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  #1  
Old 09-26-2016, 10:41 PM
GaryMC GaryMC is offline
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Post Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Hello and greeting from the Puget Sound region of Washington State in the soggy Pacific NorthWET of the U.S.!

I am getting ready to take a job on the East Side of Puget Sound. I live on the West side. There are two ways to do this, a 90+ mile, each way trip south, across the only bridge, and then back north again (with a $5 toll), or a 30 minute trip across the Sound on a Ferry, twice a day. In a car, on a 'pass', that's $16.50 a day. On a motorcycle, that's $7.85 per day. Needless to say, it's far less expensive to ride a motorcycle across the pond than it is to take a car, even if it is a bit drier in the car.

A year ago, I took my Motorcycle Safety Foundation course, and have my endorsement. Due to a variety of factors, I have not yet purchased a motorcycle, but I've had four different people tell me that for what I want to do, a Sport Touring bike is my best choice. Actually, that's not true, four different people, of which only one was at a dealer, told me to get a Yamaha FJR1300. Well, I can't afford one of those right now, and the ones I could afford are all very high mileage, i.e., 60K+ miles. Noooooo, I'd prefer something with a little less mileage on it. In perusing Cycle Trader, I've found four 2006 K1200GTs, and one 2010 K1300GT. The K1300 is out of my price range, the others come in right about where my max is, about $7,000-7,500. NADA Bluebook puts the higher retail price right at $7,000.

All of these motorcycles have less than 30,000 miles, which from the BMW riders I've spoken to, means they're basically just getting broken in. All of these are the newer, slant four engine, instead of the Brick from the previous generation. All are in fine shape, from what I've seen of them. I have not ridden any of them yet.

All of the 2006 models will have the Servo Brakes on them, and I realize that if that goes, it's a VERY expensive, i.e., $2,000 repair. But, I also haven't seen too many of them that actually fail.

As far as physical size, I'm 6' tall, about 250 pounds, and I can easily sit on the bike and plant both feet on the ground. Handlebar reach is fine, and I'm comfortable in the saddle. I know that people will tell you never to get a motorcycle as large as this for your first bike, and I can understand that. But, for a number of reasons I'm not going to get into, I really can't afford to go the 'step up' route, starting out with something like a Honda CTX 700 or something in that class. Right now, I can only afford to buy one bike, and in this class, there aren't too many other options for what I want that comes equipped with windshield and saddlebags, heated grips, etc. I expect this bike to be a year round bike.
For those of you who are aghast at that, our winter temps here in the Seattle area are actually rather mild. I've been here over 11 years now, and I've seen more snow in one average Mid-Atlantic/Pennsylvania winter than I have seen the entire time I've been here. We get a LOT of rainy days, but our actual annual rainfall is less than New York City! Riding in the winter/cold months is routine, and everyone does it. Just have the gear to stay warm.

So, having said all of that, my options are really limited to what I can buy in the class I'm looking for at the price range I'm interested in.

Please tell me all the horror stories, and what to look out for on a purchase of a BMW K1200GT from 2006 and on.
We also have several K1200S's available, most with saddlebags (which I require), but I don't want to be bent over on it, and besides, from what I've seen, that's a bike that you can easily lose your license on. That's not an option, either.

Your information, help, suggestions and such are welcomed and appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Gary
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  #2  
Old 09-26-2016, 10:47 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Gary, there are pages and pages of threads on these bikes in this forum. Use search, use different key words in your search, and surely you will find what you seek, as everyone has shared information on this 10+ yr old bike.

Good luck, and welcome to the forum.

http://www.i-bmw.com/forumdisplay.php?f=35
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:51 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Hi Gary, welcome, and good intro!

IMO in used bikes, you have same possibilities to find the perfect bike, or other with problems, same as other brands, cars or others.

Look for a bike with known history, all the services, and good shape. Is possible you can have some issues, but who knows . Same as women

Usually BMW owners treats and maintain the bikes with care

Follow your heart and pull the trigger
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:50 PM
7thBeemer 7thBeemer is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

My advice would be to look for a used boxer model, GS, GSA, or RT due to complexity and cost of maintenance of the Slant 4 motors. A lot can be saved by doing it yourself but the GT is a more difficult and expensive motorcycle to maintain whether for the casual do it your selfer. Paying for maintenace makes it even more expensive to maintain. Of course a lot depends on the number of miles you ride.

I also think the boxer is a better first motorcyle than the slant 4 than the very powerful slant 4 K bikes.

There are a few really really knowledgeable chaps on this site from the Pacific North West who will probably weigh in soon.

Best of luck in your quest man.
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Old 09-27-2016, 01:02 AM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

7th,
Very few boxers around here that meet my requirements, and those that do are outside of my price range. There are some older R1150Rs, but I want a faired bike for the weather. Even those have mileage starting in the mid 60K range, which is above what I want to buy, again from a maintenance point of view.

