I-BMW.com I-BMW.com

Welcome to the I-BMW.com forums! - You're currently viewing as a limited access guest. By joining our free member supported community, you'll gain access to post/ reply, communicate privately with other members (PM), or globally via "real time chat", respond to polls, upload photos, post classifieds etc. Membership is fast so, Register @ the Ultimate Sport Touring Portal!
Should you not receive an email with activation link, check your SPAM settings or please contact us and include the ID/ email address you registered with.

Go Back   I-BMW.com > BMW K-1300 Series Motorcycles > K1300S > "K13S/R" Technical Q&A
User Name
Password
Home Register Gallery Classifieds FAQ Members List Calendar Donate Mark Forums Read

"K13S/R" Technical Q&A K1200S/R Technical Questions/Answers

Vendor Sign Up | Want to see your name in neon blue? | Want a neat reflective sticker for your ride?!

Reply
 
Thread Tools.. Display Modes
  #301  
Old 05-05-2017, 07:51 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Thanks paul

I messaged them as on the end they have 12 16 (Tamburo Frizione Full Drum Clutch Bmw K 1300 S 12 16)

So not sure if that is indication it is for a 2012-2016 or not but will see.

Appreciate the assistance ta
Reply With Quote
  #302  
Old 05-05-2017, 08:00 AM
paulmogs paulmogs is offline
Site Contributor
Post: 2,243 Thanks: 1,535
Thanked 2,232 Times in 1,077 Posts
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Clutch is the same thru 09-16, may have had some minor upgrades, nothing that would make it incompatible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alien-g
So not sure if that is indication it is for a 2012-2016 or not but will see.
Reply With Quote
  #303  
Old 05-05-2017, 08:08 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Thats awesome then ta

Just had a look on our Bike sales here and there is a shit load of the K1300s for sale maybe there is this issue across the board with them.

Just a little apprehensive with it now with those K's on it whats next
Reply With Quote
This I-BMW member either likes, thanks -or- is 'shouting out' to 'Alien-g' for this post:
  #304  
Old 05-06-2017, 08:45 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

So had a look at the clutch drive out of my bike and man it was worn.

So I bit the bullet and bought one of theses guys

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tamburo-F...gAAOSwjDZYi4RN

now 1 left

hope it's in better condition than mine, he originally had like 99 eur on it then after an offer of 65 he dropped it to 77 so got that guy.

see ow we go then
Reply With Quote
  #305  
Old 05-09-2017, 05:28 AM
Bengarzy Bengarzy is offline
Shooting the gap
Post: 216 Thanks: 8
Thanked 92 Times in 53 Posts
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Red Lodge, Bury St Edmunds, England
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by panason1c
I also stripped my basket again today, due to increased vibration since fitting springs, and shortened the springs to fit more easily, I suspected that the springs might not be all the same weight and causing an imbalance, so I weighed them and found them all to be different weights with a 5 gram variation.......I ground the springs so that they all weighed exactly the same.
The basket is now reassembled and it will be dynamically balanced tomorrow.

Can someone tell if the basket runs at half engine speed?, (or thereabouts?) as I think it would be helpful to the balance guy if he new what max speed the basket runs at.

Since I bought my 1300 S new in 2015 it has been plagued with primary gear vibration.
I balanced, made top hat pins to take the slack out the springs (I have since found out that they are DESIGNED like that) then found the vibration had moved a few hundred revs but also came back just as badly when really heat soaked after a lot of high speed miles.
A friend gave me a used gear and I modified this in all sorts of ways, even machining off all the scissor gear teeth and welding the two together then balancing the solid set up.........
Still the same.By the way I did all this as BMW would not do it under warranty..... that's how some of them are.
At this point I decided to get shot and as the bike was on a PPI I had to put it back to standard so I got a brand new primary gear, replaced the slipper clutch ( another attempt to stop the vibes) with the standard BMW hub and plates............... guess what........ NO VIBRATION!!!!
I have come to the conclusion that either the gear is slightly oval after heat treatment or the sleeve and needle roller clearance/end float must hold the key to the vibes as that's the only thing I didn't change and the new replacement came with all of that.
The bit that is really pissing me off is that BMW MUST know exactly what causes this horrible vibration and have left the end user to either put up with it, get rid of the bike or do what everyone here is trying to do........ fix it themselves.
By the way I have done 9k miles since fitting the replacement and it's still great.
My friends identical bike has never been a problem like many others but there are too many out there that are awful so I think BMW stink for not addressing the problem under warranty and making sure bikes are not sold like it. Ben
Reply With Quote
  #306  
Old 05-09-2017, 05:38 AM
Bengarzy Bengarzy is offline
Shooting the gap
Post: 216 Thanks: 8
Thanked 92 Times in 53 Posts
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Red Lodge, Bury St Edmunds, England
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by panason1c
Got the basket balanced today, it was 2.5 grams out of balance at 850 rpm....Prior to balancing, I adjusted the springs to weigh exactly the same as each other so I gues that helped things.... The guy said 2.5g was probably within manufacturers tolerance but he continued and balanced it to zero.
All back together and I am pleased with the result, there is still what I would call 'normal' vibration at high speeds, but not too intrusive compared to before......The most noticeable difference, attributable to the longer basket springs, is the 'tightness' of the driveline, no slack between throttle on and throttle off and improved gearchanging.
BTW, I have re-used the alloy clutch cover bolts twice now, I tighten them to 5nm and no leaks.
Work carried out.....
New basket centre bearing and inner bush
New Barnett clutch plate pack,
Damper springs replaced with longer, stronger springs,
Dynamic balance of basket
Oil pump chain adjusted (was too slack and rubbing against casing)

I think the new centre bearing you fitted is the key to the vibration!!!! I have tried numerous varitions to track down the vibes and after fitting a new gear AND centre bearings its now vibe free.
I did notice the new bearing and sleeve were closer tolerance than any of the others I have so could this be the answer we have all been looking for????
Reply With Quote
The following (2) I-BMW members 'like', thank -or- are 'shouting out' to 'Bengarzy' for this post:
  #307  
Old 05-09-2017, 10:04 AM
2wheels1<3love's Avatar
2wheels1<3love 2wheels1<3love is offline
Has gotten a ticket or two…
Post: 109 Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 9 Posts
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengarzy
I think the new centre bearing you fitted is the key to the vibration!!!! I have tried numerous varitions to track down the vibes and after fitting a new gear AND centre bearings its now vibe free.
I did notice the new bearing and sleeve were closer tolerance than any of the others I have so could this be the answer we have all been looking for????

