Sloppy Shifter Fix

[ccii42104]

Ok, first let me say I am new at this posting and picture thing so be patient.

What most of us 2005 to 2008 K1200GT,R, and S owners know is the shifting of the gears seems to be a little sloppy. We deal with the clunking and missed shifts, all the while, wishing we could solve this problem without having to buy 2009 model. Well, recently I was at my favorite BMW shop and was looking at a 2009 GT and S. I was poking and pulling on various parts to see what was different from my 2007 GT. I was most curious about the recent claim by BMW that they had “fixed” the sloppy shifting issue. So, I took a real close look at the shifter and noticed it was far more precise in the movement than my 07. Closer inspection reveals the shifter appears to pivot on a bearing and not the plastic bushings that mine does. As you are most aware, our K1200s have a linkage and not a direct connection to the transmission. Therefore, any play in the linkage will be greatly increased the sloppy shifting.

Well armed with this new knowledge, I pulled my shifter off, pushed out the plastic bushings and measured the bore. 14mm exactly. The bolt measures 7.5mm. I surfed around and found a bearing supplier in So Cal called “VXB Ball Bearings” and found sealed 8x14mm bearings. 10 for $19! I replaced the OEM plastic bushing with a stack of 4 bearings and the mod transformed the shifting into a smooth and precise action. I was so impressed I shared this with my K1200S buddy and he was skeptical until he rode my GT around. We then changed out his K1200S shifter too!

Follow along,

Here are the tools you need:



On the S and GT, remove the single fairing bolt (T2) located behind the shifter to allow the fairing to flex down enough to get the Torx driver on the shifter bolt (T40):



Remove the shifter bolt:



Once free, remove the linkage (10mm):



Wipe the shifter down with a rag and remove the bushings. Mine fell out but my buddy’s S required a small screw driver as a punch to push them out:



Clean out the bore with brake cleaner, MEK, or acetone. I lightly scuffed the bore with emery cloth to aid with loctite adhesion. I used Loctite brand, bearing and stud locker (green), but high strength thread locker (red) will work as well. There are very little side to side forces so this will do.

Here are the bearings I bought from VXB:





Check out their site, oh yeah, super fast delivery too!

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7239

You will need to take 2 #8 (I think) stainless washers and bore them out with a 5/16” drill bit. They will rest on both sides of the bearings. They have a smaller OD than the OEM washer and act to allow the free rotation of the bearing. Leave the OEM washer on the bolt.




Ok, now place the shifter in a vice, gently, so the bore is horizontal. Take the OEM shifter bolt with OEM washer, add one #8 washer and four bearings then a #8 washer. Now, lightly coat the bore and outer bearings with loctite. Very little. Slide the bearings into the bore as if you were bolting the shifter back on until the inner most bearing is at the edge of the inner bore of the shifter (side that points to the transmission). I put a nut on the bolt and finger tightened it once I had the bearings in the bore to hold the bearing pack together. Now, to speed up the setting process I uniformly heated the shifter bore area with heat gun to 180 degrees in two heat cycles. Loctite sets in one hour and fully cures in 24 hours. Since I was not in a hurry, I left it in the vice over night for my GT and two hours for my Buddy’s S. He was impatient!




This is too far:


Perfect:



After the bearings are set, simply reinstall the shifter. Torque the shifter to the OEM spec of 19nm. Now on the S we needed to have two #8 washers on the bolt between the shifter and the bracket to ensure the shifter did not rub against the bracket. You will need to adjust it for own application. On my GT only needed one.



Total cost plus CA tax and S&H was, $30 for the bearings (10pk). Another $10 for the new tube of loctite. That’s $20 per bike. Not bad.

As I stated before, please feel free to PM me for details if I did not do this well enough. Also, I live in Cen Cal and would be willing to do the mod for you. (Bring beer money!)

Vince

[CRFJOHN]

Looks great, and great work!!!!! I may have a new project

[darthrider2]

Nice post, looks like a winter project now that the sun is out up here. Pictures were excellent. Thanks

[RFW]

Originally Posted by ccii42104

Loctite sets in one hour and fully cures in 24 hours.

Actually, this depends greatly on what loctite you are using, and the metals it is used with. Typically, it cures much faster.