There are some F800STs, which are faired, windshield and saddle bags, but the positioning on them, at least from what I've seen, isn't conducive to my old, broken down back. If I could find a F800GT, with bags and such, I would consider that, but everyone I've seen is over my price point, and the newer ones are approaching $11,000, way too rich for me at this point.

We all know that BMW means Bring More Wallet, and my wallet is spread pretty thin right now. I don't want to, but I may have to forego buying a BMW altogether. But, BMW has one of the longest motorcycle manufacturing histories and they are, in my opinion, worth the price. I certainly don't object to turning a wrench now and again to get what I need done, that's for sure. That doesn't scare me in the least bit, but I also want craftsmanship and reliability, which is why I'm looking at the K1200GTs in this time frame.

In another thread, someone rightly said that you'll hear about all the problems, but what you don't hear is the years and years of routine service with no issues. In talking with BMW owners from last year through the present, most of them I've spoken with have been overwhelmingly approving of their bikes and their choices.

So, I don't know.

Gary
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:11 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Hi Gary,

I know your feelings about buying a BMW, including the K1200GT. They are great motorcycles, with amazing features that are ahead of their time. I have owned my K1200GT since I bought it in 2007 and I love it. I wish I could recommend one to you too, but I can't.


BMW MOTORCYCLES

BMW motorcycles are very expensive to own. One reason that those 2006 K1200GTs are in your price range is that the future cost of parts, maintenance, and especially repairs are very very high. If your budget is that tight, then quite frankly, you can't afford to own it. Besides, you can just as easily lose your license on a K1200GT as a K1200S. Either motorcycle can go 150 mph, no problem. See my advice below.


BUY A SMALLER USED MOTORCYCLE FOR YOUR FIRST BIKE

I agree with all of your friends who advised you to buy a smaller used bike for the first motorcycle you own. They are 100% right. I don't want to sound like your mother, but new riders are at much higher risk of accident and injury. If you just got your pilot's license, you wouldn't start out in an F-16 fighter or a 747, would you?

I STRONGLY urge you to buy a well-used mid-size motorcycle in decent running condition at a much lower price. Set aside money for gear (see below). Save the rest of the money for your next motorcycle. Ride it for a year until you gain that much needed experience that no course can teach you. Stay under 600cc - it will still have plenty of power for any urban riding conditions, and will be much easier to handle in traffic. Many riders ride smaller "commute" motorcycles for those reasons. When you are ready to buy a bigger motorcycle, you should be able to sell the old used one for close to what you paid for it anyway. Treat the small difference between buy and sell prices a "lease". :-)

For the record, I have known riders who bought a big bike as soon as they finished their first class and got their license. A few were lucky, but many (dare I say "most"?) regretted it.


GOOD SAFETY GEAR IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN WHICH MOTORCYCLE YOU BUY

* Don't skimp on safety gear, especially because riding conditions are more difficult in the Great Northwet. I know, because I lived and rode year-round in Vancouver BC for years. As a US citizen who visited family and friends in Washington frequently, I know the Puget Sound area very well.

Truthfully, getting the right gear is at least as important as getting the right motorcycle. Good safety gear will cost $1,000 or more. You will need real, purpose-designed helmet, jacket, pants, boots, and several gloves. If your safety gear isn't waterproof on the outside, then you will also need rain gear. In my opinion, the gear that comes with zip-in or snap-in separate waterproof liner on the inside doesn't work. The outside gets saturated, cold, and heavy and leaks through. Unfortunately, the best Gore-Tex gear, such as Aerostich and Klim, is very expensive, but worth the money, especially if you live in Washington. Better to buy a cheaper motorcycle and quality gear. For a daily commute, I would consider buying an Aerostich one-piece jumpsuit that you can zip over your work clothes. I have Klim Badlands Pro jacket and pants, and they have kept me completely dry in unbelievably bad weather.

Hints:
1. Don't underestimate the safety impact of the cold, especially when it is wet out. You live in an area where the cold is a serious concern. Consider buying a heated jacket liner and heated gloves at minimum.
2. Buy 100% pure silk glove liners. They are inexpensive. They will add extra warmth and make it possible to insert and remove your hands from your gloves. Without them, it is almost impossible to get your hands into your gloves, because the slightest moisture will make the inside liner grip your fingers like glue and prevent you from inserting them.
3. There are no such thing as waterproof gloves. Some are better than others, but none will stay dry in a steady downpour for hours. My friends recommend Aerostich triple digit covers, but I have never tried them. Frankly, when I ride all day in the rain, my hands will get wet, and I accept it.
4. Visor fogging is a serious problem where you live. I never found a perfect solution, but Pinlock seems to work the best for me so far. Personally, I would buy a helmet from a company that sells visors that support Pinlock, even if you later decide not to use Pinlock.