so Bengarzy, what did you have to replace in total?
__________________
Current:
07' BMW k1200s Black/Blue/Silver
09' Husqvarna TE310 Red/Black
83' Honda V65 Magna Black "THE TANK"

Past But Never Forgotten:
14' Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS Blue
05' BMW K1200s Black/Yellow "Bumble"
11' Kawasaki Z1000 Black "The Z"
08' Kawasaki ZX10-R Metallic Black "Batmobike!"
08' Buell 1125r Black "Sadie" (poor sexy Sadie )
92' Suzuki VX800 Blue "Little Blue"
85' Harley Sporty Ironhead "Old Blue"
78' KZ650 - project bike that was never completed.
Reply With Quote
  #308  
Old 05-09-2017, 10:22 AM
Bengarzy Bengarzy is offline
Shooting the gap
Post: 216 Thanks: 8
Thanked 92 Times in 53 Posts
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Red Lodge, Bury St Edmunds, England
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheels1<3love
so Bengarzy, what did you have to replace in total?

New primary gear assembly (includes the new bearing, sleeve and thrust washer) if it still vibrates the same, return the assembly as faulty.
I would also recommend fitting a new Barnett clutch pack, also leave out the belville washer set as this causes poor release of clutch bad 1st gear engagement.
Mine was perfect (at last!) on this set up.
Reply With Quote
The following (2) I-BMW members 'like', thank -or- are 'shouting out' to 'Bengarzy' for this post:
  #309  
Old 05-09-2017, 10:35 AM
2wheels1<3love's Avatar
2wheels1<3love 2wheels1<3love is offline
Has gotten a ticket or two…
Post: 109 Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 9 Posts
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengarzy
New primary gear assembly (includes the new bearing, sleeve and thrust washer) if it still vibrates the same, return the assembly as faulty.
I would also recommend fitting a new Barnett clutch pack, also leave out the belville washer set as this causes poor release of clutch bad 1st gear engagement.
Mine was perfect (at last!) on this set up.

The belleville washer your speaking of is the anti-judder spring that goes with the first friction plate, correct?
__________________
Current:
07' BMW k1200s Black/Blue/Silver
09' Husqvarna TE310 Red/Black
83' Honda V65 Magna Black "THE TANK"

Past But Never Forgotten:
14' Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS Blue
05' BMW K1200s Black/Yellow "Bumble"
11' Kawasaki Z1000 Black "The Z"
08' Kawasaki ZX10-R Metallic Black "Batmobike!"
08' Buell 1125r Black "Sadie" (poor sexy Sadie )
92' Suzuki VX800 Blue "Little Blue"
85' Harley Sporty Ironhead "Old Blue"
78' KZ650 - project bike that was never completed.
Reply With Quote
  #310  
Old 05-09-2017, 11:34 AM
Bengarzy Bengarzy is offline
Shooting the gap
Post: 216 Thanks: 8
Thanked 92 Times in 53 Posts
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Red Lodge, Bury St Edmunds, England
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheels1<3love
The belleville washer your speaking of is the anti-judder spring that goes with the first friction plate, correct?

Correct, they work in some Jap engines ok but generally they cause clutch drag, particularly in the K engine.
I remove them from all clutches, always improves them.
Reply With Quote
  #311  
Old 05-10-2017, 09:43 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

So i ended up getting a clutch from Italy for $180 AUD landed here in Aus
I'll put this into the Beemeir then send mine to get rebuilt if I can find somone

Reply With Quote
  #312  
Old 05-11-2017, 07:01 AM
CDR114 CDR114 is offline
Entering the on-ramp
Post: 1 Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Centerburg, OH USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Hopefully someone can provide some advice. I am changing the clutch on the 2007 K1200GT I recently purchased. I removed the basket to determine the condition of the springs. I was not not getting any rattling but just excessive slippage/shuddering when engaging the clutch to start from stop and on downshifts. I purchased the Barrett clutch pack. The problem I am having is in reinstalling the basket. I have tried to use the drill bit suggestion, but I am confused to the term "pretension the alternator gear". I use the drill bit in the hole to align the gear with the outer gear on the basket, I then slide the basket on. Then I rotate the basket counter clockwise to align the two scissor gears on the basket. But at that point I am stuck as the basket will not go in any further. The gears on the basket seem to be aligned with the drive gear, but not perfectly. I have fiddled with different positions of the alternator gear with no success. Am I missing something???

I have ordered the BMW alignment tool. Still not sure what is meant with the term pretension alternator gear???
Reply With Quote
  #313  
Old 05-11-2017, 12:44 PM
Beech's Avatar
Beech Beech is offline
I-BMW Rider of the Year 2016
Post: 6,545 Thanks: 1,611
Thanked 1,533 Times in 1,173 Posts
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: mount vernon, WA usa
Re: K1300s clutch problems

That little tool has a right angle tip. It is inserted in a hole on the gear face, you twist it and align the two gears (teeth) on the basket so it will slip in and mesh with the alternator drive. Mess with it on the bench to see how it works.
Welcome to the site. If you do a search on clutch in the K 12 zone, advanced search, you will find many articles with photos that may help. This question you ask is a foggy detail not discussed much but of huge importance. A factory DVD will help some too. And don't forget the oil pump drive on the back of the basket has to line up also.
__________________
Beech Arriba, Abajo, Al Centro, Adentro
Mount Vernon Cannon Works
K1300S
S1000R
I need a Vespa
I change your tires, you buy them on the web, I do the work $40, trying to keep riders on the road.
Reply With Quote
  #314  
Old 05-11-2017, 01:08 PM
henkpenk's Avatar
henkpenk henkpenk is offline
Twisted Wrister
Post: 583 Thanks: 62
Thanked 218 Times in 127 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rijnsburg, Holland
Re: K1300s clutch problems

I had the clutch out a couple of years ago and if memory serves me right the back side of the basket has to align with the oil pump too.
Reply With Quote
This I-BMW member either likes, thanks -or- is 'shouting out' to 'henkpenk' for this post:
  #315  
Old 05-11-2017, 02:49 PM
jaredwilson jaredwilson is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 38 Thanks: 11
Thanked 29 Times in 18 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Deerfield, IL US
Re: K1300s clutch problems

The clutch basket is not always easy to get properly seated on the trans shaft. I bought the alignment tool from BMW and it didn't work as advertised. It would go in to the hole and as I turned the tool, it didn't align the gears enough. I ended up using the pointy-end of an old dart (the throwing kind) to re-align the alternator gear. The drill bit sounds like a better idea since it has less chance of the end breaking off. The gears don't take much force to align. Even with the gear aligned and the clutch basket tensioned (by turning counter-clockwise), it took a few tries to get it to the point at which it would slide on and make contact with the oil pump drive. At which point, advance the oil pump chain while trying repeatedly to seat the clutch basket. It will eventually line up and the clutch basket will be properly positioned.

