2005, I think) although the GT with its electrically operated windscreen, there may be a bit less room for the ballast, and taking the headlight out might be a bit more complicated, but I cannot really speak to that.

The bulb and wiring come this way:



Note the red and black wires with the blade connectors, I mention them again below. The ballast is another piece. Note the black piece at the bottom of the bulb enclosure, its an extension that apparently is necessary for some applications, but not here, so it gets cut off.

Also note the plug on the left of the photo, it required some messaging of the hole drilled in the light cover, which I have photographed below. Also, the clear plastic unscrews, its just there to protect the bulb, the bottom half of the plastic cover has to be cut off as well, exposing the bulb itself,




The ballast looks like this,




To start the installation, you have to remove the headlight, which requires removal of the nose piece on the fairing. I won't go through that process here, but with the nose piece removed, access to the parking light is easy, and it comes out first just by gently pulling down on it,



once that is removed, there are three torx screws holding in the headlight assembly, and then you remove the main power plug to the headlight, it sits here,



with that disconnected, its just a matter of pulling out the entire assembly, and exposing the back cover,



and then opening the back of the assembly by lifting and moving the silver bar down and lifting off the cover, exposing the interior of the light assembly, the low beam bulb is the top one, and note the yellow and brown wires. The yellow is hot, the brown the ground. This plugs into the back of the existing halogen bulb and is removed, as is the halogen bulb by unclipping the spring closure. The red and black wires from the kit that I mentioned above, plug into the plug that was attached to the halogen, red wire to yellow wire in the plug, and black wire to the brown. They slip right in.



The HID bulb plugs in, an exact fit, into the opening for the bulb, and the spring clip is replaced, and the plug with the brown and yellow wires will then just sit inside the housing after you replace the cover.

Wired up it looks like this,



and I put some shrink wrap tubing on, well, because I could, and I thought it might help prevent the bladed wires from pulling out of the socket, as unlikely as that might be, and its a little bit of a squeeze to locate the plug back inside the assembly, but not that big of a deal,



Before you replace the cover on the back of the light assembly you have to drill a hole in the cover for the extra HID wiring, and based upon the truly excellent instructions that come with the bulbs, they say to drill a 7/8" hole, directly above the light socket where the bulb is to be replaced, I marked the spot with a spring loaded punch to help avoid the drill bit drifting off center, you can see the mark left by the punch,



and the resultant hole, which, because the cover is rigid, is not quite big enough for the plug at the end of the wiring that I mentioned above, to fit through,



the directions are for a car, and I suspect that the cover on a car's headlight is not rigid, as the plug would not fit through the 7/8" whole, and I didn't want to make the hole too much bigger as the kit comes with a grommet that is designed for a 7/8" hole, so I whittled on the cover with a razor knife to accomodate the size of the plug,




and then I buttoned up the cover following the instructions, (excuse the messy workbench),




the next step is to reinstall the headlight into the opening, tighten up the mounting screws, and locate the ballast, which I did here, using double stick mounting tape that came with the kit, and some super strong Velcro like material that I purchased from Radio Shack years ago, there are two pieces to locate and it took a bit of trial and error before I found a spot that I was happy with,




I made sure that the tupperware would fit before I tightened everything down. From this point you connect the wires from the back of the headlight to the wires from the ballast, which is utterly idiot proof as this idiot did it successfully. I then zip tied the wires to assure they wouldn't catch on any suspension bit.



and then having plugged the parking light back in, and reconnecting the main power plug to the light assembly, and with everything put back together with the exception of the tupperware, I turned on the key, held my breath, and to my delight, the light turned on,

So, was it worth it? I haven't ridden the bike at night yet, and generally I don't ride that much at night, but I do know that the stock lights are pretty pitiful. However, before I started the project, I turned all the lights off in the garage, turned on the stock headlight, and took a photo. I did the same thing after the installation. And candidly I was a bit disappointed, as my memory lead me to believe that there really wasn't that much difference, HOWEVER, when I looked at the photos I was SHOCKED, so you decide.

First, the lights in the garage off, and a photo of the stock headlight illuminating the garage door,



and then from about the same spot, garage lights off, and HID light turned on,




How difficult was it. Not that much. I'm reasonably comfortable working on the bike, and probably an average "shade tree" mechanic. So had I sat down at one time, removed the tupperware, removed the light, wired up the headlight for the new bulb, and replaced the light, and replaced the tupperware, it would have taken about 3 hours. Worth it? Based upon my admittedly not too scientific garage lighting experiments, an unqualified yes. I'll report back when I've tested it at night.


If anyone has any questions about this, let me know. I'm pretty happy with the result.
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:25 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Craig

I have made a link to this great article at our 'Link section'.. and I must say; I am impressed by the overall 'light-mass' HID provides, thinking of your garage shots.. almost unbelieveable..

edit:

Hey you fooled me and told before editing your thread, that the below picture was 'with HID Light ON'... I do think it should be 'with Fluorecent tubes ON'



Well I had to laugh.. when I saw 'how actually' it should be.. when you rearranged your post... Anyhow it is lot of light there
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:07 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS



It's pretty tight in there, can you get the cover off to change the high beam bulb without
removing the whole headlight assembly?
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Old 01-10-2010, 10:50 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Cousi, maybe the bulb could be replaced without removing the light fixture, but you're right its pretty tightly packaged. I suspect that replacing the stock H7 halogen bulb would be more feasible, but I've not heard of any there being reliability issues. I hope that I don't find out in the middle of the night in the middle of the desert somewhere.