As an interesting point, being an "anerobic" cure product, Loctite requires the absence of oxygen, and the presence of an "active" metal surface to cure. This is why the stuff lasts forever in the bottle (which is plastic and has air inside), and why iot will not cure on surfaces exposed to air. Curing with, for example, stainless steel bolts takes longer than if bolts (or other metal surface) was made of steel or brass.

Useless fact of the day.

[BMWBuddha]

I LIKE this project! I just ordered the Kit7239 so BillG will have ANOTHER job to do on MY bike! Nice write up...and welcome aboard!

[K-Cord]

That was a treatise! can you give a weekly lesson of that caliber? Well done, thanks.

[Huey2]

Vince,

Do you have a part number for the bearings?

Thanks,

Forrest

[Turbocohen]

Welcome aboard!! This post is going directly to Sticky threads for now!

Nice work bud.

[ccii42104]

Originally Posted by Huey2

Vince,

Do you have a part number for the bearings?

Thanks,

Forrest

Well there are no #s on the bearings. I looked real hard and can't see anything on them like you would on a larger bearing. The VXB part number is Kit7239. Here is the link:

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7239

$19 is hard to beat.

Super fast shipping too!

Vince

[Huey2]

Vince,

I reread your post and found the link. I ordered the bearing kit from them.

Many thanks for a most excellent improvement tip.

Forrest

[scrannel]

FYI...

Got these washers to avoid drilling out the stuff from the Do-it Center...

http://www.bikeman.com/BO1261.html?...aign=GoogleBase

[ccii42104]

Originally Posted by scrannel

FYI...

Got these washers to avoid drilling out the stuff from the Do-it Center...

http://www.bikeman.com/BO1261.html?...aign=GoogleBase

PERFECT!!!!

[Growler]

Ok, I'm not quite "getting" this mod. I checked the shifter on my '08 GT and it has very little side to side movement, so I don't see how tightening it up a little will offer that much benefit. On the other hand, there is too much up and down freeplay. I think shifting would be nicer if that was minimized. Is there any way to do so?

[hgp3]

Originally Posted by ccii42104

Ok, first let me say I am new at this posting and picture thing so be patient.

What most of us 2005 to 2008 K1200GT,R, and S owners know is the shifting of the gears seems to be a little sloppy. We deal with the clunking and missed shifts, all the while, wishing we could solve this problem without having to buy 2009 model. Well, recently I was at my favorite BMW shop and was looking at a 2009 GT and S. I was poking and pulling on various parts to see what was different from my 2007 GT. I was most curious about the recent claim by BMW that they had “fixed” the sloppy shifting issue. So, I took a real close look at the shifter and noticed it was far more precise in the movement than my 07. Closer inspection reveals the shifter appears to pivot on a bearing and not the plastic bushings that mine does. As you are most aware, our K1200s have a linkage and not a direct connection to the transmission. Therefore, any play in the linkage will be greatly increased the sloppy shifting.

Well armed with this new knowledge, I pulled my shifter off, pushed out the plastic bushings and measured the bore. 14mm exactly. The bolt measures 7.5mm. I surfed around and found a bearing supplier in So Cal called “VXB Ball Bearings” and found sealed 8x14mm bearings. 10 for $19! I replaced the OEM plastic bushing with a stack of 4 bearings and the mod transformed the shifting into a smooth and precise action. I was so impressed I shared this with my K1200S buddy and he was skeptical until he rode my GT around. We then changed out his K1200S shifter too!

Follow along,

Here are the tools you need:



On the S and GT, remove the single fairing bolt (T2) located behind the shifter to allow the fairing to flex down enough to get the Torx driver on the shifter bolt (T40):



Remove the shifter bolt:



Once free, remove the linkage (10mm):



Wipe the shifter down with a rag and remove the bushings. Mine fell out but my buddy’s S required a small screw driver as a punch to push them out:



Clean out the bore with brake cleaner, MEK, or acetone. I lightly scuffed the bore with emery cloth to aid with loctite adhesion. I used Loctite brand, bearing and stud locker (green), but high strength thread locker (red) will work as well. There are very little side to side forces so this will do.

Here are the bearings I bought from VXB:





Check out their site, oh yeah, super fast delivery too!

