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  #1  
Old 11-20-2015, 06:50 PM
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More details on iABS2 repair

Recently, my 08 K1200GT suffered the all-too-common failure of the ATE ABS system. This is the same non-servo ABS used in all late-model boxer and slant-4 BMWs. The problem is that the ABS pump motor brushes get stuck and no longer make contact with the commutator, necessitating a tricky disassembly of the motor in order to free up the brushes,

The alternative to repairing the motor, is to spend $3000 on a new system.

There have been numerous "how to" posts on this forum and others, on how to disassemble the motor, most of which (if followed) generally result in breakage of the internal plastic latches that are meant to retain the motor's end plate.

Please refer to the attached 4 photos. It is IMPERATIVE that the 2 holes drilled to release the internal latches, must be NO LARGER than 1/8" (3mm) diameter, and must be very close to (0.100" or 2.5mm) the edge of the rectangular punched-out area of the motor casing.

Some posts made previously recommend drilling a 5mm diameter hole. This is wrong, because it will result in the tip of this larger drill, needing to penetrate too far into the plastic latch below.

Some posts also have recommended drilling this hole 8mm away from the edge of the edge of the rectangular punched area. This, too is wrong, because it will cause excess stress on the latch later, when the latch is attempted to be flexed to release it. The result is that force will be applied at the extreme rear of the latch, and near-certain latch breakage as a result of attempting to force a part of the latch to bend, that isn't meant to bend!!.

If a 1/8" hole is drilled in the position shown in the attached photos, it is nearly impossible to break the plastic latches, later when pressing them inward to release the end plate from the motor.

I have also come up with a better way to reattach the motor to the ABS unit that allows easy disassembly at a later date and avoids the potential damage that could be caused by attempting to crudely peen the aluminum back over the motor flange again. Once I reassemble the entire ABS/motor, I'll post photos.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20151116_173503.jpg (89.7 KB, 177 views)
File Type: jpg 20151116_173715.jpg (78.2 KB, 156 views)
File Type: jpg 20151116_173850.jpg (107.0 KB, 160 views)
File Type: jpg 20151118_100100.jpg (90.5 KB, 175 views)
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Bob.

No more "Vancouver.... the Blond Bimbo of Cities" for me
.... moved to Kelowna BC in the beautiful wine country of the Okanagan Valley.

- '08 K1200GT, metallic charcoal/silver
- '86 K100RT, Diamantgrau Metallic (great old girl!).
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  #2  
Old 11-29-2015, 07:58 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

MORE info and photos of my i-ABS2 repair

The attached photos show how I custom-made a pair of aluminum bars to re-attach the motor to the ABS body.

This will allow me to easily take everything apart in future if necessary.

By the way, with respect to the brushes that get stuck, I found that it was caused by one of the springs behind the brush that got hung up on the end of the brush holder. It was not the brush itself jamming.

In general, I found that if the steps in the previous post are followed, the motor comes apart really easily, with no chance of breaking the plastic tabs.

Note that when the motor is reassembled, the bushing at the back of the motor must be realigned. To do this, hold the motor in one hand and using a light hammer blow, lightly smack it on the side at the back end. This will cause the spherically-shaped bushing to twist in its mount and align itself with the end of the shaft. This is an old trick when working with small motors!
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File Type: jpg 20151125_142211.jpg (100.8 KB, 149 views)
File Type: jpg 20151125_142608.jpg (90.0 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg 20151125_143338.jpg (87.8 KB, 147 views)
File Type: jpg 20151125_143701.jpg (87.6 KB, 136 views)
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Bob.

No more "Vancouver.... the Blond Bimbo of Cities" for me
.... moved to Kelowna BC in the beautiful wine country of the Okanagan Valley.

- '08 K1200GT, metallic charcoal/silver
- '86 K100RT, Diamantgrau Metallic (great old girl!).
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2015, 09:33 AM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Nice job securing the motor to the ABS body.
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2015, 03:19 PM
LtSilverado LtSilverado is offline
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Wow ! Nice work, Bob. You should patent that repair.
Can you do something for the Ravens?
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2015, 04:48 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Thanks guys!

It turned out not too bad at all! The was no way that I was going to spend $3000 to fix a motor brush that was stuck!

By the way, to tap the #8 threaded holes in the ABS block, I had to improvise a bit. No one in town had a #8-32 Bottoming tap. So I carefully ground the tapered end off of a taper tap. I started the hole with a normal taper tap then switched over to my custom bottoming tap. It was a little tricky to get it started but once started, it worked great.
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Bob.

No more "Vancouver.... the Blond Bimbo of Cities" for me
.... moved to Kelowna BC in the beautiful wine country of the Okanagan Valley.

- '08 K1200GT, metallic charcoal/silver
- '86 K100RT, Diamantgrau Metallic (great old girl!).
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2015, 07:19 PM
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George_in_KG George_in_KG is offline
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

nice design and fabrication! Looks like you could go with an even smaller hole for the plastic latch release.
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'14 R1200GSW
'10 Triumph Daytona 675 (track bike)
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2015, 11:24 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by George_in_KG
nice design and fabrication! Looks like you could go with an even smaller hole for the plastic latch release.

Yes you could. But I used a coathanger bent into a "U" shape with each end bent 90 degrees inward, as a release device. Nothing but the highest tech for me!!!

Since the coathanger wire was about 3/32" diameter, 1/8" latch release holes seemed like a good choice. I later covered the holes with a strip of electrical tape wound around the motor.

The reason for the "U" shape of the wire was to allow both latches to be pressed and released at the same time.
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Bob.

No more "Vancouver.... the Blond Bimbo of Cities" for me
.... moved to Kelowna BC in the beautiful wine country of the Okanagan Valley.