Kjell, without me realizing it, when I first took the photos of the bike with the HID lights turned on, I left the camera's flash on. I edited the post when I realized my dummy mistake.
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:12 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by CJS350
I hope that I don't find out in the middle of the night in the middle of the desert somewhere.

Another reason to have a set of PIAAs under the oil cooler.

Fantastic tutorial though, I'm thinking of doing it on the GS. Like it needs a few more
lights!
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:59 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Great write up & wow to the advancements in HID kits!

Attached are two pics of the "Xtreme HID" ballast that I put in (2) years ago. At that time, that ballast size & system cost ~ $200 seemed typical (good enough for me to pick that model).
PS: The wires were dressed cleaner following my attached "mid progress" pics.

Wow to both the size & cost decreases in that short time frame. Some excellent looking details like wire loom on the DDM kit as well. I'm impressed with both the product & your install.

The lighter weight of the DDM ballast is a good thing in many ways. One of them is that the weight of mine made that plastic panel droop over time/heat exposure. It tweaked right back up when I reshaped it with a heat gun while doing the attached Stebel Nautilus horn install. The lighter weight ballast of the DDM will be much better for preventing that issue.

Some light pattern observations:
  • The stray light doesn't seem any worse between the stock & HID light for the bike. With some light housing reflectors, HID bulbs in a no-HID designed reflector (as I was mentioning in Pirate's DDM thread, can become an issue)
  • The color temp seems very bluish for 4,300 k. Is that color accurate to the in person color? Is 3,000k from DDM (less blue worth others considering) in your opinion? It looks good, just more blue looking in the pic than I would have expected for that color temp.
Nice install & write up!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1050341.JPG (105.6 KB, 332 views)
File Type: jpg P1050348.JPG (95.0 KB, 290 views)
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Old 01-10-2010, 01:04 PM
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Thumbs up Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Thanks for the pics and info
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:03 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Nice documentation of the install; thanks for taking the time! Your layout is pretty much identical to mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJS350
This included two complete bulbs and ballasts, as the system is sold for cars. I replaced only the low beam. So, I've got a second bulb with all the hardware, should I decide to replace the high beam, or for a spare.
FYI, they also sell a motorcycle kit with just a single bulb setup. The stock high beam is an H3, so your extra bulb won't go there.

Photos are always tough to compare unless you have strict control of the camera settings like exposure. The best comparison will be made with two bikes in the same photo. I'll try to do this the next time I meet up with tennengr, unless he has his HID installed by then!

One thing your shots do show is that the beam pattern is identical between the two. One problem with some cheap kits is that the HID ignition point doesn't always line up where the old bulb filament would be, but it's obvious that yours is perfect.

One last thing, rather than trim the 7/8' hole to fit the connector through, I just disassembled the connector and reassembled on the other side. I'm not sure it was worth the trouble though.
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:13 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

The reason you don't have the "light-pattern" issue with HID is the '98-'05 K1200RS's low beam is totally reflected light. The low beam bulb sits directly behind the high beam reflector, so no direct light from the low beam goes out the lense.
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:30 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

I received a PM asking about the kit I installed, so maybe there are others with the same question, so here's the link,

http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p...=101&parent=85

Based upon info gleaned from another thread here at the site

( http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?...&highlight=HID ),

I ordered the set up with 35W and a 4000 lumen bulb (H7 bulb for the low beam, which I ordered, and H3 bulb ( I think) for the high beam, which I did not order). I ordered on line and got two bulbs and two ballasts as its designed for a car - the price is now $49.95. Perhaps if you call and order they'll sell a single bulb and ballast for even less.
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:53 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by CJS350
Perhaps if you call and order they'll sell a single bulb and ballast for even less.
Yes they will ($25 for one). No need to call, just go here:
http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p...=105&parent=61
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Old 02-13-2010, 05:58 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Ray (Razel) is correct, a 15/16" hole is the way to go. I drilled a 7/8" hole as instructed then started opening it up with a deburring tool and ended up at exactly 15/16". No need to cut the slots for the plug, just take the clip off it then slide the ripped yellow sealing ring up the plug a little ways and insert the plug one side at a time. It is tight, but will go




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Old 08-03-2010, 01:08 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Following up on all of the above (for which, many, many thanks!), I want to do the high beam, too, on my '03 KRS. There seem to be two gotchas, though.

First, where to put the dust seal with the wiring - my guess is basically over the H3 socket area, as with the H7. Still, if someone's been there...?

Second, and more importantly, is the problem of the ground lead. The original lamp grounds through a clip that has two wires attached to it. One is the ground for the H7 (low beam) and the other wire goes off to the three lead connector to one side of the lamp assembly. I can think of some ways to splice things together but if someone has a better idea?

- - - - - - - -

On the 7/8" hole: there's a way to avoid hogging the hole out. Pull the pins in the connector out of the plug and there's no problem.

