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"KRS/GT" Technical Q&A K1200RS/GT Technical Questions/Answers

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  #1  
Old 01-16-2018, 04:54 PM
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Frustrated w/Valve Data!

Alright gentlemen,
I bought the GT and did the valve adjustment (60kmi) in Jan 2015.
Fwd 20k miles/3yrs and it seems I have another 6 buckets to buy?
Bought 7 thr first time around and replaced all the 290s!
Now I'm looking at buying another 6 buckets? BS..!
Along w/fuel sys & Wilber rebuild, plus whatever else I'm simply frustrated with the results and thought I might need MAYBE 1 or 2 buckets, Maybe!

What would you do? (other than I 4B for sure)
I-1A=.008/2.75
I-1B=.006/2.85
I-2A=.007/2.80
I-2B=.006/2.85
I-3A=.006/2.85
I-3B=.006/2.85
I-4A=.006/2.85
I-4B=.005/2.85

E-1A=.011/2.70
E-1B=.011/2.75
E-2A=.010/2.80
E-2B=.011/2.75
E-3A=.010/2.75
E-3B=.010/2.80
E-4A=.011/2.75
E-4B=.011/2.75

I mean there's a bunch of tens & sixes in there...

Thanks yall.
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  #2  
Old 01-16-2018, 05:33 PM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

What size shims do you need? I've a few leftover from my last valve adjustment, maybe one or more could work for you. I'm not sure what the sizes are (memory lapse) but I can look and check them with a mic and let you know. I'm happy to send them on if it will help and perhaps you can reciprocate down the road.
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2018, 05:36 PM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

I hate to think what my valves look like. I can't remember when I last had them checked. I'm not competent enough to do it myself. I believe it's been more than 65,000 miles. Starts OK and seems to run well. I know I know

Your situation seems a bit excessive.
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  #4  
Old 01-16-2018, 07:36 PM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

Quote:
Originally Posted by twinsig
Alright gentlemen,
I bought the GT and did the valve adjustment (60kmi) in Jan 2015.
Fwd 20k miles/3yrs and it seems I have another 6 buckets to buy?
Bought 7 thr first time around and replaced all the 290s!
Now I'm looking at buying another 6 buckets? BS..!
Along w/fuel sys & Wilber rebuild, plus whatever else I'm simply frustrated with the results and thought I might need MAYBE 1 or 2 buckets, Maybe!

What would you do? (other than I 4B for sure)
I-1A=.008/2.75
I-1B=.006/2.85
I-2A=.007/2.80
I-2B=.006/2.85
I-3A=.006/2.85
I-3B=.006/2.85
I-4A=.006/2.85
I-4B=.005/2.85

E-1A=.011/2.70
E-1B=.011/2.75
E-2A=.010/2.80
E-2B=.011/2.75
E-3A=.010/2.75
E-3B=.010/2.80
E-4A=.011/2.75
E-4B=.011/2.75

I mean there's a bunch of tens & sixes in there...

Thanks yall.
Your within specs except 1-4B (tight) remember a little lose is ok.
Intake .006 - .008
Exhaust .010 - .012
Edit: maybe I read your post wrong, are your numbers your measurements of the actual clearances and the bucket size you now have installed?
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  #5  
Old 01-16-2018, 07:39 PM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

I'd do nothing but replace 4B.And buy metric feeler gauges.
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  #6  
Old 01-16-2018, 07:44 PM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

Yes , sounds excessive I know. I also checked one of the LT guys, answer below...in fact I-1A loosened by .001 since my initial adjustment.

The $550+ for the wilbers rebuild + the $300 for Max parts was the main issue, especially right after the holidays.

From Mr J,
"I would only worry about I-4B as it is the ONLY one out of spec. I have several that were .006 and .010 for over 50K. Also I did one LT that had five intakes that were at 0.001 !!!! with no damage. Some people always try to keep them at the loose end or in the center. I always change them if they are OUT of Spec Only."