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7239

You will need to take 2 #8 (I think) stainless washers and bore them out with a 5/16” drill bit. They will rest on both sides of the bearings. They have a smaller OD than the OEM washer and act to allow the free rotation of the bearing. Leave the OEM washer on the bolt.




Ok, now place the shifter in a vice, gently, so the bore is horizontal. Take the OEM shifter bolt with OEM washer, add one #8 washer and four bearings then a #8 washer. Now, lightly coat the bore and outer bearings with loctite. Very little. Slide the bearings into the bore as if you were bolting the shifter back on until the inner most bearing is at the edge of the inner bore of the shifter (side that points to the transmission). I put a nut on the bolt and finger tightened it once I had the bearings in the bore to hold the bearing pack together. Now, to speed up the setting process I uniformly heated the shifter bore area with heat gun to 180 degrees in two heat cycles. Loctite sets in one hour and fully cures in 24 hours. Since I was not in a hurry, I left it in the vice over night for my GT and two hours for my Buddy’s S. He was impatient!




This is too far:


Perfect:



After the bearings are set, simply reinstall the shifter. Torque the shifter to the OEM spec of 19nm. Now on the S we needed to have two #8 washers on the bolt between the shifter and the bracket to ensure the shifter did not rub against the bracket. You will need to adjust it for own application. On my GT only needed one.



Total cost plus CA tax and S&H was, $30 for the bearings (10pk). Another $10 for the new tube of loctite. That’s $20 per bike. Not bad.

As I stated before, please feel free to PM me for details if I did not do this well enough. Also, I live in Cen Cal and would be willing to do the mod for you. (Bring beer money!)

Vince

Good Job
The 2009 K1300S has the very same mod on the shifter! At least the one with the quick shifter.
H

[cabnfvr]

I was skeptical on this one, but for 25 dollars (roughly) I figured I'd give it a try.

Two words. It works!

I can't figure out why the stock bushing would bind, but it has to be doing just that. The shifting feels more precise, shorter throw, and overall smoother. One tip though, I installed the bearings and washers only to see that one washer had fallen off sight unseen. Rather than reapply thread locker I just removed the shifter screw, added the washer, and reinstalled. By pure luck I noticed at THCR that the shifter was about to fall off!!!!! I re tightened, then upon returning home reapplied blue loctite AND added a lock nut to the backside. Overkill? Sure, but I sleep better knowing it's never going to come off by itself again.

[Pirate]

Had my shifter done yesterday... I agree with everything Sir Tim said... Well worth the money.. more precise, shorter throw, and overall smoother. Don't expect the clunkiness to dissapear, but otherwise.. I'm impressed..

[Loggiebone]

Geez...now I gotta go look at my rearsets to see if it'll work. But, the HP's seem real solid and I noticed a distinct improvement when I did that change. Trust me, even at the price I got...the bearing are a lot cheaper.

[McFly]

Definitely an inexpensive fix and with so much positive response I ordered my bearings the other day... can't stand not to be part of the "in" crowd.

[Kneedragger]

Originally Posted by Loggiebone

Geez...now I gotta go look at my rearsets to see if it'll work. But, the HP's seem real solid and I noticed a distinct improvement when I did that change. Trust me, even at the price I got...the bearing are a lot cheaper.

I'll be interested in the result, Doug... please let me know what you think of it...

[TexasTwister]

This looks great. I'm in and ordering today.

Thanks for the tip.

[sirbreeze]

Vince,

Thanks for sharing this easy upgrade modification. I really could tell the difference the first time I took the bike for a ride after completing the mod. But now having had the opportunity to put ~1800miles on the bike, clearly this is the best $20-30 I've ever spent. So much easier and more confident shifting. We won't tell BMW, but they lost a sale on the new K1300GT. It's much easier on the wallet to spend $30 rather than $22k.

Thanks again!

sirbreeze

[ccii42104]

No problem at all! I really struggled to post this, but the several buddies really pressed me too! I am glad so many have taken this idea and were able to change their K1200s in a way that increased what they love about these bikes. It is a rather simple mod, and the offer to help anyone out that can make it to Cen Cal for some personal assistance from me still stands. Anyone interested can just PM me! Vince

[TexasTwister]

Got mine done a couple of weeks ago and really like the change in shift precision.

Thanks for bringing it up and showing the way.