In setting to replace the low beam, I measured the width of the oval, two conductor plug which goes into the top of the ballast; the plugs are now a total of 1 1/8" at the widest point. Even with some creative juggling and tugging, the plug just isn't going through. I didn't check the diameter of the dust cover for the wiring - maybe a 1 1/8" will work, maybe not, but the moisture seal won't be all that effective. I started thinking about just passing the bulb through the hole but the base flange rules that out. The next idea was to look at the plug, and, sure enough, it comes apart.

Before doing anything else, make a note of which wire goes to which side of the plug!!!

Start by removing the strain relief piece held by two "ears", one on either side of the plug. The plug contacts are slid in through the holes in the back of the plug, and held in place by a tab that pops out of the contacts once they're in place. There is a small notch in the contact hole, on the inner side of hole, closest to the other contact hole. Slide a small jeweler's screwdriver (or maybe a small paperclip wire) in the notch while gently tugging on the wire attached to the contacts. With the locking tab pushed into the contacts, the wire and contact will slide out. Repeat for the other wire, and that's it. The 7/8" hole is big enough, without grinding.

To return the contacts to the plug, slide them into the back of the plug, with the locking tabs going into the notch used to release the tab. The contact should lock back into place. If not, check that the locking tab sticks out from the contacts and try again.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:47 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

what.. no pictures???
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:06 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by NCStephen
what.. no pictures???

For the verbally challenged...



The H7 is installed and works. A road test follows tonight, weather willing.

The biggest time consumer turned out to be placing the ballast assembly where the wires don't bind, the forks don't smack anything, etc.

The biggest surprise, so far, is how long it takes for the lamp to come up to full brightness. For the low beam, this is no biggie but for the high beam...

This is a 35W 5000K lamp - it's definitely on the blue side. Call it blue-white. The parking light, by comparison, seems almost banana yellow.
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:32 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Test ride comments:
First and foremost, 3M's "magic fingers" answer to Velcro sux. The adhesive let go about 20 yards from garage. Feh. I jury-rigged something and tried the light out on the road.

It's brighter and what it lights up is really lit up. The light seems to be a "cold white" instead of the blue-white I saw in the garage. It's not far off from the color of the lights in our X3, equipped with xenon lamps. The light pattern still cuts off at a point which can be over-run at 40-45 MPH - this is just a function of the lens design, not the lamp.

Turning on the halogen H3 high beam is interesting. The light is definitely yellower and doesn't add much in the area lit by the HID H7. Further down the road, there's some light there but it's not as apparent as the HID H7's area. Guess that means the HID is better, huh?
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:01 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by RBEmerson
For the verbally challenged...
The biggest surprise, so far, is how long it takes for the lamp to come up to full brightness. For the low beam, this is no biggie but for the high beam...
.

That is why most will stick to the H3 instead of the high beam HID....
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:04 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Oh Craig, great tutorial bud!

Even I could put that together... maybe...

My GS has the low beam HID and... Well worth it!

Cheers
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:56 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Given the stock lights are... ah... shall we say "disappointing", I really need (not just want) something better. I'm not talking about "I ain't happy if paint ain't blistering off the car in front of me", I'm talking about enough light to get down the road at a comfortable pace. Life out here in deer country is exciting enough when I can see where I'm going - no point in making it harder with dim lights.

The saving grace with the HID in the KRS is that the H7 is always on, so there's no gap in lighting when switching from low to high beam. Heck, even our X3's lights take a little time to come up to full brightness when first switched on, so I guess it's the price of having HID's. ('Course, the X3's light have clever little shutters to change where the light goes when changing the lights from low to high beam and back)

There's always the option for adding lights. But it seems to me that's mostly repeating what was done originally, albeit with some control over where light is thrown. I had Hella FF50's on the Connie, and they worked well. But the mount looked like a pair of driving lights stuck at the end of highway peg struts (funny, that's what I used...) - not bad, but not ...what?... organic to the bike's design.

Ah, me... decisions, decisions...
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Old 08-04-2010, 06:32 PM
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Ballast installation

Here are two images of the final (I hope!) location of the H7 ballast units. I was able to get some of the 3M "magic fingers" stuff to work. The large, flat part of the ballast unit is flat against the air intake box, while the HV transformer portion is attached to that. The excess cable is held with cable ties.

This image is from the right side and gives, I hope some sense of where the box(es) wound up.



This image shows a close-up of the boxes.



This installation is on an '03 KRS. I decided not to mount the H7 ballast against the (cruise control??) computer on the left side (the blue label reading "BMW RS" is on that box), as I figure the ballast is going to unload some heat and the computer doesn't need that. When I install the H3 lamp, I have another spot that it can go into without adding a heat load to the computer.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:43 PM
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Re: Ballast installation

I just got back from a 30 mile test hop and... it all works and nothing fell off.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:55 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

If you are looking for a place to mount your hi-beam ballast and igniter. I double-face taped mine to the underside of that bracket that runs between the headstock and dash.
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:35 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Just behind the computer on the left side there's a shelf's big enough for both parts of the ballast system. It's almost big enough for two set of ballast boxes but not quite. Goodness knows I tried enough ways to make them fit. Ah, well, if nothing else, this project is certainly ...ah... an opportunity to excel. Oh, is it ever that...
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Old 08-04-2010, 10:25 PM
Bruce C Bruce C is offline
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

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Originally Posted by RBEmerson
Just behind the computer on the left side there's a shelf's big enough for both parts of the ballast system. It's almost big enough for two set of ballast boxes but not quite. Goodness knows I tried enough ways to make them fit. Ah, well, if nothing else, this project is certainly ...ah... an opportunity to excel. Oh, is it ever that...