Also, before you insert the clutch basket, make sure the oil pump chain is seated correctly on the bottom sprocket. Mine had come off the bottom sprocket during disassembly. Would have been a bad situation if I hadn't noticed.
__________________
Current bike: 2006 K1200S

Previous Bikes: 2003 R1100S, 2000 SV650
Reply With Quote
This I-BMW member either likes, thanks -or- is 'shouting out' to 'jaredwilson' for this post:
  #316  
Old 05-11-2017, 03:08 PM
Beech's Avatar
Beech Beech is offline
I-BMW Rider of the Year 2016
Post: 6,545 Thanks: 1,611
Thanked 1,533 Times in 1,173 Posts
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: mount vernon, WA usa
Re: K1300s clutch problems

These are the kind of details that are very helpful. Thank you.
__________________
Beech Arriba, Abajo, Al Centro, Adentro
Mount Vernon Cannon Works
K1300S
S1000R
I need a Vespa
I change your tires, you buy them on the web, I do the work $40, trying to keep riders on the road.
Reply With Quote
This I-BMW member either likes, thanks -or- is 'shouting out' to 'Beech' for this post:
  #317  
Old 05-11-2017, 05:49 PM
jaredwilson jaredwilson is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 38 Thanks: 11
Thanked 29 Times in 18 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Deerfield, IL US
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Also, when reinstalling the hub/plate assembly, make sure the thrust adapter (pin that goes in the trans shaft) is perfectly centered. You'll likely need to loosen the six bolts on the bearing carrier in order to get the whole thing centered on the shaft. The bearing and thrust adapter should be able to spin freely and you should be able to move them in and out easily once everything is tightened up. If not, the bike might shudder upon the initial bite of the clutch. I was told putting the bike in gear and rotating the back tire backward while the bearing carrier was loose also helps to get everything to centered properly.

I've done this on mine after installing a new clutch pack and it reduced the shudder at the initial bite point on launch. Good luck!
__________________
Current bike: 2006 K1200S

Previous Bikes: 2003 R1100S, 2000 SV650
Reply With Quote
  #318  
Old 05-12-2017, 12:21 AM
Beech's Avatar
Beech Beech is offline
I-BMW Rider of the Year 2016
Post: 6,545 Thanks: 1,611
Thanked 1,533 Times in 1,173 Posts
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: mount vernon, WA usa
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Thanks, was looking at a parts list to be sure what you were talking about and noticed a price increase. basket and plate pack are now $2400 for both, and some more money for other bearings etc. This is really nasty.
__________________
Beech Arriba, Abajo, Al Centro, Adentro
Mount Vernon Cannon Works
K1300S
S1000R
I need a Vespa
I change your tires, you buy them on the web, I do the work $40, trying to keep riders on the road.
Reply With Quote
  #319  
Old 05-14-2017, 07:44 PM
jaredwilson jaredwilson is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 38 Thanks: 11
Thanked 29 Times in 18 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Deerfield, IL US
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Right. $2400 is nuts considering the clutch is perhaps the worst-engineered component on the bike. It really lets the bike down. I've been searching for an aftermarket alternative to the stock clutch basket, but haven't found one yet. If anyone knows of any options, please let me know. Would love to eliminate the vibrations and shudder caused by the clutch/primary gear assembly!
__________________
Current bike: 2006 K1200S

Previous Bikes: 2003 R1100S, 2000 SV650
Reply With Quote
  #320  
Old 05-14-2017, 08:54 PM
cstumpf750 cstumpf750 is offline
Shooting the gap
Post: 271 Thanks: 3
Thanked 104 Times in 75 Posts
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Re: K1300s clutch problems

I did some research and found that all the billet baskets are out of production. I called every company that made one and only one gave a positive response. They wanted a minimum order of 20 units do a production run. Don't remember which one anymore. But if you want to try and run something down, look for k1200S/R billet clutch baskets. There is still a slipper clutch pack available that's a drop in replacement. Bengarzy has one that he was trying to sell.
Reply With Quote
  #321  
Old 05-25-2017, 04:27 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

So I got the 1300 back today it has been fully serviced and Barnett clutch plates, installed and packed into the drive unit i bought on Ebay from italy for $180, (which was like brand new really good deal better that $1300).

The Bike feels as tight as a Nun (excuse the pun!) cos they get none? mmmmm any who

Problem now it it is slipping more than it was before under load (rev's going up then it catches up). I called my "spanner monkey" up and he said no worries bring it it tomorrow, he is concerned that it could be the basket as well, freaking hope not there's another $1200 for a new one.

I have read re the oil making a difference he used Motorex 15-50 thoughts?

he has also asked me to bring in my original levers as i changed mine to SDR leavers and used the original push rod assembly for the mc, i read about this possibly making a difference, however the fact that it is slipping more now than before would think this not to be the issue.

any thoughts on the basket being the issues?


ta
Reply With Quote
  #322  
Old 05-25-2017, 04:55 AM
panason1c's Avatar
panason1c panason1c is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 66 Thanks: 50
Thanked 15 Times in 10 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Wellington, United Kingd
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alien-g
So I got the 1300 back today it has been fully serviced and Barnett clutch plates, installed and packed into the drive unit i bought on Ebay from italy for $180, (which was like brand new really good deal better that $1300).

The Bike feels as tight as a Nun (excuse the pun!) cos they get none? mmmmm any who

Problem now it it is slipping more than it was before under load (rev's going up then it catches up). I called my "spanner monkey" up and he said no worries bring it it tomorrow, he is concerned that it could be the basket as well, freaking hope not there's another $1200 for a new one.