Summary about gear:
According to what I read a long time ago, 75% of motorcycle collisions happen to first year riders. Nobody expects to fall. Puget Sound pavement and other vehicles hurt just as bad as everywhere else. Even with the best gear, you can be seriously injured or killed, and your riding environment is more dangerous, with reduced visibility, reduced traction, hidden hazards under the water, black ice, etc.


MAINTENANCE IS CRITICALLY IMPORTANT

Don't skimp on maintenance. In particular, your brakes and tires must be in tip-top condition, but any equipment failure in urban riding can be fatal.


CONTINUOUS TRAINING IS ESSENTIAL

---> DO THIS NOW, BEFORE YOU BUY THAT MOTORCYCLE:
* Read "Proficient Motorcycling, 2nd Edition" by David L. Hough. Cover to cover, okay?
David L. Hough lives and rides in Washington, by the way.

* Retake that training course again, or better yet, take the advanced course. Do it before you start that commute. Take other training courses. Keep taking them. Take them until you lose count of how many you have taken.

* Set aside time (say, on weekends) to practice your riding skills, especially braking. Do it often. I still do, even after 35 years of near daily riding.


HAVE A BACKUP PLAN

There are days when it snows or is too icy to be safe. Safety is paramount. Have another way to get to work for those days when it is not safe to ride.


SUMMARY

* Buy a smaller, used bike. You will get the vast majority of that money back when you sell it in a year or so.
* Budget a significant amount of money for quality safety gear. You won't regret it. Hopefully you won't have to depend on it.
* Maintain your bike. Budget for it, too.
* Set aside money for additional training, books, etc.


FINALLY

Reassess your priorities. Motorcyclists ride because it is in their blood and it is an essential part of their lives. They live, breathe, and eat it because they love it. It is hard (and painful) for them to imagine a life without riding, which would be very depressing indeed! Be sure you truly understand your motives for riding. Realistically assess the risks to you and especially to your loved ones. One collision will wipe out a lifetime of $8.65 daily ferry toll savings.

Good luck!

- - XMR
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  #7  
Old 09-27-2016, 12:44 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

The cautions listed above are good and come from much experience. Folks who think a motorcycle makes a economical commute vehicle soon find out differently. Of course certain aspects are attractive, like the ferry discount and going to the front of the line (where the salt spray is!), or being able to lane split in California. Maintenance on a K12/13 series bike is probably one of the highest in the industry. You seem to have ruled out RT's. I believe you should move away from BMW and take a hard look at a Suzuki v strom 650XT with ABS which you could afford new. Maybe a Concourse if you insist on a larger bike. Both could suitable and come with bags. Personally (and I have been a bmw guy for 45 years) I'd go with the V-Strom for a commuter.
Years back I road two years all year round to work. No extra car, left the truck for the wife. It took the fun out of riding. I live in the same area as you and I remember one night in 17*F going to work.
There are ten Vstroms listed in Craig's list at the moment. A used bike will have goodies added to it already. Look around. Ask when the chain was replaced. That is a 350$ expense right there for a good set of sprockets and an oring chain. You will need that Aerostitch suit. Rain resistant, crash resistant and warm. Thirty seconds to put on or remove.
So, all these posts are not what you thought you were going to get are they?
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:57 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

XMR,
With all due respect, NONE of my friends have told me to get a smaller bike. Everyone that I spoke with, dealer, riding couple, mechanic and a fellow commuter ALL told me to get a FJR1300, which is bigger and heavier than the K1200GT.

About as close as I would go to a 'smaller bike is a 2010 F800ST. I would, if I had to go that route, prefer the 800GT, but there aren't any available in my price range.

As to gear, I plan on Firstgear, since Klim is just out of my reach. A jacket, pants, good gloves, waterproof boots and a good, modular helmet. I can get a very nice deal on a Kabuto Ibuki for under $300 new, and Revzilla has a couple Schuberth's on sale for about $200 off. I also plan on a BT communicator.

Training right now, to advance it, requires that I own a bike, so once I get whatever I end up with, I'll be doing a little riding, and then look up continue my education.

Thank you for your input.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:26 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Beech,
Quite the contrary, these posts are EXACTLY what I expected. They are also what I hoped for. Call it a reality check, if you will. Moreso than most, I understand how easy it is to want to get into something, and looking for the best, top of the line, all around coolest gear, and getting in way over your head. I don't want to do that.

I have a set point for what I think I'm going to be able to spend, and I know what that will buy me. The R's are much more expensive. In fact, this is the only R series 'RT' model that falls into m price range.

http://www.cycletrader.com/dealers/P...50RT-119670097

You know the weather out here, so I want a full fairing for the winter riding, as well as the larger windscreen. Plus, one of the other reasons I want a bike like this is I'm single, and I'd like to be able to pack up the panniers with a day's worth of clothes changes and my cameras and head out for some photo sessions. You know what wonderful photography can be had in this part of the world, and getting there on a bike is half the fun of it.