That's the top of the left radiator air deflector. I couldn't use it as that is where I mounted my Painless 7-circuit fuse panel.
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Old 08-04-2010, 10:49 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Sigh... I hadn't thought about that, but I do need one for the controller for my heated gear and some other proposed farkles. Choices, choices, choices...
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Old 08-06-2010, 02:12 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

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Originally Posted by Bruce C
If you are looking for a place to mount your hi-beam ballast and igniter. I double-face taped mine to the underside of that bracket that runs between the headstock and dash.

I did that too with the Low and High Beam ballasts, so that they're toed in toward the front of the bike. I also zip tied them through the holes on that bracket.
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:14 PM
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Question Installing H3 high beam lamp

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Originally Posted by IGWright
I did that too with the Low and High Beam ballasts, so that they're toed in toward the front of the bike. I also zip tied them through the holes on that bracket.

The high beam (H3) installation... how did you mount the bulb in the headlight?

This thing is making me crazy enough to want to tease a fat kid with a Hostess Twinkie!

I took the headlight apart, impressed myself again with how well I managed the H7 installation, and started to pull the H3 lamp out. And that's when the wheels started to fall off. [/facepalm]

Tugging on the handle for the black plastic adapter was a PITA. I finally got it out, only to see the metal adapter/collar, that attaches to the plastic bit, still sitting in the reflector assembly. OK - I fished that out. I looked at the H3. I looked at the H3 DDM Tuning sent. Uh, what part of no effin' way don't they get? Looking at their how-to, they assume a nice sane mount similar to the H7, with two spring clips holding the lamp flange against the reflector. Ain't gonna happen here! No spring clips, the flange is an inch or more deep, and the rest of the hardware is multiply useless.

Soooooooooooooooooooooo... how'd ya do it?
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:44 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Use the search function for, "hi beam replacement - KRS". There might be some info in that thread you can use.
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Old 08-10-2010, 07:19 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

BTDT, still looking for the T-shirt.

What little new info I found confirms that the lamp carrier needs to be cut up to thread the HID H3's leads through it (no surprise). After that, the discussion got rather vague. There was a mention of someone taking pictures of the job but if they're on the site somewhere, I can't find them.

Here's what we're playing with:


The halogen H3 is at the bottom. The HID H3 is in the middle. The H3 lamp carrier is at the top.

The carrier breaks down into two parts. There is a metal collar with some tangs, etc. to keep the lamp oriented correctly (the light colored part on the right in the photo). In the black section on the left, there's a spring which is the ground contact for the halogen lamp. It also presses the H3 into place on the metal collar.

Looking at the HID H3, the spring is going to have to go. The good news is that shouldn't be too hard. The bad news is the two tangs that hold the metal collar to the black plastic bit are sufficiently bent so they no longer hold the collar to plastic base (makes me think someone replaced the H3 and got it wrong... gngh...). There seems to be about 1" of free space in the collar and plastic base; the part of the HID H3 extending back from the base (the wires run through it) seems to be 1.10" deep. Maybe a little stuffing and packing will work. Maybe not.

Help!
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Old 08-10-2010, 11:08 PM
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Cool Re: Installing H3 high beam lamp

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Originally Posted by RBEmerson
The high beam (H3) installation... how did you mount the bulb in the headlight?

This thing is making me crazy enough to want to tease a fat kid with a Hostess Twinkie!

I took the headlight apart, impressed myself again with how well I managed the H7 installation, and started to pull the H3 lamp out. And that's when the wheels started to fall off. [/facepalm]

Tugging on the handle for the black plastic adapter was a PITA. I finally got it out, only to see the metal adapter/collar, that attaches to the plastic bit, still sitting in the reflector assembly. OK - I fished that out. I looked at the H3. I looked at the H3 DDM Tuning sent. Uh, what part of no effin' way don't they get? Looking at their how-to, they assume a nice sane mount similar to the H7, with two spring clips holding the lamp flange against the reflector. Ain't gonna happen here! No spring clips, the flange is an inch or more deep, and the rest of the hardware is multiply useless.

Soooooooooooooooooooooo... how'd ya do it?

Sorry, I was gone all afternoon.

I used Office gum for sticking pictures on the wall to mark the holes in the Tupperware. I turned the lights around backwards in their sockets with the bulbs intact. Placed the gum in approximately the right spot and pushed the assembly back together. When I pulled it apart the gum had a clear center mark to indicate where to drill. I used a drill press. 1 hole was 1" and the other was 7/8", but I don't remember which was which.

For the High Beam the key is to use the existing break in the bracket to feed the wires. Orient the bracket and the bulb carefully and drill 2 holes centered with the wiring from the bulb. The holes should be the same diameter as the strain relief for the wires. Then cut from one hole to the other and widen the curf (yes that's a real word - hello High School Wood Working Class) so that the outer most wire can be fed through from the bracket opening.