I have read re the oil making a difference he used Motorex 15-50 thoughts?

he has also asked me to bring in my original levers as i changed mine to SDR leavers and used the original push rod assembly for the mc, i read about this possibly making a difference, however the fact that it is slipping more now than before would think this not to be the issue.

any thoughts on the basket being the issues?


ta

When you re-fitted the clutch release slave cylinder (the part that 4 bolts secure it to the engine cover) did you ensure that the FLAT face of the 'ball bearing was against the clutch push rod and NOT the round side of the ball bearing? (the ball rotates in its housing)

Fitting it with the round side against the push rod would result in pressure constantly being applied to it and could cause slippage of the clutch as you describe.


ps..... I doubt that the basket could cause the slippage
Reply With Quote
  #323  
Old 05-25-2017, 05:07 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

hay thanks "panason1c" for the reply to be honest i dont know as my "spanner money" did the work but i'll get him to check that tomorrow.

In that scenario thought wouldn't it slip all the time (nut just under load) with that pressure on it like you described?

Ta
Reply With Quote
  #324  
Old 05-25-2017, 05:17 AM
panason1c's Avatar
panason1c panason1c is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 66 Thanks: 50
Thanked 15 Times in 10 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Wellington, United Kingd
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alien-g
hay thanks "panason1c" for the reply to be honest i dont know as my "spanner money" did the work but i'll get him to check that tomorrow.

In that scenario thought wouldn't it slip all the time (nut just under load) with that pressure on it like you described?

Ta

No, the pressure would be slight and so it would only slip under heavy load..... the same effect as if you put slight pressure on the clutch lever whilst accelerating hard.

Its easy for you to check, just remove the four bolts and slide the slave cylinder off and look to see if the flat face of the bearing is facing the clutch..... if not, just rotate it with your finger and refit!
Reply With Quote
  #325  
Old 05-25-2017, 05:39 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

just a quick one if i'm to check this will i need to re bleed the clutch, I dont think i will but just in case
Reply With Quote
  #326  
Old 05-25-2017, 05:44 AM
panason1c's Avatar
panason1c panason1c is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 66 Thanks: 50
Thanked 15 Times in 10 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Wellington, United Kingd
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alien-g
just a quick one if i'm to check this will i need to re bleed the clutch, I dont think i will but just in case

No, no need to bleed.....dont disconnect the hose to the cylinder, just undo the 4 alloy bolts and slide the cylinder back to inspect the ball bearing...
5 or 10 minutes total job time....

Only nip the 4 bolts very lightly when refitting...5nm torque is plenty
Reply With Quote
  #327  
Old 05-25-2017, 06:40 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

sweet ta will give a shot
Reply With Quote
  #328  
Old 05-25-2017, 07:07 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

ok just pulled it off and it is the flat side, so not that little guy.
Reply With Quote
  #329  
Old 05-25-2017, 08:39 AM
XMagnaRider XMagnaRider is offline
Site Contributor
Post: 505 Thanks: 26
Thanked 76 Times in 58 Posts
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Anaheim, CA USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Regarding the oil, I looked at the Motorex website, and they specifically mention 4 cylinder bikes with wet clutches. Based on that alone, I doubt it is the oil.

There were threads a long time ago (perhaps here, perhaps on k-bikes.com) where people complained about certain synthetic oils having such fantastic lubrication properties that those oils were causing clutch slippage. The Mobil 1 brand oil came up a lot as one that caused the slippage. The discussions were wide ranging, but the consensus was that some motor oils may have certain lubrication enhancing additives that can cause clutch slippage on motorcycles with wet clutches. Those motor oils were designed for cars where wet clutches are not an issue.
Reply With Quote
  #330  
Old 05-25-2017, 08:47 AM
BeemerMikeTX's Avatar
BeemerMikeTX BeemerMikeTX is offline
Exceeding Highway speeds
Post: 1,208 Thanks: 716
Thanked 455 Times in 319 Posts
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: League City, TX USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alien-g
I have read re the oil making a difference he used Motorex 15-50 thoughts?
BMW specs 5W-40 and 10W-50 for the K1300S.
__________________
Mike

2013 BMW K1300S "30 Years"
1995 BMW R1100RS
1988 BMW K75S
1997 Ducati 916 Monoposto
1995 Ducati 900SS CR
Reply With Quote
  #331  
Old 05-25-2017, 08:49 AM
BeemerMikeTX's Avatar
BeemerMikeTX BeemerMikeTX is offline
Exceeding Highway speeds
Post: 1,208 Thanks: 716
Thanked 455 Times in 319 Posts
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: League City, TX USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by XMagnaRider
Regarding the oil, I looked at the Motorex website, and they specifically mention 4 cylinder bikes with wet clutches. Based on that alone, I doubt it is the oil.

There were threads a long time ago (perhaps here, perhaps on k-bikes.com) where people complained about certain synthetic oils having such fantastic lubrication properties that those oils were causing clutch slippage. The Mobil 1 brand oil came up a lot as one that caused the slippage. The discussions were wide ranging, but the consensus was that some motor oils may have certain lubrication enhancing additives that can cause clutch slippage on motorcycles with wet clutches. Those motor oils were designed for cars where wet clutches are not an issue.
I use Mobil 1 "car" oil in my bikes with dry clutches. Not in the K1300S (so far, BMW oil or Castrol Power 1).
__________________
Mike

2013 BMW K1300S "30 Years"
1995 BMW R1100RS
1988 BMW K75S
1997 Ducati 916 Monoposto
1995 Ducati 900SS CR
Reply With Quote
  #332  
Old 05-25-2017, 11:02 AM
DOA DOA is offline
Twisted Wrister
Post: 763 Thanks: 230
Thanked 169 Times in 135 Posts
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Alinor, FL USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Son and I have used Mobil 1 5-30 in K12 and K13 after each was broken in. Over 100K miles total with no problems, including trips to the drag strip. The K12 did have a little shudder at the drag strip, but many K12's had that regardless of oil.

This sounds more like your basket is missing a piece, there were a few clutch designs and unless you have EXACTLY the same parts the stack height will be wrong.
__________________
New K1300s on May 6 2015!
I would post a pic, but Priis looks like all the other Motorsport Editions out there.
Reply With Quote
  #333  
Old 05-26-2017, 03:35 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

the stack height should be the same as it is the barnetts BMW K1300s kit for it and my Monkey is the goods so mmmm.

I spoke to him this afternoon he recons it could of been the lever's it's self and the push rod adjustment as I did replace the OEM levers with SDR's for that bike.

