How To: Change rear brake pads

[(none)]

Here is my write up for how to change the rear brake pads. The book states you should remove the rear wheel. It is not necessary, but if you have the tools to do it (17mm socket, extension, ratchet and a torque wrench), it doesn't take long to do and does give you more room to work with. I didn't remove the rear wheel for this procedure.

Tool and Supplies needed:
-New brake pads
-Flathead screwdriver (or other pry tool)
-Brake lube
-Small hammer
-Dowel driver
-Rags

Step 1: Get the bike ready.
-Put bike on centerstand
-Remove rear luggage
-Remove rear wheel if you choose to do so
-Gather tools and supplies.

My bike ready to go:


The EBC organic rear pads i chose to use:



Step 2: Remove rear brake pads.
-Using your screwdriver, pop off the plastic cover on the caliper. (The tool i am using is intended to be used on automotive trim pieces i believe)


You should be looking at something like this now:


Note that the 2 pins that hold the pads in extend through the back of the caliper. View from the back.


-Use your driver/drift and hammer to tap the pins out from the back. (yes, i am using a 3/8" entension...)


-The pins should be out like in the picture below. They can now be pulled out the rest of the way with the pliers.


-Set the pins aside.


-Your caliper should now look like this


-Pull off the spring and tab thing left of top of the pads. Set them aside.


-Now we are looking like this. Note that the pads slipped down, not a problem.


-Use your screw driver or prying apparatus to push the pads outwards, pushing the pistons back into the caliper.


-The pads can now be pulled out. This is what mine looked like after 14,702 miles.


-Be sure to pull off the tab thing thats on one of the pads.



Comparing old pads to new pads. My old pads measured at 1mm and 3mm thick (1mm is the wear limit), the new pads are about 6-7mm thick.



Step 3: Prepare new pads and install.
-Put a thin layer of the brake lube on the backing plate and on the sides.


-Also apply some to the pins after wiping them off.


-Slide pads into the caliper, install the rearmost pin, don't forget the tab spring thing that goes between the pads. Don't forget to reinstall the metal tab that does on one pad (note that i forgot it before taking this picture...).


-Install the second pin, make sure the orientation of everything is correct.


-Tap the pins back into place.


-Reinstall plastic cover



And you are done! (mostly)
-Pump the rear brake pedal a few times to push the pistons out a bit.
-The rear brakes won't work 100% yet, they need to be seated. EBC recommends easy braking for the first 250 miles to seat the pads. I usually do about 50 miles easy riding, then do 3 or 4 good, quick slow downs from 55 to 10mph, giving plenty of time for the pads to cool down between runs. After letting them cool completely (over night or such), i ride normal.

Hope this thread helps someone out. The whole process really only takes 20 minutes or so and even less time after doing it once.

[Flyboy]

BRAVO Excellent report and writeup! We'll make this a 'sticky" for future use.

One question..you didn't remove any brake fluid from the rear resevoir to assist in pushing the calipers back some?

[(none)]

Originally Posted by Flyboy

BRAVO Excellent report and writeup! We'll make this a 'sticky" for future use.

One question..you didn't remove any brake fluid from the rear resevoir to assist in pushing the calipers back some?

Thanks, it literally took longer to do the write-up than to swap the pads...

I didn't remove any. The fluid was up the "max" line when i started, it went up of course a little when i pushed the pistons in, but will go back down as they wear. If you brake fluid is already overfilled before you start, then you will need to take some out.

[Rick]

Nice write up, thanks Travis.

[chilei]

Nice job... these threads are of great benefit to the members!

[cookiemonster]

That is a 4 star write-up. Excellent photos!
Thank you for taking the time for this subject.

[K-Cord]

Hey None, that was an amazing bit of instruction. Could you give Clymer some tips. When are you doing the fronts? Thanks and be damn proud of that presentation. We should get you Powerpoint and a salary.

Ken

[Turbocohen]

Thank you for the contribution new guy . Well written and illustrated. Anyone should be able to do the job with confidence having good reference matarial like that available..