If you cut your holes VERY accurately, the bracket will hold the bulb. I found this part extremely taxing and time consuming, so it's best done with a lot of patience, a clear day and a good night's sleep under your belt.

I grounded both lights together, but I can't remember exactly how.

There's also a metal piece associated with the High Beam bracket that I think I just left on.

Sorry about the excess verbiage. Since I need to replace my Pilot Light anyway I take some pictures and hopefully that will clear things up.
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Old 08-10-2010, 11:34 PM
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Re: Installing H3 high beam lamp

I can see tying the grounds for the H7 and H3 together without resorting to soldering leads and stuff. Thanks for the tips on finding out where stuff pokes out against the removable cover on the light, and where there's room to drill a hole. (FWIW, a 7/8" hole works fine, if you disassemble the 12V oval connector, that goes to the 85V power supply, to pass the 12V leads through the hole; the two HTconnectors, of course, go through as they are)

The part that's really driving me nuts is mounting the H3 HID lamp. I suspect the high beam "socket" on my bike is ...ah... "out of spec" thanks to someone putting it together the wrong way around at some point in the past. The parts are all there, but they don't click into place the way it looks as though they should, and as the Clymer book suggests. However, even if that were OK, I'm still not clear about how to mount the H3 HID firmly, so it doesn't rattle around or otherwise get into trouble. Past that, with lead dress, it's pretty much a case of doing what I did with the H7 lamp all over again.
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:17 AM
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Cool Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Your pictures jogged my memory:
Pull the metal bracket off if the bulb socket and place the HID bulb into the metal bracket. Rotate it until it fits the grooves and indents.

I also had trouble with it clicking into place. I remedied it by hand squeezing it in the right places to allow the clips to click into the corresponding grooves on the plastic portion of the bracket.

You won't be able to click the metal and the plastic bracket components together with the HID bulb in place until you've made the modifications to the plastic piece.
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:23 AM
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Cool Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Also, I got the oval connector through the hole by filing a groove on one side of the hole to allow that tongue to get through.

Although your method is probably more waterproof.
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:56 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

One day somebody will sell a high beam kit with a replacement headlight socket adapter for BMW's - that's what's needed.

My H3 HID had a metal flange just like the halogen but with wires coming out the bottom. I did do a small amount of Dremmeling, but I vaguely remember drilling parallel holes in the metal casing of the oem holder and sliding in 2 short lengths of stainless welding wire. That's what comes up against the flange of my HID bulb to hold it square in the oem holder.

Since there is no glue anywhere, there is nothing to get hot or get erroded by UV and cause the lamp to work loose and misalign.
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:10 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

The low voltage connector comes apart without too much aggro. The trick is in getting the tab, holding the contact in place, pushed back from the connector housing. The contact slides back out of the connector easily once that's done.

I can try giving the metal part a light squeeze to encourage the tabs on the plastic part to grab. I guess it's really the plastic base that sets everything in place, anyway. The two guiding rails along the base and the general friction fit seem to do much of the "and stay in there!" work.

I'll pull the spring and just hope that the back of the HID lamp, the base, and collar all work out to press the lamp into place. Needless to say, I'll take some more pictures as I go along.

Voxmagna, I'm not clear on how you set up the wires to press the lamp into place. Did you bend them to act somewhat like the original grounding spring or...?

- - - -

I'll post some pictures of the two parts of the base later today, in hopes it suggests a good way to put things together reliably. I'm trying to avoid what a friend calls a "shoemaker job". In Gunther's estimation, if it looks like a shoemaker did it, it's not a good job.
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:08 PM
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Cool Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Agreed. You want to have the bike back together with a sense of everything being done exactly right.

I'm going to go back to a sense that rotating the light in the metal bracket should reveal one alignment that fits (all from memory).
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Old 08-11-2010, 06:35 PM
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H3 socket, plastic base and spring

At this point I've finally gotten the metal collar to stay clipped onto the plastic base. It's interesting to see how a light tap from a rubber mallet will put things out of round...

Here are three pictures of the plastic base and the grounding spring. The first picture shows the spring in the base. The spring has roughly a Z shape inside the base.



Looking at the base from the top (the part you see when looking at the back of the headlight reflector, there's a tab sticking up from the spring. In the tab is another little tab that keeps the spring from slipping out of the base.



Push the small tab down with a couple of light taps on a small screw driver, and the spring slides out of the base. Here's the base and the spring, side by side but in the same relative positions they'd be in if still assembled.



The next task is to figure out how best to cut a slot to pass the high tension (HT) leads, from the lamp, through the plastic base.

- - - -

For the curious, I'm shooting all of these pictures with the camera in my BlackBerry Storm. The images get passed to Photoshop, mostly for cropping and light level shifting.
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Old 08-11-2010, 09:34 PM
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10 pounds of lamp in a 5 pound socket

Cutting the plastic base was easy enough. I picked a place that would maintain as much as possible of locking and locating tabs and still used some of the existing hole in the base.



Here's where things get a little messier. The rib needs to be ground away and a hole drilled in the center of the base to let the HT leads through. I centered the hole about where the "A" is.



And this is where the wheels have fallen off. I drilled a hole that's just shy of 7/16" in diameter and I cut a small channel to get the wires in the middle of the base. It took some time with various abrasive bits to remove some of the rib, drill the hole, and then clean things up. I then put the metal collar and lamp together (only one way they fit together, of course) and started to slide the metal collar on to the plastic base.