He said he took it for a ride this afternoon did about 30 Klms on it and there was no slipping now.

I pick it up in the morning so we will see fingers X that was the issues being the cheapest option

Reply With Quote
  #334  
Old 05-26-2017, 12:20 PM
henkpenk's Avatar
henkpenk henkpenk is offline
Twisted Wrister
Post: 583 Thanks: 62
Thanked 218 Times in 127 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rijnsburg, Holland
Re: K1300s clutch problems

You're not the first one (and not the last) that got in trouble after changing the levers. (And perhaps adjusting the master piston pushrod that is better left alone.)
The compensation hole must be open when the lever is in its stationary position. This way when the oil in the clutch line heats up (it will because the routing of the clutch line is across the engine) it will expand so it has to be able to flow back in the master cilinder reservoir. If not, the clutch can start to slip under power.
Reply With Quote
This I-BMW member either likes, thanks -or- is 'shouting out' to 'henkpenk' for this post:
  #335  
Old 05-27-2017, 05:13 AM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems


So I picked up the Bike this morning took it for a good say 50 Klm ride and no slipping

It was the freaking lever all along OMG shit shit shit.

That being said the bike feels brand new, tight as.

just as well i didn't go for the new clutch drive OEM option. so lesson learnt lucky i got out of it reasonable cheap

replacement Clutch drive $160
New Barnet plates $225
1.5 Hr labour $150

not a bad result for a new clutch.

So tomorrow a nice quick ride 2-400Klm and we'll see how it goes.

Thanks guys for all your banter and suggestions appreciated.

Ta
Reply With Quote
This I-BMW member either likes, thanks -or- is 'shouting out' to 'Alien-g' for this post:
DOA
  #336  
Old 05-27-2017, 09:55 AM
Aviator's Avatar
Aviator Aviator is online now
Certified Hooligan
Post: 1,211 Thanks: 410
Thanked 242 Times in 150 Posts
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Chattanooga, TN USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Alien G, I see Barnett has a regular set and another with CF on their clutch plates. Which one did you go with. Is one better than the other?
__________________
2007 K1200S
2014 R1200 GSA/W
2015 Husqvarna FE501S
2011 DR650
Reply With Quote
  #337  
Old 05-27-2017, 06:03 PM
Alien-g's Avatar
Alien-g Alien-g is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 21 Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Canberra, AC Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

I'll have to get back to you on that one as my spanner monkey ordered and installed them I'll find out and let you know.
ta
Reply With Quote
This I-BMW member either likes, thanks -or- is 'shouting out' to 'Alien-g' for this post:
  #338  
Old 06-01-2017, 04:49 PM
ReAnimator ReAnimator is offline
Entering the on-ramp
Post: 2 Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Kiev, Ukraine
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Hello everybody.
To begin with, I want to thank everyone, for all the explanations, useful links and the work done to find out the causes of the problem.
I had similar symptoms of noise and vibration in the motor in my K1200R (2008yr) I opened the clutch basket, to my surprise the discs and the pusher base were the latest modifications with oil channels and holes. But the springs in the basket itself rang like a tambourine and I decided to replace them with this.
Http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?p=771695#post771695
And also a video of the Hondakiller2

Https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcTi3Mesa1w&t=5s

Set raymond springs 38mm long, some of the noise disappeared, the transmission began to turn very clearly, especially the first almost without knocking. But when the engine was braking or driving normally, there were horrible vibrations in their 4-6k rpm, which I had not noticed before, especially the vibration of the right footboard. After I cut all the springs to 3mm. The vibrations on these turns decreased and the trembling on the foot disappeared. But the gear shift again became terrible. I plan to shorten the springs to a drain length of 32mm. I also considered the basket and it seems to me that the 2 springs work on damping the cardan impacts, and the other two on the damping of the reverse stroke when braking the engine. Maybe if one pair of springs is thicker, and two more softer I can get rid of the shiver when braking the engine, and improve the shifting performance? If I am wrong correct me or maybe there are other solutions to these difficulties?
Reply With Quote
  #339  
Old 06-02-2017, 09:05 AM
2wheels1<3love's Avatar
2wheels1<3love 2wheels1<3love is offline
Has gotten a ticket or two…
Post: 109 Thanks: 23
Thanked 14 Times in 9 Posts
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by ReAnimator
Hello everybody.
To begin with, I want to thank everyone, for all the explanations, useful links and the work done to find out the causes of the problem.
I had similar symptoms of noise and vibration in the motor in my K1200R (2008yr) I opened the clutch basket, to my surprise the discs and the pusher base were the latest modifications with oil channels and holes. But the springs in the basket itself rang like a tambourine and I decided to replace them with this.
Http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?p=771695#post771695
And also a video of the Hondakiller2

Https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcTi3Mesa1w&t=5s

Set raymond springs 38mm long, some of the noise disappeared, the transmission began to turn very clearly, especially the first almost without knocking. But when the engine was braking or driving normally, there were horrible vibrations in their 4-6k rpm, which I had not noticed before, especially the vibration of the right footboard. After I cut all the springs to 3mm. The vibrations on these turns decreased and the trembling on the foot disappeared. But the gear shift again became terrible. I plan to shorten the springs to a drain length of 32mm. I also considered the basket and it seems to me that the 2 springs work on damping the cardan impacts, and the other two on the damping of the reverse stroke when braking the engine. Maybe if one pair of springs is thicker, and two more softer I can get rid of the shiver when braking the engine, and improve the shifting performance? If I am wrong correct me or maybe there are other solutions to these difficulties?