PS. The lock nut on the end of the mounting screw is a great way to eliminate the tendency to loosen as was mentioned above somewhere.

Thanks again.

[ccii42104]

Yeah i tried a lock nut, but it interfered with the removal of the oil filter. The OEM setup has locktite, so i just did the same.

[sirbreeze]

I was concerned as well but went the locktite way. As a little insurance, I took a sharpie and marked both the nut and the shifter to check for slippage. Rock solid - no slippage and I've racked up over 2K since the mod. Doubt it ever will.

sirbreeze

[lukensow]

I did this very affordable mod last night. Just rode the bike into work this morning and what a nice difference. Shifting is tighter and the throws are shorter. Nice post.

[RFW]

Originally Posted by lukensow

the throws are shorter.

I think the power of suggestion is a wonderful thing!

I can certainly understand it if you found the shifting was easier and smoother, but there is no way that the throws could possibly be any shorter! The length if the shift throw is only related to the leverage of the system (fulcrum lengths, shift ratchet design, etc.), not to the type of bearing used.

[jcw]

Unless there is so much side to side play in the plastic bushings the pedal will twist on the bolt slightly. You can feel that as being a longer throw.

[lukensow]

Hey Vancouver Bob,

I stand by my post. I am quite confident that the shifting is shorter. I guess that might because the I had at least 1/4" in play with the stock setup. It's shorter.

Go find someones else post to pee on.

[ccii42104]

It seriously tightens up the shifting. I think that transcends to short throws. At it feels like shorter throws.

[cabnfvr]

Originally Posted by RFW

... but there is no way that the throws could possibly be any shorter! .....

Logic would seem to say so ,but yes, the throws are shorter.

Deflection? Might be. Really has to be. Don't know. Don't care. The throws are shorter. The shifts are smoother. The costs was cheap. This modification just works!

[Meese]

Originally Posted by RFW

I think the power of suggestion is a wonderful thing!

Yep.

Originally Posted by RFW

. . . there is no way that the throws could possibly be any shorter!

The pipes are louder. So the bike is faster. I know it's true, so don't bother confusing me with facts and dyno charts.

Having done this mod (and on a particularly sloppy shifter), I can say that the shifts are smoother and much more precise. That doesn't mean that the throws are measurably shorter in the vertical direction, just that the shifting is tightened up and much more exact.

Originally Posted by cabnfvr

The shifts are smoother. The costs was cheap. This modification just works!

Exactly.

[sirbreeze]

Agreed! Not sure if it's a shorter throw, but it sure feels like it. Much smoother and confident shifts. It cured my K1300 envy. But let me tell you what else this inexpensive upgrade mod does for me. The days a brighter, the roads smoother, my bike trips are more carefree, my business is more successful, the women are better looking and they all adore me. Life is great. And it's all due to a $30 mod!

sirbreeze

[lukensow]

I did not realize that using the word "shorter" would get so much response. Let me re-clarify. Prior to putting in this "EXCELLANT" most affordable enhancement, my shifter was very sloppy very loose with some side to side movement

THUS: It was loose a shifter.

Once I put on the enhancement, it was much tighter. All free play eliminated. Therefore it appears to have tightened her up. So I will take back the shorter throw and replace it with, tighter throws, more responsive, cleaner.



Also I dropped my pegs one inch last year and never adjusted my shifter. While putting this enhancement I adjusted the shifter to accommodate the dropping of the pegs 1” Therefore, yes, my throws are now shorter due to adjusting the shifter height. And the shifter is more responsive, tighter, feels better, due to this $25 enhancement.

Note: I also greased the inside of the bearings and that made a nice difference as well.


I also changed to Amsoil 20W-50 synthetic last week. I won’t metion the differences I noticed less I be accused of delusion.


Regards

[cabnfvr]

Originally Posted by lukensow

.....I also changed to Amsoil 20W-50 synthetic last week. I won’t metion the differences I noticed less I be accused of delusion.


Regards

• Is that "real" synthetic or just "so called" synthetic?
• Is it refracted or not?
• Does BMW recommend 20W-50?
• Did you mean delusion or "dillusion"?

[allikanbe]

Originally Posted by lukensow

I also changed to Amsoil 20W-50 synthetic last week. I won’t metion the differences I noticed less I be accused of delusion.