The lamp base itself is something like 1/8 to 3/16" too long to let the locking tabs on the base grab the collar. If I open up the hole in the center of the plastic base enough to let the collar grab the tabs, there's nothing to hold the lamp in place. I might be able to do some grinding on the base of the lamp, but one slip and the HT leads' insulation could be compromised. Bye-bye lamp.

How did anyone else deal with this problem???
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:04 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Sorry no pics, but all I did was to open up the bottom of the socket enough to give clearance to the lamp, ran the wires through and tied them up to the plastic tab sticking out from the back with a couple zapstraps. Then I pushed the collar back on. I had to fiddle a bit to align the bulb,but so far so good and I really like seeing WAY ahead.
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:37 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

My HIDs have been in 3 years and haven't shifted.

I can't tell if my parts are the same as yours and please don't ask me for details I've forgotten now. Here are some photos from my archive.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg HID_E_small.jpg (52.9 KB, 74 views)
File Type: jpg HID_F_small.jpg (73.8 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg HID_G_small.jpg (69.9 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg HID_H_small.jpg (71.4 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg HID_I_small.jpg (189.8 KB, 151 views)
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Old 08-12-2010, 03:40 PM
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Re: 10 pounds of lamp in a 5 pound socket

Quote:
Originally Posted by RBEmerson
Cutting the plastic base was easy enough. I picked a place that would maintain as much as possible of locking and locating tabs and still used some of the existing hole in the base.

Here's where things get a little messier. The rib needs to be ground away and a hole drilled in the center of the base to let the HT leads through. I centered the hole about where the "A" is.

And this is where the wheels have fallen off. I drilled a hole that's just shy of 7/16" in diameter and I cut a small channel to get the wires in the middle of the base. It took some time with various abrasive bits to remove some of the rib, drill the hole, and then clean things up. I then put the metal collar and lamp together (only one way they fit together, of course) and started to slide the metal collar on to the plastic base.



The lamp base itself is something like 1/8 to 3/16" too long to let the locking tabs on the base grab the collar. If I open up the hole in the center of the plastic base enough to let the collar grab the tabs, there's nothing to hold the lamp in place. I might be able to do some grinding on the base of the lamp, but one slip and the HT leads' insulation could be compromised. Bye-bye lamp.

How did anyone else deal with this problem???

I made the hole center larger and larger until it accommodated both wires. It worked, but not ideal.

If I were to do it again, I would have drilled a second hole and formed a second channel to the second hole.

The critical part being the orientation of the entire socket set and bulb prior to drilling the second hole so that it lines up perfectly with the wire closest to the bulb perimeter.
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Old 08-12-2010, 03:49 PM
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Cool Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
My HIDs have been in 3 years and haven't shifted.

I can't tell if my parts are the same as yours and please don't ask me for details I've forgotten now. Here are some photos from my archive.

In the 4th picture from the left. I placed the bulb 30 degrees clockwise so that the circular indent accommodated the round tongue.
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:15 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Many thanks, Voxmagna, for the pictures. I follow your idea about the stainless steel wire. However, I'm a little puzzled as to how the wires, when cut down to size, are kept in place. Anyway, I see how that serves to keep the lamp assembly from sliding out of the reflector.

The parts, in general, are very close to the parts in my '03.

IGWright, drilling a hole for HT lead (and cutting a second slot in the base) probably wouldn't help much. The present single large hole and slot appears to be functional.

My choices seem to be down to enlarging the hole in the middle of the base, to allow the collar and base to click together as before. The problem with that is the lamp isn't locked into place - although Voxmagna's steel wire setup would take hold the lamp in place. If I had some stainless wire like that, I might give it a try.

Plan B is to enlarge the holes on the side of the collar. This lets the collar click into place and the lamp is locked down by the top of the collar and the bottom of the base. What's not to like? The problem here is the plastic base is held in place by a clip (the rest of the grounding strap) on the back of the reflector. With plan B, the end of the plastic base that gets the clip will stick out too far and the clip won't grab the base. Decisions, decisions...
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:20 PM
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Talking It's alive! Alive!

Red Flash now has all HID's all the time.

Many thanks to Voxmagna, IGWright, Bruce C, and others for their help.

An "after action report" follows.
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:54 PM
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The Last Steps

I went with "plan B - enlarge the holes for the snap tabs". A Dremel tool and a high speed metal grinder bit, along with a bit of care and patience, are all that are needed to enlarge the holes for the tabs. The holes are extended back towards where the plastic base attaches to the collar. The H3 lamp I have has two sets of mounting notches (each set is one rectangular notch in the lamp's base, and one semi-circular notch opposite the rectangular notch). A little experimentation will show which set of notches should be used to get the lamp and its support through the hole in the reflector.

With the holes extended by about 1/8", the entire lamp, collar, and plastic base assembly is now about 1/8" too high relative to the back of the reflector. The grounding clip, which also holds the lamp in place, is too short to clip into place. I fixed that by grinding of 1/8" of the plastic tab that the spring/clip is trying to latch onto. The spring/clip, with a little encouragement, will fit onto the lamp assembly.

All of the above will make more sense when actually doing the work.