I would not use those die springs. They are not designed for this type of use. They could (and have) shattered in these clutch baskets before. Not to mention, because those springs are so much heavier than the stock pieces, you are essentially locking up the basket...you might as well put a steel spacer in place of those. Yes, you will get excessive vibrations from this set up, because the springs are doing nothing to dampen the engine output. I would strongly advise you to take those out and replace them with a set from icecolder (if he still has some). He had a spring manf. make an exact copy of the OEM springs, only longer to fit the slots. Same material, wire diameter, ect. They didn't fit 100% perfect in my case, so i ground them down a tiny more to fit, but at least I know they wont shatter, and that the spring rates are comparable to the stock springs. Just my 0.02
__________________
Current:
07' BMW k1200s Black/Blue/Silver
09' Husqvarna TE310 Red/Black
83' Honda V65 Magna Black "THE TANK"

Past But Never Forgotten:
14' Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS Blue
05' BMW K1200s Black/Yellow "Bumble"
11' Kawasaki Z1000 Black "The Z"
08' Kawasaki ZX10-R Metallic Black "Batmobike!"
08' Buell 1125r Black "Sadie" (poor sexy Sadie )
92' Suzuki VX800 Blue "Little Blue"
85' Harley Sporty Ironhead "Old Blue"
78' KZ650 - project bike that was never completed.
Reply With Quote
  #340  
Old 06-06-2017, 03:47 PM
ReAnimator ReAnimator is offline
Entering the on-ramp
Post: 2 Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Kiev, Ukraine
Re: K1300s clutch problems

2wheels1<3love Thanks for the answer, I have a springs production company in my city, try to order required size.
Reply With Quote
  #341  
Old 06-09-2017, 05:19 PM
icecolder icecolder is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 68 Thanks: 2
Thanked 23 Times in 15 Posts
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Re: K1300s clutch problems

2wheels1<3love, thanks for recomendations, unfortunately im not making any more of them.

There is some small nasty things with thous springs and nearly every kit should be custom made to fit.

Some tips to thous who are going to manufacture them:

2 springs work on engine braking and 2 springs work on accelerating. If to make all springs equal and 38 mm length, you will notice vibration.

There is where to aim- for the engine braking springs make 2 springs which are different length. One spring should be as close 38 mm as possible, but free to rotate in a slot, the second spring should be more shorter than the first one- make it 35-36 mm. This is because on small load it will use one spring compressed and another just hold in place- situation where only one spring is working. On heavy load you will have both springs working. And in this situation you will have softer transfer from low load to heavy load. You will notice much lower vibrations.

For the springs which works for acceleration do the same. One spring fits nice but free to rotate in slot, another one shorter- 35-36mm.

Examine the basket once it is opened- you will notice easy where to place which one.

This way it more or less works ok for all baskets.

Good luck.
Reply With Quote
  #342  
Old 06-21-2017, 08:36 PM
jrsndman jrsndman is offline
Entering the on-ramp
Post: 1 Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Abington, PA USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Hi guys. I just recently purchased a 2008 K1200GT with 13,700 miles on it. It has most of the clutch problems noted in this thread. I plan on repairing the clutch. Does anyone have any advice on sourcing the modified friction plate and anti-judder spring. I've messaged John (fourhundred4) but, have yet to hear back.

Also, to those that have done the basket work, where did you find the tapered rivets?


Thanks,
Jim
Reply With Quote
  #343  
Old 06-24-2017, 09:00 AM
fourhundred4 fourhundred4 is offline
Exceeding Highway speeds
Post: 92 Thanks: 1
Thanked 132 Times in 50 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: The North, UK
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Hi All. Been away on a few trips the last month or so. Have to pack them in when retired. Plenty to catch up on here now I'm back. I will get round to replying to the PM's and emails over the next week.

First thing. Did someone ask me to order up a full set of quality Japanese plates? Have them here but can't trace through emails who they were for. Have I ordered a set too many.

I'm still inundated with requests to supply all sorts of parts individually for people to fix their own clutch baskets and clutch hubs. I'm coming round to the idea it might be prudent to offer a pair of full kits. Sending out penny numbers of individual parts is not an efficient use of my time and looking at the numbers could prove impossible. I will continue modifying complete clutch baskets to get rid of the clatter at idle from those loose load springs. And reconditioning hubs by re-engineering the faces, improving oil routes and fitting all new sets of quality new plates where required. Perhaps a full kit for each rebuild could help those with the tools and background to help themselves. Two questions are how full to make the kits - perhaps including the one off use tools and how to help those who attempt, get part way but for one reason or another don't get the required result. We can write and exchange pictures for ever but it might not convey every little detail I check through and can't be there in person to look.

Quick comments on a few things I noticed skim reading over the posts here.

All five load springs in the baskets are in positions to work the same in both the drive (not necessarily just accelerating) and over-run (engine braking and down changing) directions. A drop clutch start - not recommended but had to be built in just in case, and a two gears at once down change or down by mistake instead of up can make full use of all five springs. The sixth spring in this design of basket does not carry drive load - only there to keep the scissor gear action tight so there's no backlash noise from the primary drive gears at idle.

The three rivets holding the basket parts "sandwiched" together are not tapered. The three holes/bores through the casting are tapered though. Have to be tapered so the casting comes out of its dies (moulds) as the metal sets and shrinks. The rivets take on this same taper as the setting (hammering on the ends) of the rivets makes them swell to fill the holes in the casting and cover plate. Its what all rivets do to make themselves tight as can be. Yet a cheap quick solution if you have the expensive tooling for a mass production assembly line.
Reply With Quote
The following (2) I-BMW members 'like', thank -or- are 'shouting out' to 'fourhundred4' for this post:
  #344  
Old 06-24-2017, 10:26 AM
Patrique83's Avatar
Patrique83 Patrique83 is online now
Site Contributor
Post: 565 Thanks: 58
Thanked 284 Times in 183 Posts
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Sydney, Australia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

I don't doubt your expertise on rebuilding clutches,
but after having hammered thousands and thousands of rivets (steel, aluminium, titanium, tapered or not) i can tell you that a steel rivet with such a long shank length will not take up the shape of a tapper hole.....

And, when you look closely at a drilled out rivet from a basket you can see that
the head (inside of the basket) is premanufactured. Only the butt on the backplate is hammered/pressed
Reply With Quote
  #345  
Old 06-24-2017, 04:01 PM
fourhundred4 fourhundred4 is offline
Exceeding Highway speeds
Post: 92 Thanks: 1
Thanked 132 Times in 50 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: The North, UK
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Yes all the heads of the rivets I drill out of five different manufacturers baskets have premanufactured heads at one end. Shanks all made of black rolled wire which will be parallel when made and the heads look to be hot forged on. All rivet shanks are black rather than bright. Some manufacturers its the head end and others its the peened end that is the thicker end of the shank. Only thicker by between 0.05 mm to 0.5 mm depending on the taper in the casting but they wouldn't fit through the casting if the taper was there before peening. The riveting machines they use are orbital. They compress the entire rivet end to end and roll round (orbiting) the end as its peened. Rivet shank shrinks in length and at the same time swells into any available space there is. Not fussy which end.

Secret to dismantling the various manufacturers baskets is knowing which way the rivets and their holes taper. Try to drive them out the wrong way and the castings crack. Sometimes it the head and others the peened end to drive from.