But, the RT listed in that ad is about $1,500 less than the four year newer GT at Ride West, with 2,000 less miles. I'm would like to think I can get them to drop the price on the GT by $500 or so, but I'm not sure about the RT, since those things tend to hold their value more than other BMWs.

For about the same price as I might expect to be able to get the GT for, Ride West also has the F800ST, a 2010, with a lot less miles on it.

http://www.bmwmcofseattle.com/content/bmw-f800st-0

That would be my second choice, the R1150RT, being my fourth (R.W. has another F800ST with about 25K miles on it for third choice.)

About the only other option that strikes me is the Honda CTX700. Again, I'm looking for fairing and windscreen. Everett Powersports has a 2014, with $1000 worth of Honda 'Bonus Bucks', so I should be able to get saddle bags and a taller windscreen with that, and keep it under the cost of the F800ST or 1200GT. But, honestly, I don't like the riding position on it, although I might get used to it, plus, no ABS, will need to add heated grips, etc.

My issues with the V-Strom is that it's a Dual Sport, Adventure, or Roadster, depending on which way you look at it. I want something that even if I'm wearing a full set of pants and jacket, or rain gear, that I will still have some basic rain protection and element protection from the bike itself, hence a Sport Touring machine.

I do greatly appreciate the input, though.

Gary
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:56 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

It's all advice. So, after you buy something and ride it awhile, please come back to this thread with feed back.
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:30 AM
GaryMC GaryMC is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Beech, I certainly will.

I DO, really, appreciate all the input and advice.

Gary
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:19 AM
XMagnaRider XMagnaRider is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryMC
XMR, With all due respect, NONE of my friends have told me to get a smaller bike. [...]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beech
It's all advice. So, after you buy something and ride it awhile, please come back to this thread with feed back.

Argue with no true believer.

(from A Garland of Precepts by Phillis McGinley).
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:32 AM
GaryMC GaryMC is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

One of my major issues is cost, and what money I'll have available to buy not only the bike, but all of my gear to go with it. Right now, from the sale of items I'm making, I am hoping to bring in between $9,500 and 11,000 USD. I figure a little over $2,200 is going to go to gear. That includes Firstgear pants and jacket, gloves, waterproof boots, a Firstgear heated liner and Heattroller, a helmet, and Sena 10U. The Helmet, if still available when I get the money together, is a Schuberth C3 Pro North America graphic, for $629 USD. If there are any left.

The rest goes to the bike.

Now, looking through CycleTrader and Craigslist, I've identified a couple of other bikes that might be worthwhile looking at.

First is a 2013 F800GT, with saddle bags, etc. About 18,000 miles, and asking of $7,700. Then, I'll have to pay taxes, registration, title transfer, etc of ~$700. That's only if I come in on the high end of my selling price.

Then, I found an Ex- Police R1150RT-P with about 47K miles on it, asking price of $6,000. Again, I'll need to pay taxes, reg, title, etc.

Local dealer has two F800STs, for under $7K, and the K1200GT for $7,500. There is always leeway to play with pricing, and getting the dealer to eat the fees.

Other than that, I haven't really found any full faired bike with windscreen, saddle bags, etc., in my price range, unless we end up talking about older H-D, and I don't WANT a H-D bike.

So, give me your impressions on the R1150RT-P and the F800GT, please.

Gary
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:02 AM
7thBeemer 7thBeemer is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

I think the F800GT makes a lot more sense for both a first bike for someone weighing 250 pounds and as a commuter. You get ABS that other brands may or my not have. ABS is a great saftety feature. The belt drive is low maintenance with a 24k mile, mybe longer, replacement. Valve check interval is 12k miles. The F800GT is very visually appealling to me.

I would put the R1150RT-Pa very distant second and would eliminate it entirely if it has Servo Brakes.

This link lists the years and models that used Servo Brakes and I would not touch any of them with a tight budget as a big concern. https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/sh.../abs-fte-abs3/

It is nearing the time of year for us in North America when dealers are lot more willing to negotiate prices on used! They would much rather get some money now as their next oppurtunity for a sale might not be for another 6 months.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:02 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Thanks 7th! I'll be looking at the list. I found a newer R1200RT-P, a 2009, but I don't know how many miles on it. It IS a lot less money, though, so it may be 'high' mileage. I know BMWs run forever, if they're taken care of, but I don't really want something that is going to nickel and dime me to death, either.

About the only other bikes that I am seriously looking at would be the FJR1300, or a Honda CTX700, kitted out. Those are harder then all get out to find, or out of my price range. I may end up going with one of those.

Gary
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:02 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Hi Gary and welcome to the forum!

I'll chime in with my experience with BMW M/cycles - first was an F650GS - owned it for a few years and great for local riding but not enough power and wind protection on longer trips plus why buy a BMW with a chain when they're known for shaft drives?

Second BMW - R65LS - a total restoration project and a lesson in learning about the basic airhead boxer twin - it was a frame up project and only took about 3-4 years to finally get 99% of the bugs out - a money pit but looked at it more like an education.