- '08 K1200GT, metallic charcoal/silver
- '86 K100RT, Diamantgrau Metallic (great old girl!).
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  #8  
Old 12-01-2015, 08:55 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Really nice repair job! My hat's off to you!
Jim
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2015, 09:56 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpel
Really nice repair job! My hat's off to you!
Jim

Thanks for the nice words, Jim!!
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No more "Vancouver.... the Blond Bimbo of Cities" for me
.... moved to Kelowna BC in the beautiful wine country of the Okanagan Valley.

- '08 K1200GT, metallic charcoal/silver
- '86 K100RT, Diamantgrau Metallic (great old girl!).
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  #10  
Old 12-02-2015, 08:46 AM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

I reattached mine in a similar way. It came in handy when I had to remove it again 4 or 5 times to free the brushes, about every 2 months. I have since replaced the motor with one from a Ford unit. I haven't had any problems for about 8 months.
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  #11  
Old 12-02-2015, 04:33 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by mohler
I reattached mine in a similar way. It came in handy when I had to remove it again 4 or 5 times to free the brushes, about every 2 months. I have since replaced the motor with one from a Ford unit. I haven't had any problems for about 8 months.

Nice work! The real answer to this problem (which I haven't done yet) is to pull off the ball bearing (which will ruin the bearing, so one would need to buy a new one... about $10). This will allow the armature to be removed, which would allow proper access to the brushes, so they could be properly freed up. Maybe next time!
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Bob.

No more "Vancouver.... the Blond Bimbo of Cities" for me
.... moved to Kelowna BC in the beautiful wine country of the Okanagan Valley.

- '08 K1200GT, metallic charcoal/silver
- '86 K100RT, Diamantgrau Metallic (great old girl!).
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2015, 05:31 PM
paulmogs paulmogs is offline
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by RFW
Nice work! The real answer to this problem (which I haven't done yet) is to pull off the ball bearing (which will ruin the bearing, so one would need to buy a new one... about $10).

This is what I had to do on my 2nd attempt; The genuine bearing runs a rubber seal on one side, and labyrinth seal (steel) against the armature. I replaced with a double rubber sealed bearing.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2015, 07:36 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmogs
This is what I had to do on my 2nd attempt; The genuine bearing runs a rubber seal on one side, and labyrinth seal (steel) against the armature. I replaced with a double rubber sealed bearing.

Question..... How did you remove the bearing? There are a couple of small gaps in the plastic area on either side of the bearing, where one could get under the outer race to pull the bearing off, but these gaps are so narrow that I doubt that any puller that would fit, would be strong enough.

Others have suggested to MIG or TIG weld some kind of lug to the bearing, and pull on that.
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Bob.

No more "Vancouver.... the Blond Bimbo of Cities" for me
.... moved to Kelowna BC in the beautiful wine country of the Okanagan Valley.

- '08 K1200GT, metallic charcoal/silver
- '86 K100RT, Diamantgrau Metallic (great old girl!).
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  #14  
Old 12-03-2015, 04:12 AM
paulmogs paulmogs is offline
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

I used 35mm of 1 inch tube, split it and peened a little, more for ease of putting a weld to the two pieces. Pull the rubber seal, as it will burn, and with the aid of a TIG, you would not need to put as large a weld, as in my example,..small stitch on the other side.

I also draped some wet cloth over the plastic brush holder, to reduce the possibility of frying plastic. Bearing is a 6000Z, but 2RS6000 does the job; original labyrinth seal on my bearing, had Thailand branded on it,….who would have thunk?



Used 4 & 5mm tapping, for my re-securing motor to body. Cut bent & drilled some stainless plate.
And no,…the dents in the ABS body were not by me.

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  #15  
Old 12-03-2015, 05:30 AM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by mohler
I reattached mine in a similar way. It came in handy when I had to remove it again 4 or 5 times to free the brushes, about every 2 months. I have since replaced the motor with one from a Ford unit. I haven't had any problems for about 8 months.


Which Ford motor did you use?
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  #16  
Old 12-03-2015, 08:12 AM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

I bought a module from a 2013 Ford Fiesta on ebay for $45.
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  #17  
Old 12-03-2015, 12:42 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmogs
I used 35mm of 1 inch tube, split it and peened a little, more for ease of putting a weld to the two pieces. Pull the rubber seal, as it will burn, and with the aid of a TIG, you would not need to put as large a weld, as in my example,..small stitch on the other side.

Thanks for that! I figured that it would have to be welded, even though I hoped (with my fingers crossed!) that you had a clever way to avoid welding!
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Bob.

No more "Vancouver.... the Blond Bimbo of Cities" for me
.... moved to Kelowna BC in the beautiful wine country of the Okanagan Valley.

- '08 K1200GT, metallic charcoal/silver
- '86 K100RT, Diamantgrau Metallic (great old girl!).
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Old 03-12-2016, 12:29 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

I read all that but I'm sending the whole thing to Module Masters just to be safe, I'll start that thread again just for clarity.
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Old 05-20-2018, 09:30 PM
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Re: More details on iABS2 repair

Since I'm stuck with my clutch R&R (have to get the hubs resurfaced). I thought I'd tackle the ABS motor repair while the bike is up on the lift.



Been without ABS for about 8 months. Followed your instructions. I think when the "U" wire is made maybe only have 1.8-3/16 turned in. I broke one tab and I think it was because the 90 degree part was too long.


Just tried to spread the brush holders a bit,sprayed a generous amount of electronic cleaner and the motor is working (on the bench). Got to fabricate the hold downs now.


Excellent instructions and input from all. Cheers, Chris
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