I'm going to relocate these :
Install my spare 2.70 @ E-3A (.010 changes to .012)
MOVE E-3A to E-2A (.010 changes to.012)
MOVE E- 2A to I-4B (.005 changes to.007)
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  #7  
Old 01-16-2018, 07:59 PM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAK04GT

Edit: maybe I read your post wrong, are your numbers your measurements of the actual clearances and the bucket size you now have installed?

correct!
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  #8  
Old 01-16-2018, 09:21 PM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

I'd leave them until next time and relax.
Here is a feeler gauge set that took me 20 years to find:
http://www.bmwmotorcycleaccessories....R-21072110.htm
Leaves in .02mm, nothing like it made in the states.
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2018, 08:00 AM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beech
I'd leave them until next time and relax.
Here is a feeler gauge set that took me 20 years to find:
http://www.bmwmotorcycleaccessories....R-21072110.htm
Leaves in .02mm, nothing like it made in the states.

Thanks beech, those will make things simpler! Well worth $13..
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  #10  
Old 01-17-2018, 11:17 AM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

No 0.15 or 0.25 on the Hornig feeler gauge?

KD tools #2274.

https://www.toolsource.com/feeler-bl...ompba5nf3qjpb6

Just about any Autoparts sells KD tools.
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Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD200 at 16
Yamaha RD350 at 17
Honda CB750F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
85 BMW K100RS at 28 (Very nice and sorely missed)
90 BMW R100GS at 34 (Too slow, too cranky)
2003 K1200 RS at 53 (Oh Yeah......over 6000RPM)
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  #11  
Old 01-30-2018, 04:59 PM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

So, you're bored huh? Reading this old thread again?
well. Since you're here.

It Doesn't really feel like my imagination, but damn this bike runs great after that tune! I mean sweet too!

valve adj
spark plugs
injector cleaning by RCEng
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  #12  
Old 02-01-2018, 10:18 AM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

Post your fuel injectors test report? I'd be interested in the before/after specs.

When I get bored I'll have to get back to my DIY injectors cleaning/testing rig.I need one more piece of equipment....may have to sell a few old BMW parts to buy that one.And get bored first.
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Yamaha RD350 at 17
Honda CB750F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
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2003 K1200 RS at 53 (Oh Yeah......over 6000RPM)
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  #13  
Old 02-01-2018, 12:50 PM
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Re: Frustrated w/Valve Data!

I sent a set of EBay injectors to Mr. Injector for overhaul. He did not return any paperwork indicating status. I should have asked. He quotes a standard in his website. They came back with new orings which represents several dollars not paid to BMW for OEM rings. They are in the bike my bikes old ones on the shelf. They might go in for overhaul, have not decided. But the bike runs great. All fuel functions are positive. Starts up so quick I can't believe it. It is a bit of a handful to change them out. I think it is as hard as a valve check (the first time anyway). I had to go in a second time because I did not lube the fuel rail oring (top one on the injector) enough and it got pinched, leaking fuel. So Be sure to grease them evenly.
Also you have to un do the pull throttle cable. Slack both off completely at the grip. Remove grip cover to the cable ends on grip. Now go down to fuel rail and remove the 4 screws that hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold. the two on the right hold the throttle cable bracket. When this bracket is loose you can wiggle it and put it under the plastic fuel rail foot and take out the pull throttle cable sheath from the bracket to give more slack. Now you can take your finger and roll open the throttle pulley and carefully with out boogering the cable, take the end out of the pulley. You can now remove the fuel rail after you cut the 4 cable ties on it. All very tight in there but the rail can come out with the injectors. You can pull the securing clips and leave the injectors in place if your careful but no reason if you changing them out. The only reason I can think of for leaving them in is if you are plugging in some sort of additional fuel management device. No go in reverse to put it together. Be very careful working with the throttle cable, go slow and think of what you are doing. Return the lower pull throttle cable end into the pulley first while there is maximum slack. This is delicate, pesky and important so you do not bend or otherwise Fxxx UP the cable. You will also need a pair of proper pliers to work the Click it hose clamps. They are reusable and intended so.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using these pliers will release or install the clamps but you also need a right angle Oring pick to get in behind the top layer of the clamp to lift it off the latch while you hold "opening" tension on the clamp with the pliers.
A little red rubber grease on the intake boots from the air box going back together is a good thing. Lots of other little steps will present themselves while removing the air box to get to the fuel rail.
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