Regards

And, don't mention what brand of tires you use either. Stay away from the O2 sensor, and don't tell us what kind of gas you use.
It will all be much easier.

[Loggiebone]

Hmmm...haven't read this thread for a while. Guess I didn't miss anything!

[lukensow]

Originally Posted by cabnfvr

• Is that "real" synthetic or just "so called" synthetic?
• Is it refracted or not?
• Does BMW recommend 20W-50?
• Did you mean delusion or "dillusion"?

I can not resist this wonderful, most EXCELLANT challenge

• It is not real nor is it so called Synthetic, it’s Wonder Oil. The same stuff Batman uses in his motorcycle.
• Robin told me Batman’s oil is refracted
• Who cares what BMW recommends. They can’t even get the fuel mapping right. They recommend 6000 mile Dino changes. The joker says to never mind them.
• Delusion or maybe illusion..
• And how about them M Pilot Roads 2CT. I swear I am getting 20 mpg more.
• Oh the O2 Sensor, I took it out and the bike now reaches top speed of 200 MPH plus coupled with my Remus.
• I now only use leaded fuel 110 OCTANE. Bike gained 15 more HP.

[allikanbe]

Originally Posted by lukensow

I can not resist this wonderful, most EXCELLANT challenge

• I now only use leaded fuel 110 OCTANE. Bike gained 15 more HP.

My first hijack. I was at the Dragon last weekend and the Chevron station in Robbinsville was selling Dragon Fuel - 110 octane for $7.99 a gallon. And, No, I did not buy any.
OK, back to the regularly scheduled thread.

[NODDY2 KZN]

Hi All

I finally got around to doing the mod but unfortunately have not had a chance to test as we have had a month of rain on the "Sunny South Coast" of Natal, South Africa. The only bearings I could find in SA are 8x14x4mm which fitted perfectly. Could someone please explain to me how you drill out a washer as mine kept turning in the vice and if I tried to tighten the vice the washers were pressed oval. I eventually came right by drilling as much as I could then grinding the hole to size with a mini die grinder with a tapered grinding stone. I also had to use 2 washers on the bracket size to prevent the bearings siezing up when I tightened the screw

Safe biking to all

[ccii42104]

Hey there! Well if you have not drilled them out yet, my first attempts before i got actuall washers that worked was to take a pair of vice grips to hold the washer then put the vice grips in the table vice and i slowly drilled away.

[dantroop]

Got me! Just measured mine and it has about 1/16" upward play in addition to the wobble. I'm in. I'll get the bearings in this week. Thanks for the tutorial.

[ccii42104]

Welcome to the club! there are a few guys out there selling kits now. Might be worth it if you have the dough. personally, you can save quite a bit if you just look at this post and order the parts yourself. PM if you have any questions. Happy New Year!

[trev0006]

some good info here.

Originally Posted by lukensow

I can not resist this wonderful, most EXCELLANT challenge

• It is not real nor is it so called Synthetic, it’s Wonder Oil. The same stuff Batman uses in his motorcycle.
• Robin told me Batman’s oil is refracted
• Who cares what BMW recommends. They can’t even get the fuel mapping right. They recommend 6000 mile Dino changes. The joker says to never mind them.
• Delusion or maybe illusion tire.
• And how about them M Pilot Roads 2CT. I swear I am getting 20 mpg more.
• Oh the O2 Sensor, I took it out and the bike now reaches top speed of 200 MPH plus coupled with my Remus.
• I now only use leaded fuel 110 OCTANE. Bike gained 15 more HP.

[jcw]

Originally Posted by allikanbe

My first hijack. I was at the Dragon last weekend and the Chevron station in Robbinsville was selling Dragon Fuel - 110 octane for $7.99 a gallon. And, No, I did not buy any.
OK, back to the regularly scheduled thread.

You guys laugh.
But compared to the ethanol blended fuel crap around here, after 1/2 tank of 100 octane fuel mixed with premium unleaded from Shell, the bike ran like the old cliche, sewing machine smooth.
Most noticeable on part throttle acceleration. It was ultra smooth. What I imagine the RS guys enjoy.

13:1 compression ratio and high overlap cam and ethanol blended fuel just don't mix that well. There was a time probably just a few years ago when 13:1 was considered race only compression!