If using tapered rivets. How are you making them?
Reply With Quote
  #346  
Old 07-20-2017, 01:42 AM
Scooter Mcgavin Scooter Mcgavin is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 63 Thanks: 11
Thanked 25 Times in 11 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: San Jose, CA United State
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Bringing this thread back to life as i am having problems with my clutch as well at 30k miles. My symptoms are cant find neutral and lever disengages at handlebars.

My questions are as follows
1) why or how would i burn up the clutch?
2) I used Castrol Power 1 10w40 last change, as they dont make the RS version here in the USA anymore. Would that make an effect?
3) Would using aftermarket clutch plates benifit or hinder performance?
4) Will a man mechanically average be able to make repairs in his garage?

PS. Please respond as if you are talking with your wife, i am not fluent in engine jargon.
Reply With Quote
  #347  
Old 07-20-2017, 02:08 AM
mcchoc's Avatar
mcchoc mcchoc is offline
Twisted Wrister
Post: 658 Thanks: 187
Thanked 119 Times in 79 Posts
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: East Riding of Yorkshire UK, England
Re: K1300s clutch problems

[quote= My symptoms are cant find neutral and lever disengages at handlebars.

[/QUOTE]

I'm no techie, and my (new to me) K13MS has just had new plates and bearing on warranty, but your symptoms suggest that you could simply be losing hydraulic pressure through a leak - perhaps at the slave cylinder, or maybe the master cylinder seals have gone south?

You have too much 'bite' rather that too much 'slip', which is the normal way of things . .
__________________
The Warthog
2014 K1300S MS (until it's time for that invalid scooter)
1997 K1200RS (old faithful)
History:
Yamaha RD250 (x2)
Yamaha XS750
Kawasaki Z1000 (x3)
Honda Blackbird
Yamaha FJ1200 (x2)
BMW K1200S
Reply With Quote
  #348  
Old 07-20-2017, 02:15 AM
screwy's Avatar
screwy screwy is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 57 Thanks: 4
Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Riga, LV Latvia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter Mcgavin
Bringing this thread back to life as i am having problems with my clutch as well at 30k miles. My symptoms are cant find neutral and lever disengages at handlebars.

My questions are as follows
1) why or how would i burn up the clutch?
2) I used Castrol Power 1 10w40 last change, as they dont make the RS version here in the USA anymore. Would that make an effect?
3) Would using aftermarket clutch plates benifit or hinder performance?
4) Will a man mechanically average be able to make repairs in his garage?

PS. Please respond as if you are talking with your wife, i am not fluent in engine jargon.

1) A clutch change at 30k miles is normal. But burned clutch simptoms are clutch slippage under load. You should check the slave cylinder and clutch basket as well.

2)Here in Europe Castrol is quite bad quality, we try to avoid it, i would recommend Motul, ELF, Mobil 1, Valvoline. And it must meet the required standarts - API and JASO MA/MA2.
But anyway - the oil would not make the clutch go bad.

3)Performance will be the same, maybe the clutch life of original plates would be longer.

4)Yes, but special tools are needed.
Reply With Quote
  #349  
Old 07-24-2017, 02:15 AM
hmeiseles's Avatar
hmeiseles hmeiseles is offline
Exceeding Highway speeds
Post: 116 Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Clarita, CA USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

I have 84K miles on my 2010 K1300s. Current symptoms are clutch lever needs to be pulled all the way to the grip to release the clutch and bike is difficult to get into neutral. The clutch is not slipping. I am wondering do I change the clutch pac, or the clutch pac and basket, or something else. Other than changing fluid the clutch has never been serviced. Does anyone do this work besides a dealer in Southern California?

Howard
__________________
1994 K75 (Sold)
2010 K1300S
2015 K1300S MotoSport
Reply With Quote
  #350  
Old 07-24-2017, 02:33 AM
screwy's Avatar
screwy screwy is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 57 Thanks: 4
Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Riga, LV Latvia
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by hmeiseles
I have 84K miles on my 2010 K1300s. Current symptoms are clutch lever needs to be pulled all the way to the grip to release the clutch and bike is difficult to get into neutral. The clutch is not slipping. I am wondering do I change the clutch pac, or the clutch pac and basket, or something else. Other than changing fluid the clutch has never been serviced. Does anyone do this work besides a dealer in Southern California?

Howard

If there is no rattle noise from the clutch springs then the basket should be fine.
The K1300S model basket is ok, comparing to the early model K1200S.
Just change the clutch pack and it should be fine again. The steel plates need to be changed also, not just the friction plates.
It is an easy job and any motorcycle service should be able to do it.
Reply With Quote
  #351  
Old 07-24-2017, 11:16 AM
DOA DOA is offline
Twisted Wrister
Post: 763 Thanks: 230
Thanked 169 Times in 135 Posts
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Alinor, FL USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

We assume you tried adjusting the lever to engage sooner. And made sure your clutch actuator is not loose. Easy fixes first!
__________________
New K1300s on May 6 2015!
I would post a pic, but Priis looks like all the other Motorsport Editions out there.
Reply With Quote
  #352  
Old 07-24-2017, 12:53 PM
mondrage mondrage is offline
Site Contributor
Post: 1,541 Thanks: 67
Thanked 431 Times in 293 Posts
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Managua, Nicaragua
Send a message via Skype™ to mondrage
Re: K1300s clutch problems

change the clutch pack. That's it.
They're worn out, and soon they'll start slipping.
It's an easy job if you want to do it yourself, but a shop should be able to do it fairly quickly.
__________________
----------------------------------------------------
BMW K1200LT 2006
BMW K1200R: "Drophammer" 2006
BMW R1200GS 2008
Suzuki DR-Z400E 2000 (SOLD), Honda CB550Four 1978 (SOLD)
BMW R1200R 2009 (in my stable, thinking about it...)
BMW K1200S 2007 (in my stable, we'll see)

-----------------------------------------------------
Reply With Quote
  #353  
Old 09-16-2017, 12:05 PM
hmeiseles's Avatar
hmeiseles hmeiseles is offline
Exceeding Highway speeds
Post: 116 Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Clarita, CA USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Thank you for your assessment. I made the decision to change the clutch pack with a package made by Barrett. Now to do the job, which does not look complicated, is to acquire the two BMW tools (the alignment pin, and the driver lock). Does anyone have either of these used tools they would care to sell? If you do please let me know your price via a PM.