Third BMW - 1987 K75s - the "road burner" An amazing ride - rode it for about 8 years on several xcountry trips and she never let me down! I've ridden the F800 and found it buzzy and nothing in comparison to smoothness and power of the K75s.

Fourth BMW - R60/5 - just a beauty queen - got a good deal on her and she's in really nice shape but only goes about 65mph so not great for any LD trips unless I don't care about time - but I still do.

Fifth BMW - '08 K1200GT with 11k miles - purchase price @8k and after needed maintenance including ABS Unit(failed due to hack repair by P/O), new air filter, spark plugs, and all fluids changed and Clearwater driving lights - so now about 10k total into bike and she's as good as new.

XMR nailed it in previous post - if I were you and listened to advice provided, I'd start with a K75 or R1100RT - you shouldn't get into serious trouble on either but of course, it's always easy to do on 2 wheels.

Whatever you decide - take your time on the right bike for you, buying a bike with good maintenance records is a good benchmark to knowing history of the bike, proper riding gear.

I still have the K75s and she's a beauty in fantastic shape - most likely giving to my son who's completing his 4 years in USMC and if he's not interested will reluctantly sell.

Good Luck!
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Old 10-01-2016, 05:54 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

My advice--stay away from the '06 K1200GT. I waited until '07 to buy one and they were still buggy, but not as buggy as the '06's. The '08's and the K1300GT's are much more sorted out, and a better investment. As far as price $7K is too much for an '06.**************MdMn**
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Old 10-01-2016, 09:56 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Get anything BUT a 2006 GT. I still have nightmares about mine!
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Old 10-02-2016, 12:59 AM
GaryMC GaryMC is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

So many wonderful replies here. In looking through Craigslist and CycleTrader, most of the K1200GTs for sale are indeed 2006s. After reading this, I may understand why.

There are a couple of K1200GTs in the 2008 year, and a couple of K1300GTs from 2009 and 2010, but they are more expensive. A lot of this is going to depend on how much money I can get from the sale of the stuff I have.

There were two ex-Police R1200RTs, one was a 2006, and I've been told to stay away from that because of the same reasons for the K1200GT, the servo brakes and such. The other one is a 2009, but has almost 80K miles on it. Just had fuel pump and something else for the fuel supply replaced, but the mileage bothers me.

Unless I can find a really killer deal on a K bike (there is ONE, three or four hours away, but might be worth it), I think I'll end up looking at the F800 ST or GT, or the R1200RT, post 2006.

I thank you all for your input, it has been most helpful, and exactly what I wanted, and needed, to hear.
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Old 10-02-2016, 06:30 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Theresa's 2007 K1200GT is for sale on eBay for $5,500. Hers had no troubles compared to mine which just sold.
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:30 PM
GaryMC GaryMC is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Found another 2007 K1200GT about three hours up the road from me, asking $5,300 with 33,000 miles. The only thing it doesn't have is ASC, and if I really want that, it can be retrofitted. In the wet weather of the PNW, I wouldn't mind having it on the bike, but I don't think I really need it. It's not like I'm going to be racing the bike, or doing extralegal speeds on it.
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:01 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Gary, this being your first bike, that option is one I would strongly recommend. If the rear wheel were to start slipping out, the ASC would cut the throttle and give you hope for a save. An inexperienced throttle hand could easily upset that rear wheel with that powerful bike.

Also, no matter how good the tires look, make sure they deduct price for new rubber of your choice! Old tires with a lot of tread aren't worth a damn. Hot rain tires are the new Metzeler 01's by a landslide, making most others obsolete if you go by the reviews, except for maybe Pirelli Angels.

Your timing is good because you are buying in the offseason-better opportunities on the bike price and lots of gear close out specials. Revzilla has awesome Gear Geeks and offer great advice. Don't cheap out on your gear. Try and buy the best possible and try for close outs. I've made many mistakes on gear-I had 4 suits, sold 2, and bought a new one, Klim Badlands...awesome suit. I might just sell the others now.

Good luck!
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Old 10-03-2016, 12:32 AM
GaryMC GaryMC is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

John,
That's my thinking on the ASC. It doesn't hurt to have a little extra protection in the system.

As to gear, I like Klim, a lot of my friends wear it. My only issue with it, mostly, is that it's really just a shell, which means a lot of layers underneath of it.

So, I'm thinking Firstgear instead. Kathmandu jacket and pants. If I can get my stuff sold soon enough, Revzilla has a Schuberth C3 Pro North America graphic in black for $629, that's a no brainer. Probably Firstgear WP gloves, and not sure which boots. Finally, I'll probably get a Firstgear heated jacket and wireless Heattroller. My gear costs will be over $2,000 (I also plan on a Sena 10U for the Schuberth). So, I'm not skimping on that, but if I went with Klim, it would be over $3,000!

Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 10-03-2016, 01:07 AM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Gary, more than anything, it's the style and type of jacket, not just the brand. You've got the style down, but Revit and Dianese have similar suits as the Katmandu, nothing wrong with it, just shop the close outs. There are a half dozen sites that sell clothing besides Revzilla, and not all brands are price protected like Klim. I got lucky...I managed to pay about $850 for my Klim Badlands jacket and pants. Held also has a lot of close outs on gloves. Boots, has to, has to be Gore Tex. I have a pair of Dianese TRQ Gore Tex as well as BMW Allround Gore Tex. Both are great boots, just different styling.

Beech had mentioned Aerostich. I think you can wear that over work clothes. Just another good thing to consider for commuting.

http://www.motorbikestoday.com/featu...oadcrafter.htm
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Current Bikes-The Perfect Combination
'15 R12GSAW 'The I-BMW Pussy Bike'
'09 K1300S 'fits me like a glove' with Wilbers
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'04 K1200RS with Ohlins (traded for GSA)
'11 F800R (traded for GSA)

Last edited by jargon : 10-03-2016 at 01:12 AM. Reason: Added link
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Old 10-03-2016, 01:58 AM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

The R1150RT has a great reputation by the way. Big enough to be comfortable for a big guy, not so much power to get you in trouble, but plenty enough to have a good experience on. It also has everything on your list. That bike gets my vote. They will talk price with you too. Don't put dealers on a pedestal and make sure they give you those Metzeler 01's.

Ditto on the servo brakes.
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Current Bikes-The Perfect Combination
'15 R12GSAW 'The I-BMW Pussy Bike'
'09 K1300S 'fits me like a glove' with Wilbers
Handy Motorcycle Lift

Past Bikes
'04 K1200RS with Ohlins (traded for GSA)
'11 F800R (traded for GSA)
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:08 AM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

John,
Aerostitch is fine, and if I could find a used set, I would snap them up. However, a two piece, Roadcrafter Classic is almost $1,400 new. It's guaranteed forever, and they stand behind their guarantee, but that's a LOT of money I don't have, even with the sale of my stuff.

As to the R1150RT, if there were any for sale around here, I'd seriously consider them. Mostly, out here, are the R1150Rs. I don't want a 'R', I want an 'RT' if I'm going that way.
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:09 PM
XMagnaRider XMagnaRider is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Okay, I will comment a little more, and then Gary can ignore it:

1. Kathmandu gear:
I don't know what "Hypertex" is, but it is not GoreTex. I saw a FirstGear mesh jacket reviewed on webBikeWorld also with Hypertex. Obviously a waterproof mesh jacket does not make sense.

I can say that I have had experience with non-GoreTex waterproofing, none of it good, and none of it stayed waterproof for very long. Just because it ends in "Tex" does not mean that it is good waterproofing, despite manufacturer's claims. The off-brand waterproofing simply does not work. Sure, they may shed water when you first try them, but they will fail sooner than you can possibly imagine. Guaranteed. Sometimes "...Tex" just means "fabric-with-a-clever-proprietary-brand-name" and it isn't waterproof at all. Don't waste your money.

The Kathmandu has a removable insulated liner. My advice above still holds true. You don't want a jacket or pants with a removable liner. That is especially true if the removable liner is supposed to be the waterproof layer, which it usually is. Keep in mind that some of your money is going into that cheap-o liner, plus whatever zippers, loops, buttons, and other stuff are needed to attach it. That's money that the manufacturer must take away from the quality of the outer shell and the armor, which are the important components.

I will never buy another jacket or pants with a removable liner. I have owned two sets of gear with removable liners, both from quality manufacturers. One was especially high quality and expensive, but it sucked anyway. Removable liners are a pain-in-the-<fill in the blank> for so many reasons. This is the voice of experience talking.

In addition to my own post above, others have mentioned the Klim Badlands Pro that I wear. It has GoreTex on the outside, and it rated "Guaranteed to Keep You Dry". They mean it, and it works. I have ridden all day through "gully washer" storms and stayed dry.

Forget the jackets with liners. Get better quality jacket and pants, ones that are guaranteed to keep you dry. If they are truly waterproof on the outside, then you can wear the right layers underneath it to suit conditions. Choose your own much better layers instead of the crap that the manufacturers give you. The only advantage that the manufacturer's crappy liners have is that they have matching zippers, loops, buttons, hooks, to attach the darn things. Trust me, that's no advantage at all. If you have one of those liners, you will soon learn to ignore the fancy attachments and not waste your time on them. After that, you will leave them at home and bring your favorite liners that are far better, ... and you will wish you had invested the money in a better outer jacket and pants, with really good armor.

