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"K13S/R" Technical Q&A K1200S/R Technical Questions/Answers

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  #1  
Old 06-23-2013, 03:41 PM
Zeitreisender Zeitreisender is offline
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Oil Changing on K1300R

Hey,

Doing first self-oil change at 15000km. Have drained tank and removed drain plug(oil filter with proper wrench is next). My question regards 'washer-ring' on said drain plug. As removed, was an 'aluminium-looking' washer.(single-use?) Have purchased several washers from Wunderlich(filter wrench also). However, they're copper, which assume is for single-use? (crush by torque)
Any advice on reusing that 'alum-looking' washer?(prob NOT a good idea?)
Or use a fresh copper washer each change?
Finally, what torque to use on drain nut?

Thanx!
Paul
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  #2  
Old 06-23-2013, 06:57 PM
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Re: Oil Changing on K1300R

18 foot lbs on drain. I too noticed Wonderlich uses copper washers. Common on European diesel engines. Either one is a one time use item. Although the copper ones you can tempt fate and heat to near red and put in water. Softens them again, opposite from steel. Order up a batch of stuff from MAX parts fiche. I generally go chicken and tighten up the aluminum crush washers to 16 or 17 ft/lbs. You can feel it crush, and your thinking threads......
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.aspx
Or oil change kits from beemerboneyard.
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:22 PM
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Re: Oil Changing on K1300R

Hey thanks Beech! I have done that with copper washers for my old Triumph many years ago. (for oil-feed lines to the 'tappets') I believe its called annealing.
Anyways, i kinda thought those washers were one-time-use but wanted a confirmation. Besides it filled out my first posting here.
I'm presently searching for my smaller oil filtre wrench, as that fancy blue anodized cap-type wrench from WonderL does not fit the filter presently on my bike.
It's about to rain again anyways!

Thanx!
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:12 PM
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Re: Oil Changing on K1300R

Be sure the gasket comes out whith the old filter. Yes, annealing. Did not know your level of experience. I rub them on some 400 wet/dry sandpaper to smooth up also. buena suerte.
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:54 PM
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Re: Oil Changing on K1300R

The "gasket" is intended to be aluminum! Use of a copper gasket against the aluminum sump is a potenially serious galvanic corrosion "couple". There's no problem in reusing the old aluminum one a few times. I've done this for years and NEVER had a leak.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:13 AM
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Re: Oil Changing on K1300R

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeitreisender
Any advice on reusing that 'alum-looking' washer?(prob NOT a good idea?)

A new BMW aluminum crush/sealing washer costs $0.60. I buy them 10 at a time. Why would you reuse the old one?
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:23 PM
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Re: Oil Changing on K1300R

Those aluminum crush washers are cheap. MAX parts fiche:
07 11 9 963 252 GASKET RING - A16X20 1 $0.68
Just to clarify, my position, I use new aluminum crush washers each time. I will toss the copper one that came with my magnetic Wunderlich plug (although I have never had trouble with copper units on previous machinery work). And the OP is on target asking details like torque values! Nothing like doing your own work if possible, helps bond with the machine.
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:07 PM
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Re: Oil Changing on K1300R

Well, it is done with success.
I used a copper crush washer, but will change that out next oil change/servicing at 20K.
...good point about that potential galvanic reaction with 2 different metals though!
I just loosened the oil filtre with a car filter wrench and then tapped the Wunderlich filtre cap-type wrench onto the filtre. it served as a 'fancy overpriced filtre handle' only.
The new filter was tightened by hand as per BMW instructions printed on the side.

Thank you ALL! Now i know what's up when i next change oil at 25K. This one only took 4-5 beers. HA!
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:18 PM
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Re: Oil Changing on K1300R

In principle the aluminum should be sacrificed in the galvanic reaction between the copper washer and the aluminum oil pan. However in the absence of a corrosive environment aluminum oxide very quickly forms a protective barrier to the reaction. I suspect this is why this is not a serious problem.

Since we do not ride in the winter on salted roads I can't see this becoming a serious issue otherwise people would be experiencing oil leaks at their drain plug and discover that the gasket surface on the oil pan is seriously pitted.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:28 PM
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Re: Oil Changing on K1300R

I wouldn't reuse an aluminum (or copper, for that matter) crush washer without sanding it smooth with 400-grit sandpaper, like somebody already mentioned. I typically buy them new since they're cheap, but the few times that I didn't have one in hand, sanded it down smooth, and zero issues. I wouldn't use it without sanding since you'd have to torque it a lot harder to overcome the previous indentations and avoid leaks, risking stripping the threads. Or having to redo the job because of a leak. Not worth it. Do the job right, by either installing a new one, or sanding the old one smooth . Good luck.
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