Thanks
__________________
1994 K75 (Sold)
2010 K1300S
2015 K1300S MotoSport
Reply With Quote
  #354  
Old 09-17-2017, 12:19 PM
Epi's Avatar
Epi Epi is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 121 Thanks: 1
Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Victoria, BC Canada
Re: K1300s clutch problems

I had the same symptoms at about 60k KM. Not slipping, but rather hard engage neutral, constantly pulling,etc. Seemed that if I had an inch more of clutch travel all would be well. My issue only really presented itself on hotter days, which we rarely get here in Victoria. Down at SGR in Cali however, the problem would rear its ugly head.

I finally brought it to the dealer at 80k KM, who diagnosed it as worn plates. Sooo... after changing the plates (and the basket), he came back and said I also needed a new slave cylinder. If I recall, he described it that a piston had created a divot, reducing my clutch travel.

While my clutch pack and basket *may* have been contributors, I believe the the slave cylinder was the main culprit. As the cheapest, and easiest piece of this whole puzzle, I suggest starting there.
Reply With Quote
This I-BMW member either likes, thanks -or- is 'shouting out' to 'Epi' for this post:
  #355  
Old 09-19-2017, 01:24 AM
hmeiseles's Avatar
hmeiseles hmeiseles is offline
Exceeding Highway speeds
Post: 116 Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Clarita, CA USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Thanks for your note. I replaced the slave cylinder first, as it looked to be easier and much less expensive. It appears that the resultant issue is I must not have bleed the circult as the clutch does not disengage. This weekend I will work on bleeding the circuit again to determine if I can fix it.

If anyone has a bleeding tip, my ears are open.

Howard
__________________
1994 K75 (Sold)
2010 K1300S
2015 K1300S MotoSport
Reply With Quote
  #356  
Old 09-19-2017, 01:56 AM
Beech's Avatar
Beech Beech is offline
I-BMW Rider of the Year 2016
Post: 6,545 Thanks: 1,611
Thanked 1,533 Times in 1,173 Posts
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: mount vernon, WA usa
Re: K1300s clutch problems

The clutch pipe is very thin and collects bubbles. It is very hard to bleed to no air. The best way to fill it is from the bottom not the top lever reservoir. But, now that there is fluid in it, Tie the clutch lever back to the grip and let it set over night, bars turned to the right. Open the reservoir lid and watch for bubbles as you carefully work the lever and gently tap the side of the reservoir body with something like a screwdriver handle. You will see bubbles work their way out as you do this process. It may take a couple of nights. The lever will eventually firm up and work correctly. You did use mineral oil and not brake fluid?
__________________
Beech Arriba, Abajo, Al Centro, Adentro
Mount Vernon Cannon Works
K1300S
S1000R
I need a Vespa
I change your tires, you buy them on the web, I do the work $40, trying to keep riders on the road.
Reply With Quote
  #357  
Old 09-19-2017, 02:05 AM
hmeiseles's Avatar
hmeiseles hmeiseles is offline
Exceeding Highway speeds
Post: 116 Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Clarita, CA USA
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Thanks for your advice. I will give your method a try. I filled the system with mineral oil.

Howard
__________________
1994 K75 (Sold)
2010 K1300S
2015 K1300S MotoSport
Reply With Quote
  #358  
Old 11-23-2017, 04:15 PM
PeterD's Avatar
PeterD PeterD is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 44 Thanks: 17
Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: London, UK, UK
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Clutch replacement tools for sale: If anyone is contemplating replacing their clutch I have the two necessary tools available: the little tensioning tool, and a (non-BMW) Clutch Holding Tool.
http://www.cymarcbikeparts.co.uk/k-s...tool-194-p.asp
Make me an offer and I will post from London UK by your choice of carriage.
PM me if interested.
Peter
__________________
2009 K1300S | BMW sapphire black metallic custom spray | Remus Hexacone titanium exhaust | Quickshifter | ESA | RDC | MRA smoke grey touring screen | Hornig refurbished leather seat | Nautilus air horn | LED emblem side blinkers | LED front & rear indicators | HID main beam | Clear indicator lenses | Polished stainless steel bar ends | Alloy instrument surround trim | BMW sport cases | Givi 47NT Tech top case | R&G crash bungs | Side stand foot enlarger | Skidmarx GRP Black gloss hugger
Reply With Quote
  #359  
Old 11-23-2017, 04:41 PM
panason1c's Avatar
panason1c panason1c is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 66 Thanks: 50
Thanked 15 Times in 10 Posts
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Wellington, United Kingd
Re: K1300s clutch problems

Peter, PM sent
Reply With Quote
  #360  
Old 03-21-2018, 02:47 PM
Honolulu Honolulu is offline
Getting up to speed
Post: 73 Thanks: 1
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Honolulu, HI USA
paging fourhundred4 / John Sykes

John:

I'd like to revive this very useful thread as I have all manner of difficulty finding neutral at a stop on my 2010 K1300GT, and shifting is clunky at best. Makes me long for my '85 K100RS which had very smooth clutch action from the single plate dry clutch therein.

On/about 6/2017 you mused about supplying kits of parts for clutch rebuilds. Have you made any decision to do so, if if so what parts are in which kit?

Secondarily, a post above suggested that a needle bearing change made all the difference (that particular bike) needed. IIRC one of your videos may have noted the bearing and race were not a close fit and stated a better bearing with more rollers would be useful. Comment?

For those of us with up-to-date BMW parts, is it your vision that these provide sufficient oil flow to the clutch plates?

I'll PM if no response in several days...
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools..
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads (a database pull of similar subject matter)
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1998 k1200rs clutch problems, tkpinsc "KRS/GT" Technical Q&A 9 12-28-2015 06:40 AM
Pazzo levers - conversion from K1200S to K1300S Paughco "K13S" Accessories 11 08-30-2014 03:00 PM
K1300S electrical problems rider29206 "K13S" Gen. Discussions 24 07-13-2014 08:17 PM
K1300S Clutch Rattle Cured K13Mike "K13S/R" Technical Q&A 7 08-01-2013 02:24 PM
Clutch problems dbw "K12S" Gen. Discussions 4 10-30-2010 09:27 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:49 AM.


I-BMW.com is via vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 1998 - 2018, I-BMW.com LLC .
Page generated in 3.06862 seconds with 16 queries