2. FirstGear Heated Gear

FirstGear heated gear is made by Warm and Safe. Warm and Safe makes quality heated gear and "heattrollers". Look at their website to see a lot of choices. The owner is a rider and really knows his stuff. His designs are always innovative in ways that make a real difference. They are frequently copied by the others (including Gerbing). Buy Warm and Safe (or FirstGear). You won't go wrong.

http://www.warmnsafe.com

3. Warmth

My Badlands Pro gear does a good job of keeping me warm without layers under normal riding conditions. When needed, I layer up. For long rides, my base layer "underpants" is LDComfort. In everything but below-freezing weather, I prefer the shorts (but I also wear knee high socks). For very cold weather riding, I wear the LDComfort long johns. Above the waist, I wear whatever is appropriate - LDComfort long sleeve shirt or an LDComfort short sleeve shirt, or lighter shirts for hot weather. All of it is silver-impregnated, which reduces odor.

When needed, I put on the Warm and Safe Jacket liner. It often adds enough warmth that I don't bother to turn it on. As the weather drops into the mid-50s and below, turning it on can generate a lot of heat. I have often ridden in the 30s (F), and more than a few times when the weather is in the low 20s.

One day I rode from Denver to Southern California (1000 miles). I left at 7:00 AM and headed west on I-70. It stayed below freezing for several hours going through the Rockies, reaching down to 22 F at the tunnel and around Vail Pass. That same day it reached 99 F in Mesquite, Nevada. I got home that evening, and was comfortable for the entire ride.

I hope this helps.
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Old 10-03-2016, 09:04 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryMC
John,
Aerostitch is fine, and if I could find a used set, I would snap them up. However, a two piece, Roadcrafter Classic is almost $1,400 new. It's guaranteed forever, and they stand behind their guarantee, but that's a LOT of money I don't have, even with the sale of my stuff.

As to the R1150RT, if there were any for sale around here, I'd seriously consider them. Mostly, out here, are the R1150Rs. I don't want a 'R', I want an 'RT' if I'm going that way.
Gary, the R1150RT I was talking about was the one in your link above. Also, Beech was referring to, I believe, the Roadcrafter Classic one piece to wear over work clothes "30 seconds to put on or remove". That suit less than what you were referring to.

http://www.aerostich.com/suits/one-p...rafter-classic

Good luck Gary, let us know what you end up doing.
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Current Bikes-The Perfect Combination
'15 R12GSAW 'The I-BMW Pussy Bike'
'09 K1300S 'fits me like a glove' with Wilbers
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'04 K1200RS with Ohlins (traded for GSA)
'11 F800R (traded for GSA)
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  #29  
Old 10-04-2016, 08:09 AM
GaryMC GaryMC is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

XMagna,
I've been very fortunate to have the opportunity to, on a daily basis, talk to riders here in the Northwest through the winter months, and of course, 'the rainy season.' I was riding on our Ferry system, and I had the opportunity to see first hand different brands of gear, and talk to the users of such.

Aerostitch alway was highly rated, but there was, out of all the people there I knew and spoke with, one person wearing it, and even his was used.

Obviously, Klim was well represented, but so was Firstgear. Hypertex is built into the outer layer of all FirstGear waterproof products, just like Klim is with Gore Tex. Those people I've spoken with have been riding Firstgear products for years, and have stayed dry and warm. The removeable liner is only for thermal control and does not affect the waterproofness of the garment in any way.

For me, the benefit of having the liners already in the jacket and pants is that, for a large part of this, I will be commuting to and from work. When I get to work, I don't feel like 'undressing and re-dressing' to get ready. I'd just like to be able to take my jacket and pants off and be ready to go. Building up layers that need to be removed or replaced is just not an option I want to get into.

Again, I've talked for several months with people who live in, ride in and operate in the same environmentals that I plan on being in, and Firstgear has always had a stellar reputation among those people.

Yes, I would like to buy Klim, and if I had the available money, I would, along with all the layers that go with it. But, I have a set limit for what I can expect to spend, and Klim products puts me way over that limit.
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Old 10-05-2016, 11:58 AM
md4stone md4stone is offline
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Gary, I'm not seeing a problem with starting with a K1200GT. You have done your homework well, the bike is ideally suited for your intended purpose. As far as too much bike to start with, keep in mind that any motorcycle you start with has the potential to be your last if you don't ride with AWARENESS AND DEFENSIVE CAUTION AT ALL TIMES. Sure, a lighter/smaller bike is "easier" to ride, but most of that is in the 0-10 mph and 10-0 mph when gyroscopic effect is not keeping you upright. Under way, most motorcycles feel at least somewhat the same in general, and actually heavier bikes absorb bumps better than lighter bikes, making them less prone to road "feedback".