The next part of the job is the ground lead for the lamp. The low beam lamp clips onto a tab that's part of the spring holding the high beam lamp in place (that spring is also a ground for the original halogen H3 lamp). The DDM Tuning HID wiring harness uses two 0.25" quick disconnect connectors to connect to the bike's electrical system. The hot wire goes where the original H3's hot lead went, of course.

I used a crimp-on butt splice to connect a short wire with a female connector for the ground lead from the HID wiring harness. That is, on one end of the butt splice is the brown wire going to the grounding spring/clip. On the other end is the rest of the original ground wire, cut to allow the butt splice, and the short wire with the female quick disconnect connector. Easy-peasy. Be sure to crimp the leads properly and do not use a "vampire clip" (two wires in, one out) as they tend to make poor connections. The ground wire, when the HID lamp's arc is first struck, could be sinking as much as 7A. Not a place for a poor, loose connection!

With the wiring complete, the next step is to drill a 7/8" hole in the removable part of the headlight assembly. I drilled a pilot hole centered in the area over the high beam socket, and then drilled the 7/8" hole with a standard hole saw bit. A bit of sanding and scraping were all that was needed to clean up the hole. Next, I removed the 12V connector (see the description of this in the low beam section of this thread), threaded the 12V wiring through the hole, re-installed the connector (checking that each lead went in the proper hole - polarity counts), and pulled the dust seal through the 7/8" hole.

From there, all that was left was to mount the 12V/85V ballast and 85V/23KV "brick", tidy up the wires, and try the smoke test. I'm happy to report there was no smoke when the high beam switch was pressed.

As of this writing, all the remains is to put the tupperware back on and go for a test ride. Unfortunately, at the moment it's raining - not good weather for a test ride.
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:24 PM
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Installing H3 high beam lamp - Epilogue

While installing the H7 low beam HID lamp presents some challenges (e.g., drilling the hole for the dust cover), it's a relatively easy job. Installing the H3 high beam lamp is not that easy. Should there be a problem with the H7 lamp, it's easy enough to back out the HID lamp, mount a new H7 halogen lamp, and call it a day. Backing out from the the H3 is difficult at best, unless a spare plastic base and metal collar are available. I'll probably try to locate a spare base and collar "just in case".

As was discussed above and elsewhere, the high beam doesn't come on at full brightness. There's a period of about 5-10 seconds between the time the high beam switch is used and the time that the lamp is up to full brightness. Flashing your high beam for any reason is effectively out with the DDM Tuning HID lamp. If the high beam has been on and then flashing is attempted, it should work. But that's about the only time I can think of when flashing might work.

Fortunately, the low beam on the K1200RS remains on even when the high beam is on. For any bike where this is not true, these HID lamps are a problem. Switching from low beam to high beam, there will be a period with little or no light, and the same is true going from high beam to low beam. Again, the delay comes from waiting for the HID lamp to come up to operating temperature. Bottom line: if your lighting system only lights one lamp at a time, this is not the HID system for you.

Replacing the lamps... At some point a lamp is going to stop working, Changing the low beam lamp is relatively simple, but will involve pulling tupperware and pulling the headlight assembly. This is not a job to be done at "oh-dark-thirty" on the side of the road. Should the high beam lamp fail, swapping the lamp (because of the issues with the plastic base, collar, and lamp indexing notches) is at least not a roadside job. Remember the 12V connector has to be disassembled, as well as the lamp, metal collar, and plastic base. I've seen people do head jobs on air heads in a parking lot - that might be only slightly harder than swapping the HID H3. Think about carrying spares that allow reverting to a halogen H3 until the HID work can be done easily.

Three miscellaneous thoughts: first, based on comments from others about this job, it appears that DDM Tuning is sending out lamps that may or may not be physically identical to each other. The lamp I installed seems to be something like 1/8-3/16" longer than other DDM Tuning HID H3's - this is enough to make the installation a project and not just a "plug and play" effort.

Second, be careful with the metal collar when test fitting the lamp. At one point the collar got loose and dropped into the headlight assembly. The good news is there are ways to fish it out (hint: remove the H7 low beam lamp), but this is not a fun job.

Third, never, ever touch the HID bulb itself! Any grease (sorry, but we all have a greasy touch) left on the lamp will absorb heat from the lamp, the envelop will swell, and eventually fail. This is true of halogen bulbs, too. If you do touch the lamp, wash it down with 99% pure denatured alcohol. Don't use rubbing alcohol (it's loaded with scented oils and other bad stuff that will remain on the bulb - Not Good) or any other solvent (it wouldn't be nice to see the lamp's base begin to dissolve, or see deposits on the bulb).

- - - -

Would I do it again? Would I tell others to do the job?

Until I road-test the installation, I won't know for sure if I'd do the job again. Based on the improvement from the H7 low beam, however, I expect the results to be worth it.

This is not a job for those challenged to operate a Torx driver. Get it wrong and the results could mean buying a new headlight assembly. The last I heard, that'd be a $500 oopsie. The low beam conversion is the easier of the two projects, but it's still not for everyone.
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:47 PM
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Why me?

I did a test ride of sorts. I turned the bike around in the garage and hit the brights. I wonder if my neighbor thinks they were just lit up by a police helicopter spotlight.