T

Sticky posted http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=12464

[(none)]

Thanks guys, glad i could contribute in a small way.

K-Cord, the fronts won't be due for quite a while, fortunently....

Turbocohen, thanks for the sticky, now it feel all special

[Flyboy]

Just R&R mine...there was nothing left on them ...42,388 miles and this is my 3rd rear pads since new

[arise]

I Just did mine and it was easy, but mine doesnt have the tab thing on it! Could it be that the previous owner lost it? Is it mucho important? Should I not Ride it? I Have been riding it without it since i got the bike (5000 miles)
Nice write up by the way, Thank-you

[(none)]

Originally Posted by arise

I Just did mine and it was easy, but mine doesnt have the tab thing on it! Could it be that the previous owner lost it? Is it mucho important? Should I not Ride it? I Have been riding it without it since i got the bike (5000 miles)
Nice write up by the way, Thank-you

No need to worry, all the tab is there for is to give you a reference of how much the pads are wearing (as the pads wear more, the tab comes closer to the other pad. Since you don't have it, you just have to look a little harder to see how much the pads are worn.

[axelzx10]

Originally Posted by (none)

Here is my write up for how to change the rear brake pads.

Thanks for a brilliant piece of info, could'nt for the life of me figure out how the pins came out,and did,nt want to start hitting things willy nilly! Did'nt need to remove the caliper in the end as the rear wheel comes off and leaves the disc and ABS unit behind anyway.Oh well you live and learn, thanks again, AXELZX10.

[axelzx10]

Sorry about the previous reply,its my first time in one of these sites and have'nt got the hang of it yet.

[mike07K1200]

Yup A+ report with great pics. Thanks for taking the time to post it. I am sure it will help lots of folks.

GTLuver, Mike

[GRBTA]

Great job! I am about to change my fronts and rears this is incredibly clear and well written, thanks again!

[tuxdu]

Excellent write up!!!!!! Am do for new pads myself and should be able to do myself per the detailed instructions. Thanks for making it a easy step by step job.

Dale

[mcchoc]

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Exceeding Highway speeds

Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: York UK, England
Posts: 91

Re: Remove rear tire to change pads? WTF?
The Idiot’s Guide To K1200RS Rear Pad Removal, by an idiot.

Put bike on mainstand. Hook a bungee cord around rear brake pedal and pull it over seat and hook the end under gear lever. If it’s not long enough, use two cords end to end. This prevents you from accidentally pushing the pedal and having the brake pistons pop out as far as the disc. Pull off rear calliper’s plastic cover. Go to left hand side of bike with small hammer and drift. ( I know – if you’re used to the way Japanese pad pins pull out with bare fingers, it’s hard to use force on a fragile piece of engineering but it’s the only way as they are a tight fit). Knock the forward pad pin till it’s flush with calliper. Pull it out at right hand side with pliers. Lift out middle short pin which locates spring clip. Knock through and pull out rear pin, being careful to take off spring clip as it becomes free. Assembly is exact reversal of this – i.e. front pin goes in last, after middle pin and spring clip are already fitted. Use copper grease on back of pads and on the pins.__________________

[Sahadafakaya]

None, I just replaced my rear brake pads on my K12RS using your method, and it worked beautifully. I chose to leave the rear wheel on the bike, and it was still easy. I did have to remove the rear caliper bolts to get the outboard pad out after it dropped down, but that made it easy to get out. You're right, about 20mins and I was done with the rears. I also did my front brake pads using my Clymer manual, and even with having to remove the calipers, it was no big deal, either. About an hour and a half to do all the brakes. Funny thing is, Clymer's manual advises you to remove some brake fluid from the reservoirs before doing the job, but the BMW service CD I have did not. I chose not to. After I removed the front calipers, I was able to leave the old pads in and pry them apart to push the pistons back using my trusty 24" Craftsman flat screwdriver. Once I was done, a few pumps of the brake lever & pedal, and each was nice and firm. Thanks for your very clear and concise write-up.