I started street bike riding a Harley FX shovel head, an about 700 pound sled. At the time I weighed about 155. I weighed nothing compared to the bike and it let me know it. I came from riding dirt bikes where you can use "body English" to help steer and stay balanced. I soon found out that the Harley wanted me to stay still like a piece of luggage strapped to the bike, using reverse steer (gently push the handgrip on the side you want to turn towards) to initiate lean and turn, rather than try to throw my weight around like it was a 250 lb MX bike lol! When I rode like I was a statue the bike was s-m-o-o-t-h.... When I tried to move seating position the bike reacted in a less favorable way, so all changes of direction became a input to the handlebars, and after learning that riding a heavy bike became a cakewalk. That and watch how far you lean the bike while stationary...just a hair too far and she's goin' over at which point you are going to need some help getting her back upright If you want to eventually be on a full size touring bike you might as well start on one, there is a learning curve no matter what you rode previously.

A K12GT is as good as any bike out there to keep you dry when it rains. The fairing and adjustable windscreen will keep 90% of the water flying past you. You need some good touring-style boots and gauntlet-style gloves, BOTH WITH GORE TEX, and a good 1 or 2 piece rain suit. I have a one-piece Rev-It suit that I can recommend; light, waterproof, and will keep you bone dry. All that is much cheaper than an Aerostitch or any other suit, and the rain suits come on and off in a snap, just stop under an overpass, pull 'em out of the saddle bag and whip 'em on right over your other gear. They come off just as fast. And a balacava for your neck too, don't forget that (like I almost did ;-).

Getting into motorcycling is an expensive proposition for the gear end. Keep your costs down by buying a jacket and pants that are convertible for both summer and winter, get two pair of gloves ( summer and winter), good boots, good full face helmet, and cheaper stuff to keep you dry. I don't know how your summers are in coastal Washington, but coastal CA means riding in a lot of 90 degree + days where you will not want to wear a stifling hot one-piece riding suit like an Aerostitch. And keep in mind that if you want real protection in case you go down, nothing is better than full-on racing leathers with added back and chest armor to compliment the shoulder, elbow, knee, and hip armor. I would put the big money into that before an Aerostitch suit. Besides, who wants to look like a mechanic riding to work

There is no such thing as one-does-it-all when it comes to riding gear. If it does everything it will do everything half-ass. Other than that, it is a process to get the gear you will want to use because you will end up with 3 sets of gear eventually. Summer gear. Winter gear. And spring/fall gear. You will learn this in the long run so get what you think is good now and let it work out as you proceed. I think that's what we all do in one way or another: trial and error.

Good luck with finding your bike and stay safe
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Old 10-05-2016, 12:17 PM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

I've owned a K1200GT since they first came out.

Great bike and with the right seat you can easily log long distances in comfort.

However it isn't a cheap bike to own.

IMO, the biggest issue you'll have is the shocks. If they are still stock they are most certainly worn out.

There are replacement options but again, not cheap and throw in the labor cost if you're not
handy with tools.

I replaced mine with Wilbers which is far and away the best money I've spent. Improves the handling tremendously.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:38 AM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

See below

Last edited by selyab : 10-09-2016 at 11:37 AM. Reason: duplicate
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:34 AM
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Re: Looking for information on the 2006 K1200GT, problems, what to look out for, pre-buy

Hi,
I live on Whidbey Island and commute 70 miles one way using the Clinton-Mukilteo ferry so you plan is basically to duplicate what I am already doing. You will be able to commute into the winter months but at some point it will be difficult to tell if there is ice on the wet roads or on frosty roads on a clear morning. Then you will gambling on a bike commute. The afternoon wont be an issue usually. You will have to drive your car then.

I don't frequent this forum much but today I am looking for information on how to bleed the ABS system on my GT when I saw your post.

I have an 07 GT with about 28k miles on it that I bought from the original owner with about 13k miles on it. I put about 80k miles on all the bikes that I currently own. I really like riding it and can deal with its shortcomings because I own other BMW R bikes. I can depend on those as there is no comparison when it comes to reliability. Their maintenance is easier so the bike never gets pulled out of service for problems while I figure out what to do like the GT does. The GT had a terrible seat which cost $800 to resolve at Rich's Custom seats. The fuel quantity system is unreliable, mine has had at least 3 fuel sensor sticks. There is a mod to correct the tendency of the cam chain to jump off the gears and destroy the engine which costs a few bucks because the engine case bolts have to be replaced since they are designed to stretch when tightened and can only be used once. The ABS system module failed and had to be removed and sent out for repair. The center-stand step for getting it up snapped off in mid lift and the bike (which I had never dropped) fell over (it is heavy) and cost $700 to get the fairing/bags repaired. The bike is very heavy and not easy to ride slowly in a parking lot so the potential for a less experienced rider to drop them is possible. I rarely see one that didn't look like it had dropped in the driveway. The GT looks cheap when you price them but isn't really. You probably aren't aware that the radiator has to be removed the replace the sparkplugs and then you need a pressure pot to properly add coolant to the system when reassembled. I would never keep this bike if it was my only bike. Sorry but this is the grim reality.

Craigslist is full of inexpensive Japanese bikes that were never ridden enough to be worn out and require nothing but oil changes/chain lubes. Get one of those and ride it. It is the only way to find out what you really need with minimum financial commitment. Good luck.
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