But I also found a problem with the H3. There is a high tension lead that runs from the lamp's base to the top of the bulb - it's part of the upper electrode. Looking at the bulb from the lens side of the headlight, I found the HT lead next to the bulb is right up against the reflector!

So now I have to pull everything apart, pull the lamp, collar, and base, and grind a small relief in the reflector.

Why me?!?
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Old 08-13-2010, 01:08 AM
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Cool Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Sorry to hear.
I found the job taxing.
When I was done I went for a test ride, but I was so bagged that I really couldn't tell if the lights were doing anything or not (also, I'm in a bright urban setting).

Once I got a good night's sleep,
I appreciated them much more.

The biggest difference is that people don't turn left in front of me. At first I couldn't figure out why, and then I realized . . . oh, they can SEE me!!!
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Old 08-13-2010, 02:14 PM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Hmmm... I could have sworn I posted the following images, but I can't find them here. So here's "take 2". [/headscratch]

Here's a look at the hole and the channel, for the HT wiring, in the plastic base.



This is a look at the lamp and lead going along the side of the lamp. The tab closest to the wire looked, when looking through the headlight lens, as though it was part of the headlight reflector. It wasn't. I filed a small notch in the edge of the reflector, near where this tab is, and found it was the tab getting close to the insulator. The tab and insulator don't touch and can't rub together, so I've opted to leave everything alone. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."



One of the two oval holes for the tabs, that hold the collar and base together, is visible along with the slot to pass the HT wires through the base. Once the the lamp, collar, and base are in place and the ground clip is snapped over the base, the assembly looks solid and stable.

So the bike's buttoned up, the lights light, and all that's left is a road test tonight, weather permitting.
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:56 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Just noticed the DDM website only wants $20 for these now. WOW. I just paid that for a silverstar a couple weeks ago. D'oh!!!!!
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Old 08-14-2010, 01:29 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Makes ya wonder what's going on, doesn't it? Lamp, 85V "black box", 23 KV "black box" - all for the going price of a good halogen lamp? Makes ya wonder... [/headscratch]
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Old 08-14-2010, 01:31 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by RBEmerson
So the bike's buttoned up, the lights light, and all that's left is a road test tonight, weather permitting.

That's EXACTLY how mine looked when I was done.
The other thing I wanted to add is that my High Beams light up immediately when I hit the button - no delay.
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Old 08-14-2010, 01:41 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Hmmm... betcha that if we swapped ballast kits (the black boxes) I'd have instant-on lights and you'd be waiting for something to happen. I suspect DDM Tuning has gone with a "slower" black box set to save some money. Just a guess, ya understand.
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Old 08-14-2010, 01:52 AM
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Cool Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Well yeah, with the prices going down.
It does make you wonder.

I had a really weirdo experience with them where a nice lady on the phone could trace my order, so I walked her through the process for doing a PayPal search which incensed her so much that she hung up the phone.

Called back and got some dude and explained that the nice lady hung up on me. He found my order and stated that it came up as a Master Card and that's why she couldn't find it.

No biggie, but the implication from the site is that they can't keep up with the business.
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Old 08-14-2010, 08:55 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

I've heard that said more than once (DDM can't keep up with the business). Dropping prices...? Hmmm... I wonder how the yuan's doing against the dollar. And that sudden and dramatic rise in the US import number...? Could it be that DDM Tuning, with its amazingly low prices for HID's, is singlehandedly responsible for knocking the US economy on its butt? Enquiring minds want to know...



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Old 08-14-2010, 09:37 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

At first glance, you would think DDM is hurting other Chinese manufacturers.
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:44 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce C
At first glance, you would think DDM is hurting other Chinese manufacturers.

"Other Chinese manufacturers"? That's a null concept. It's all "China Inc.".






Just kidding. I hope.
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:45 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by RBEmerson
Hmmm... betcha that if we swapped ballast kits (the black boxes) I'd have instant-on lights and you'd be waiting for something to happen. I suspect DDM Tuning has gone with a "slower" black box set to save some money. Just a guess, ya understand.

That could be true.
My DDM hi-beam takes much longer to reach full brilliance(on cold start) than my lo-beam CQ Light HID's. But a hot re-strike(up to 30sec.) on the DDM is almost instantaneous.

To find out about DDM, you have to research Apexcone. They are the parent company, importer and who knows what else....
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:54 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by RBEmerson
"Other Chinese manufacturers"? That's a null concept. It's all "China Inc.".
Just kidding. I hope.

Afraid it's true!!
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:31 AM
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Re: HID light installation, '02 K1200RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce C
That could be true.
My DDM hi-beam takes much longer to reach full brilliance(on cold start) than my lo-beam CQ Light HID's. But a hot re-strike(up to 30sec.) on the DDM is almost instantaneous.

To find out about DDM, you have to research Apexcone. They are the parent company, importer and who knows what else....

Agreed on the experience of quickly going back to the high beam if it's been on for a while. Since the lamp comes up to near full brightness when first switched on, and then fades and re-brightens, I doubt this is a temperature issue. This has the feel of a cap somewhere needing to re-charge and not getting enough power to do it quickly. If I had a spare ballast unit, I might pull it apart... Hmmm.... is $20 worth it?

You're right, Apexcone is the parent company. Time to do some Google work...
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